New to Revos

[galt11]

I have a SW 686 in 357 that I just started shooting with more regularity and want to start loading for it. I would convert my 550 to use but didn't know if the dies make any difference. Does 38/357 require a taper or roll crimp? Do you need different dies for 38 vs 357? Can anyone make a suggestion of a brand to look for with the dies? I think I would like to use a Redding comp seating die as this will allow me to change seating depth for different bullets.

Also, can anyone recommend grips for the 686 that are a bit longer than Pachmyer presentation grips. I have a bit bigger hands and can't get a comfortable grip right now.

One last one, can anyone recommend a good revo gunsmith in the northeast? Thanks

Adam

Edited September 14, 2010 by galt11

[AzShooter]

Adam, welcome aboard. You have a great gun to start with and it will last you a very long time. What type of shooting are you getting into? USPSA, ICORE, IDPA?

Buy the Dillon dies. They work great. Use the Redding Seater I like it too. Use a taper crimp die. I use a 9 mm taper crimp on my .38 - 357 loads. The taper crimp takes off the little bulge a roll crimp can give you and helps during fast reloads.

38 and .357 use the same dies. All you need to do is adjust the powder funnel seating die and taper crimp die .1 inch longer on .357 loads.

Try Hogue Big Butt grips if you want a longer grip. Also look at NIL GRIPS. Nil grips has some thicker ones for those of us with big hands. You can also try the Pachmeyer Decelerator. I don't think it's longer but it's thicker and fills my hand better.

You didn't mention holsters: Rescomp, SpeedSec are both very good speed holsters. Safariland makes a real nice holster as well. Lots of choices depending on what you intend to do with your 686.

I don't know if he's in the Northeast but try Mike Carmoney for a teriffic trigger job and fast turn around time. Also, on the West coast try Apex Tactical.

Find and ICORE club near you and get involved with revolver shooting. You won't be disappointed. Check out ICORE.ORG to see the rules and find a club near you.

[MrBorland]

Adam -

Miculek's grip is longer than the Pachmayr's, but shorter fore/aft, as they don't cover the backstrap. Jerry's known to have pretty big mitts, too.

As to gunsmiths in your area, I've read really good things on this very forum about Randy Hollowbush in Topton, PA. Mark Hartshorne, in Kempton (Pinnacle Guns), seems to have a strong following as well. I don't have any personal experience with either, though.

Good luck & enjoy your 686.

Tom

[GMM50]

Hello:

Welcome aboard. It's a great ride.

First pick your game. IDPA, USPSA, ICORE, Steel, Plates.

Each has different minimum power factor and holster requirements. That affects your loads, bullet choices and reloading (crimping style) plans.

Also need to pick a reloading method. Speed loaders or Moon Clips.

Probably we can safely say you'll be using round nose bullets. You can roll crimp or taper crimp the 38/357. I taper crimp.

I've found that the dies you buy are designed 38 and 357. You just need to change the die setup.

Talk to folks at the matches where you are shooting. I'm also in the Northeast and found the revolver shooters to be a great bunch.

Also PM me and I share my gunsmithing experiences.

George

[westczek]

I'm shooting a S&W 686 in USPSA and occasional steel matches. What ever you shoot, game wise, you will likely choose to shoot 38 Special, loaded to minor power factor.

I use moly-coated lead bullets for economy and easy barrel cleaning. If you go that route then you will be tapper crimping, so as not to cut the coating. I'm using a four die Lyman 38/357 set, I don't change the seating depth now that I have got my setup the way I want it.

On grips, I use the Miculek grips and like them. The main benefit is that they are smooth. Some folks find that finger grooves can be a uncomfortable if you don't get just the right grip in action pistol shooting.

For reference, I'm comfortable shooting a Beretta 92 or CZ 75 pistol. When I started shooting revolvers I wanted thicker, but as I started shooting more and manipulating the gun for USPSA I found I wanted thinner again. Its your trip and you really will have to take it to find your answer.

Let us know what sport you're shooting or planning to shoot.

Westczek

[galt11]

I guess my main activities right now are going to be USPSA type shooting with some other things like steel plates and bowling pins thrown in. I would like to get a load also for wadcutters or semi wads with a low recoil so I can use the gun for teaching.

Adam

[Bob DuBois]

Dillon presses are top of the line, but I lean toward Lee Dies. They are on Sale at Midway USA this month and would work great. 38/357 are the same die set, just adjust for the caliber your shooting.

You'll roll crimp the revolver calibers to keep the bullet from jumping in the cylinder during recoil.

Prefer Federal Primers in my revolvers, they take the lightest hit to go off.

I have gone to the S@W X frame Hogue Grip. I prefer rubber but the same number of people prefer wood, you'll just have to feel a set and see what feels good to you. Stop by a gun shop and feel an X frame pistol, the grip will fit L and N frame Smiths.

[westczek]

It's hard to beat the nice holes cut into paper by wadcutters, but I wouldn't mess around with differnt bullet types.

Find an economical round nose, lead or coated. I've not had as much luck with plated. Moly coated or plated cannot be roll crimped, it cuts the coating. Lead can be roll crimped, but with USPSA and practice ammo recoil have never had a problem with bullets coming lose. The tapper crimp should be tight enough.

Get that basic setup and have diffent powder loads setup for sub-minor for teaching and minor for USPSA. For heavy 357 mag loads roll crimps will be more important.

For USPSA and other non-IDPA games you may want to consider a moonclip conversion, It is about $100, moonclips can be pricey, bu if you don't already have six speed loaders and carriers, it might be the way to go.

Westczek

[jasond]

Adam,

You don't need a special die to change the seating depth, they will all do it. Of course round nose is the only way to go for action type stuff, but full wadcutters seated flush with around 2.5 bullseye generally shoot fantastic in any gun, if a bit dirty. You will likely want a seating stem that's special for them, and I don't like that powder for uspsa/icore/etc because of the soot. I'd also be taper crimping the light stuff, and only using federal primers, as have been mentioned. Good luck!