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.223 reloading die question


noidlight

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I have been having some issues with my reloads not running in my rifle lately. I think I solved the issue by seating the size die down a little more in the press (550B).

So here's the question. Before I set the die down further, I took the die apart (it's a Dillon carbide die)and noticed that the expander ball does not look like it is sitting perfectly in the center of the decaping pin when the pin is fully tightened down onto the shaft of the rest of the die. Is this normal for this die?

I'm just wondering if the ball being off set and causing the brass to distort when I resize.

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http://riflemansjournal.blogspot.com/2009/08/reloading-headspace.html

On the expander ball you want the ball as high in the die as you can with out it trying to expand while that part is still in the sizing portion of the die.

in other words the expander chases the neck out of the sizing part of the die. This keeps part of the neck supported at the same time it's getting expanded.

To center the expander: 1st loosen the stem, run a case all the way up, then just start to lower the ram then tighten the expander.

The other thing is to run a rubber washer under the stem tightening nut and let the expander float and find it's own center.

I looked at Dillons site and don't think you could float the expander very well.

the other thing is to get out the craftsman precision lathe, some 1500-3000 sand paper and polish the expander.

http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/24498/catid/4/Dillon_Carbide_Rifle_Dies__Individual___Three_Die_Sets_

If you look at the cutaway of the size die you can see what I mean by getting the expander up high, it still has to pop out the primer though.

Edited by Powder Finger
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A good investment would be a case guage. Unless you use one of these, getting the exact headspace when resizing is hit and miss. If you move the shoulder back several thousands too much, you could get case head seperation. Just drop the resized brass into the guage and if it is flush with the mouth of the guage, you're done.

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A good investment would be a case guage. Unless you use one of these, getting the exact headspace when resizing is hit and miss. If you move the shoulder back several thousands too much, you could get case head seperation. Just drop the resized brass into the guage and if it is flush with the mouth of the guage, you're done.

I just started setting up my 650 to load .223. I'm sure glad I got one of those case gauges. Makes setting up the multipll sizers on the RT1200 toolhead a breeze.

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