Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

spec or part # for RT1200 carbide insert?


Recommended Posts

anyone have the specification handy for the triangular carbide inserts for the RT1200? yes, could take mine off and get a caliper out, but i'm trying to avoid the trial and error of getting adjusted "just right" again. have an order going in to MSC, figured I would pick up a few for the boxer-primed steel case that eventually makes it's way in... thanks in advance!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dillon part #B67-13141

The blade has three cutting sides to it , so each blade will give you two chances to mess up before you are down to one good cutting edge

hey, thanks alamo. I was was just wondering if someone had a spec on the part for ordering it from someplace like J&L or MSC. I'll just take mine off the toolhead and measure the cutter - pretty sure it was 1/4 w/chip grooves on each side but shouldn't be too hard to ID for size and thickness. I don't begrudge Mike Dillon a living, but these things are like $5-$6 each from a tool supply company (even for a US-made part), and I'd like to lay in a 1/2 dozen or so just to have spares.

5701020-11.jpg <--$5.97 from MSC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

buying just one $5 shallow pot magnet at Home Depot to dunk into your bucket of .223 brass could be a cheaper solution....

hmmn...I am wondering if a guy could somehow attach the magnet to the top of the casefeeder if that would catch the steel cased stuff before it dropped down the tube and onto/into the press.

hmmnn...

just thinking out loud there....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi guys, the correct replacement part appears to be MSC part # 78232089

post-959-068977000 1295897008_thumb.jpg

They're $8.70 each in qty less than 10 from MSC, maybe not such a huge savings if you're just trimming .223 but if you're cutting down cases as part of a wildcat forming operation than you'll go through cutters more frequently. I've just got a few in, they install properly in the rt1200 toolholder but I haven't had a chance to try them out. will post back and confirm whether they work. BTW - shadowride, this part has an 11 degree lead so there's actually a "front" and "back" side to it so for better or worse you only have 3 usable sides, not six. If it had no lead, then when you index the cutter down onto the cartridge neck it would impact the flat surface on the bottom of the cutter (and would not trim effectively).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hi guys, the correct replacement part appears to be MSC part # 78232089

post-959-068977000 1295897008_thumb.jpg

They're $8.70 each in qty less than 10 from MSC, maybe not such a huge savings if you're just trimming .223 but if you're cutting down cases as part of a wildcat forming operation than you'll go through cutters more frequently. I've just got a few in, they install properly in the rt1200 toolholder but I haven't had a chance to try them out. will post back and confirm whether they work. BTW - shadowride, this part has an 11 degree lead so there's actually a "front" and "back" side to it so for better or worse you only have 3 usable sides, not six. If it had no lead, then when you index the cutter down onto the cartridge neck it would impact the flat surface on the bottom of the cutter (and would not trim effectively).

Jared how do these work? I wouldn't mind ordering a few myself for replacement parts but wanted to know if you've had a chance to try them out yet.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jared how do these work? I wouldn't mind ordering a few myself for replacement parts but wanted to know if you've had a chance to try them out yet.

pediatric dental visit(s) burned up a lot of shop time this week so haven't had a chance to set up the .223 brass prep toolhead. should have an answer next week, will post back.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's a great idea, I will experiment.

buying just one $5 shallow pot magnet at Home Depot to dunk into your bucket of .223 brass could be a cheaper solution....

hmmn...I am wondering if a guy could somehow attach the magnet to the top of the casefeeder if that would catch the steel cased stuff before it dropped down the tube and onto/into the press.

hmmnn...

just thinking out loud there....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I found this thread just 2 days late, I have 2 coming from Dillon. I've been getting 10k per side trimming 300 Blackout brass. I did somehow chip one side after 500 rounds, and it didn't hit a steel case. I will order some of these to, Big thanks for the link, this forum ROCKS.

hi guys, the correct replacement part appears to be MSC part # 78232089

post-959-068977000 1295897008_thumb.jpg

They're $8.70 each in qty less than 10 from MSC, maybe not such a huge savings if you're just trimming .223 but if you're cutting down cases as part of a wildcat forming operation than you'll go through cutters more frequently. I've just got a few in, they install properly in the rt1200 toolholder but I haven't had a chance to try them out. will post back and confirm whether they work. BTW - shadowride, this part has an 11 degree lead so there's actually a "front" and "back" side to it so for better or worse you only have 3 usable sides, not six. If it had no lead, then when you index the cutter down onto the cartridge neck it would impact the flat surface on the bottom of the cutter (and would not trim effectively).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

set up the brass prep toolhead and tested out the MSC cutter, works perfectly.

Notar - are you making 300 blackout for yourself or selling them commercially?

I've got a lot for myself, and I've made a couple buckets to sell online and to friends.

I canceled my Dillon order, I found an old cutting blade with another side left on it. I ordered some blade from MSC, but they are not quite the same as the Dillon ones. Outside dimensions are close except thickness and hole size.

Dillon's are .102 thick

MSC's are .093

The angled cut look the same, and the hole on the MSC blade is larger. With the design, the blade is still held tight(I think, used blue Loctite too).

I can't get a clean cut from the MSC blades, it's time to put in another order in to Dillon.

The Blackout cases really work the cutting blades, best guess is I get only 20% of the cuts making Blackout brass vs trimming 5.56 brass. With a New Dillon blade, it makes short work of the 1/4 inch removal of brass. When they dull or get chipped, the brass gets folded under, no mater how slow you go, then it's time for a change.

www.BradsWarehouse.com if you need any Blackout brass.

You can get 5 MSC cutters for 2 Dillon ones, but the ones Dillon uses works, I'll save the MSC one's for light trimming, and Dillon's for 300 Blackout making :)

I'll see in the next month how the blackout does with a 175 to 180 bullet in the quest to make major, 762x40 might be the ticket too(I'm looking for dies and a barrel, around 1 apr, Wilson should have them). With it's lower powder charge, the comp's might not work as well until they are de-designed, I think it's akin to back in the day of the 45acp race gun vs the hotter 38 supers of the day.

Edited by Notar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can get 5 MSC cutters for 2 Dillon ones, but the ones Dillon uses works, I'll save the MSC one's for light trimming, and Dillon's for 300 Blackout making :)

ahh, bummer to hear that these's aren't 100% for blackout brass forming - that's where I was really hoping they'd help out. So far I'm just using them for 5.56 (want to get through my 5.56 case processing before switching toolheads) and they're doing fine for that but as you mentioned, that's really just light trimming compared to carving off .4" of case neck. Oh well, was worth a shot. I'll give them a try on blackout forming just because I feel obligated to pee on the electric fence myself, but at least my expectations are already managed about chances for success. thx for the heads up.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The cuts on the forming of the 300 Blackout's are square, but inside the case mouth and outside leave brass shavings, 99% tumble off(to remove the lube). SO they still cut, but I like a very uniform cut, and the Dillon cutters usually leave nothing attached unless I'm moving to quickly.

Maybe with the thicker cutter, the cutting surface is closer to the edge of the brass, and less cutting alone the center line of the case. I'm sure it's cutting gemotery that's leaving frayed ends. I'll post up some pictures tonight.

I'm using my last side on a Dillon cutter, I'll see if it will make it through 12k today, if not I'll use the MSC ones until I get new Dillon ones. I'm not sure why, but after I cut 2k cases, the cut improved(on the MSC blade), but it's not as nice as the Dillon one. I'll also look more on the MSC site to see if they have a thicker Blade. Removing lube and polishing with Stainless steel pins gets rid of all the shavings.

With the MSC blade, it folds the brass over 10 times every 500 cases vs cutting them, you have to be careful not to get a small piece of brass tore off and jam up your motor, SMoke = bad.

I'm still glad I was turned on to these, MSC has lots of goodies :)

Do you have your Trim die yet? I'm not sure if the 300 Whisper ones are sold out, and I don't know the lead time for 300 Blackout ones from C4HD. I had to mill down 1/2 inch off a 1050 toolhead so I could install the vacuum attachment, other wise there was no place for the chips to go, the window was completely obscured by the shell plate.

Edited by Notar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Turns out my trimmer needs some help, I've got excessive run-out, and the unit is on it's way back to Dillon. I've got 2 new trimmers on the way(thanks Brain), and I'll report back.

My trimmer is 10+ years old and has seen lots of action(over500k), they rock, and cutting down the 300 Blk outs slowed it down. I think the alum housing is allowing the bearing to rotate inside, Black Loctite might fix it, but my attachment to the shaft is a little loose too(it's roll pinned). Motor is still strong, so maybe a new attachment shaft, bearing, and a new Milled alum base should fix it. Fingers crossed it's only 1/2 the cost of a new unit, and I'll rebuild as a spare.

I'd bet those MSC blades will work better without them being on a loose shaft,lol. I'll report back after the weekend.

Edited by Notar
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...