DIY Machine cut checkering

[an1913t]

Thanks for the info.

[twodownzero]

Do you have an FFL? I have two guns that I'd love to have you do.

[ANeat]

First, sorry, I used to have an FFL 10 plus years ago and between my full time job and other "hobbies" the part time business never worked out. I eventually just never renewed the FFL when it expired.

Honestly If I had the FFL I probably would not have show all the details of the process

So no I cannot checker anyones frames, I do a few "slide" jobs from time to time. Installing sights or doing lightening cuts but no frames.....

One thing I should add is by all means, before cutting on a frame get a piece of flat stock, something close to the frame thickness, I just used a scrap piece of aluminum...

And practice doing some cuts... try different angles, try different style cutters, I did a lot of cool looking stuff with different ball nosed mills but when it came down to doing my guns I settled with good old fashioned checkering.

Edited February 11, 2011 by ANeat

[jmorris]

A friend of mine once told me, when he worked for a custom maker they used a process a lot like that but used a tap with all but one flute removed to do the same thing.

[ANeat]

You can buy a thread mill that will do that. Some have a replacable insert that cuts several rows of threads at a time.

They are designed for machines that will do helical interopltion. Take say a 20tpi cutter and you can cut any size that the cutter will go into or also cut OD threads without purchasing a tap or die

Something like this, that would work real well for all the horizontal cuts, the vertacals would need to be done one line at a time

Edited February 12, 2011 by ANeat

[Kevin J]

Great post! How did you locate the rotab to spindle location?

[ANeat]

Kevin I have the table centered up in Y axis and the frame mounted on center (in Y axis)

The radius of the front strap is at some odd position in the frame and depending on what you want, that is where the frame will need centered up, Or to put it another way, where the frame is mounted WILL be the centerline for the "new" radius you cut, so make sure its in the right spot.....

Once I have that sorted I can move X left/right to remove whats needed to get the front strap to clean up. I think Ive done several guns and no 2 were the same.

I really need to make a video of some of this, Ill have top start shopping for another 1911

Edited February 17, 2011 by ANeat

[Kevin J]

Cool! Pretty neat set up!

--KJ

[tracker]

Very nice ANeat. It is great to see someone who has "REAL" skills in the machining trade! Skills that are rare with CAM software and solid models these days.

I have used full form solid carbide thread mills and single point tools as you have. Mostly for serrations on extended mag releases for Ruger MKIII that I have made.