Glock 35 malfunctions

[SMSI]

I have a Glock 35 with a lot of miles on it. Was running great for long time until recently. I shoot it mostly in 3-gun.

First, failures to fully go to battery. So I replaced the recoil spring. ISMI 13 lb with 2 coils cut. I thought probalm solved but maybe not. Then almost immediately I was getting lots of light primer strikes, so I replaced the firing pin spring with - I think - a lightening strike reduced power spring. That problem seems solved. No light strike since. But then more failures to properly feed and the last malfunction was a failure to fully eject. the casing ended up cought in the slide, verticle with open end up - like a stove pipe, but all the way down inside the gun - not protruding upwards.

I replaced the mag springs a couple of years ago and I don't think they are the culprit, but maybe. Can't tie this to one mag.

Problems occur mostly about 1/4 to 1/2 thru the mag after about 6 -7 rounds, but this not entirely consistent.

Also, It seemed to run better on minor loads from Atlanta Arms. I have run out of that and am shooting reg power AA .40. Now that I write this, it may be that the problems arose with the ammo change, but it doesn't make sense to me that the light loads would run better.

It has some slide cuts but not a lot of metal taken off.

Suggestions?

[Jman]

Way out of balance by the sounds of it. I would strip off all the non-stock parts and replace them with OEM. Then, one at a time, add your after-market stuff to isolate the issue. Otherwise you're in for some major head scratching.

Good luck.

Jim

[dlee14]

Since the gun runs on minor loads, as opposed to major loads, I am inclined to think that the gun is not at fault. Instead, I am guessing that your major loads might be slightly out of specifications and causing slight chambering irregularities. Check each and every round in a bullet checker to make sure they all drop in and drop out easily. They must insert completely also, not just most of the way. Try this and let us know your results. Also, number the magazines to see if you have a magazine with a weak spring. If all your problems occur with a certain mag. Then it is probably the mag.

The key is that you need to start isolating your problem. Check ammo to eliminate that component. Number mags. Clean and oil gun, etc. Isolate and eliminate issues.

[dlee14]

Also, take a very close look at the extractor and ejector to see if any part is broken or chipped or bent or encrusted with crud.

[mlmiller1]

I'm gonna suggest it is a combination of your rounds & your recoil spring too light. Try a heavier spring & see how it works. If the bullet shape is different than you've been using, it may require a different spring rate. If that doesn't do it, put oem stuff back in & start over. By the way, I replace mag springs yearly on all my mags just to be sure. That is about one match worth of ammo in $$ so it is not a terrible amount to pay for reliability.

MLM

[MarkCO]

I'm gonna suggest it is a combination of your rounds & your recoil spring too light. Try a heavier spring & see how it works. If the bullet shape is different than you've been using, it may require a different spring rate. If that doesn't do it, put oem stuff back in & start over. By the way, I replace mag springs yearly on all my mags just to be sure. That is about one match worth of ammo in $$ so it is not a terrible amount to pay for reliability.

MLM

I agree, ISMI with 2 coils cut shooting major loads probably is too fast of a slide speed. Light loads run fine and full power short cycling means you are over-running the magazine springs. Teh mag springs may be fine, but way too light of a spring for major. What is the bullet profile and COL of the rounds with problems?

[gohuskers]

this is one of the reasons I like to stick with OEM parts, but like JMAN said, replace them with factory and replace 1 at a time with aftermarket parts; this should pinpoint the problem

[aztecdriver]

this is one of the reasons I like to stick with OEM parts, but like JMAN said, replace them with factory and replace 1 at a time with aftermarket parts; this should pinpoint the problem

+1 to the replacement method. I OEM myself - ie, setup the piece of equipment in my own "new" condition, and once I have that set - I can always return to it. If I replace my aftermarket springs with new ones - all the way around, I know where to start looking for problems.

The problem with springs in a glock is that all of them (except maybe the plunger spring) are in a relationship with each other after the trigger bar begins to engage the striker tab going into battery. Have a bad recoil spring - or too light and you will have engaging the trigger pull the gun out of battery. (I didn't believe it until I saw it happen). This could have also contributed to the light strike problem as well. 13 lbs with 2 rings cut off is a pretty light spring for a G35. It might work fine for the load, the recoil, but then once the gun starts into battery and engaging the trigger bar on the slide forward is where you will have issues.

I'm with everyone else. If you can't tie it to the mag, the ammo - I'd put a 15lb ISMI spring in there and see what happens. It's a 7 dollar test - and a good spring to run to boot!

Best of luck

[SMSI]

thanks for the insights. will be a few days before I can report results.