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SX3 Modifications


Mattog22

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I recently got a good deal on a great condition used SX3 that I would like to set up for 3-gun. It has a 26" barrel and I think I'm OK with that length for now. For those of you that are familiar with them what modifications would you guys recommend? My idea was to start off by keeping the 26" barrel and adding a nordic +6 tube which I believe will be just about 1/2" past the barrel. Maybe put a rear sight on it. Anything I need to keep in mind putting this together or using it? All comments welcome.

Thanks

Matt

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I did do a search and read almost all the posts, I was looking for any "must do" modifications and maybe any problems others have run into that I could possible avoid. The search got a little tedious since most threads when someone brings up the SX3 everyone just says get a Benelli.

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I just got an SX2 28". Here's what I did: (I'm just a n00b, so take it with a grain of salt!)

-Mag extension from Nordic. I wanted 8+1 total, YMMV.

-Extended charging handle from Nordic. More leverage, easier to use under pressure.

-Welded lifter. I thought I could get by without it, but the shape of the OEM lifter sucks. Send it to forum member Jeff Cockrum: http://www.c-rums.com/

-Side saddle and slide-lock pack (Oh shit pack), both from Mark Otto. Forum member Chris Patty sells them: http://www.cpwsa.com/ or contact Mark directly if you want something custom. His username here is 'supafly'.

-Bought IC and modified chokes to go along with the full choke.

-Disassembled the entire gun to clean everything. Mine looked like someone used the receiver as an ashtray. I also disassembled the recoil spring assembly in the stock, cleaned it, and greased it.

If my local club starts shooting slug stages, I'll have the vent rib machined for a dovetail and add a 10/22 flip-down rear sight. Until then, I plan on using the bead sight as it is fast enough for me.

Some guys file the loading port area to make it wider. I have small thumbs, I think I'm okay there. YMMV.

If you encounter cycling problems, inspect your piston. Mine was only cycling high-dram loads (AA Super Handicap and AA Super Sport). Turns out the spring inside the piston was cracked. I mailed it off to Winchester, now I'm waiting to see if they'll replace it under warranty. Replacement pistons are about $90-$100 from Brownells. SX2, Browning Gold, SLP, and SX3 pistons are interchangeable.

I run the receiver/bolt of my SX2 wet with 50/50 Mobil 1 and ATF. I put a light coat of that on the exterior of the mag tube too. Like any other shotgun, keep the interior of the magazine and the chamber clean. When cleaning, I run a solvent-soaked pipe cleaner through the gas ports in the barrel ring, as well as a drill bit (by hand!!!) to keep them clear.

The manual is available for download on Winchester's site. They'll mail you one for free too.

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I just got an SX2 28". Here's what I did: (I'm just a n00b, so take it with a grain of salt!)

-Mag extension from Nordic. I wanted 8+1 total, YMMV.

-Extended charging handle from Nordic. More leverage, easier to use under pressure.

-Welded lifter. I thought I could get by without it, but the shape of the OEM lifter sucks. Send it to forum member Jeff Cockrum: http://www.c-rums.com/

-Side saddle and slide-lock pack (Oh shit pack), both from Mark Otto. Forum member Chris Patty sells them: http://www.cpwsa.com/ or contact Mark directly if you want something custom. His username here is 'supafly'.

-Bought IC and modified chokes to go along with the full choke.

-Disassembled the entire gun to clean everything. Mine looked like someone used the receiver as an ashtray. I also disassembled the recoil spring assembly in the stock, cleaned it, and greased it.

If my local club starts shooting slug stages, I'll have the vent rib machined for a dovetail and add a 10/22 flip-down rear sight. Until then, I plan on using the bead sight as it is fast enough for me.

Some guys file the loading port area to make it wider. I have small thumbs, I think I'm okay there. YMMV.

If you encounter cycling problems, inspect your piston. Mine was only cycling high-dram loads (AA Super Handicap and AA Super Sport). Turns out the spring inside the piston was cracked. I mailed it off to Winchester, now I'm waiting to see if they'll replace it under warranty. Replacement pistons are about $90-$100 from Brownells. SX2, Browning Gold, SLP, and SX3 pistons are interchangeable.

I run the receiver/bolt of my SX2 wet with 50/50 Mobil 1 and ATF. I put a light coat of that on the exterior of the mag tube too. Like any other shotgun, keep the interior of the magazine and the chamber clean. When cleaning, I run a solvent-soaked pipe cleaner through the gas ports in the barrel ring, as well as a drill bit (by hand!!!) to keep them clear.

The manual is available for download on Winchester's site. They'll mail you one for free too.

Thank you! That's exactly the info I needed. Thank you for the links as well. If you don't mind do you have a pic showing what yours looks like?

Thanks,

Matt

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before you spend the $ on the rear sight, try shooting some slugs at distance using the rib and bead. works well for a lot of shooters here.

although, the bead on the sx3 is kinda large, if i still had mine i'd recommend removing it and installing a smaller diameter fiber optic sight, along the lines of whats on then SLP. (or what benny puts on Benellis) its what i'm running and i'm not exactly having issues tagging steel out to 100yds.

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Yeah, I noticed that bead is huge. It came with a FO on the rib the previous owner put on. I have been pretty OK with slugs just with the front sight as well so I think I will try that first. I'd rather not cut the rib if I don't have to. Another option I did on an older gun was buy a cheap Hiviz rear sight that attached to the rail. It worked quite well but I know if it caught on anything it will break right off.

What exactly is tig welding the loading gate? Does it just keep it depressed a little and still allow it to move or does it permanantly hold it in place?

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Welding the loading gate gets rid of those evil, thumb-piercing, forks on the front of the lifter and makes the front of the lifter even across the front.

If you allow your thumb to get too parallel to the barrel and actually insert it down the tube a little while reloading, those forks will dig into that sensitive meat on the back of your thumb and cause quite a quandry: "Do I use my other hand to depress the lifter a little so I can remove my thumb, or do I just yank it back out?" Either one is not a desirable option....

For those with little thumbs, it's usually even more likely to happen.

Edited by Braxton1
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No, by welding the lifter, it makes it longer and eliminates the gap between the forks. The lift still functions the same as a stock one, but there's no room to get your finger stuck.

The lifter is actually called the carrier by most of the shotgun manufacturers. ;) It "carries" the shell to the chamber.

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I already got my thumb stuck just practicing so i have to do something. I looked at 00bullit's pics again and now I see what you guys are talking about. This may sound stupid but is an extra piece of metal just added to fill the space and welded in?

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Pics!

sx2-1.jpg

sx2-2.jpg

You'll notice the trigger group is missing - it's off being welded. Other accessories I didn't mention above are a Nordic mag clamp and an Allen butt cuff. Grip cap, mag nut, and mag cap were painted with gloss red Rustoleum enamel. Everyone knows red is the fastest color.

As for welding, I'm not sure how Jeff does it. My guess is that he adds a small piece of metal since that gap is pretty big. Welding it straight across might get the part too hot. But that's just a guess.

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When I weld up a lifter, I cut a piece of 16ga. metal to fit between the prongs and then tig weld it up and grind down and finish it out. Alot of work. More than I wanna do so considering what Jeff charges...I'll just continue to leave it up to him. I'm not sure but I think he adds a piece of metal and brazes it in which would yield much less finish work. Grinding down and smoothing out the weld is tedious. That weld is hard.

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When I weld up a lifter, I cut a piece of 16ga. metal to fit between the prongs and then tig weld it up and grind down and finish it out. Alot of work. More than I wanna do so considering what Jeff charges...I'll just continue to leave it up to him. I'm not sure but I think he adds a piece of metal and brazes it in which would yield much less finish work. Grinding down and smoothing out the weld is tedious. That weld is hard.

Thanks for the info. I already emailed Jeff today about it. I'll definitely be going that route. His price is very reasonable anyway.

Thanks,

Matt

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I run a Win SX3 and have the 26" barrel and a Briley plus 10 mag extension along with an extended charging/bolt handle. The mag ext is even with the end of the barrel. I took my Dremel and smoothed out all of the edges on the fork and have had not problems with the loading gate, but I think welding it is in the future. I have a nylon 6 shot shell holder on the stock and a Tactical Tailor universal sling. It works well. I use the lighter piston with 7 1/2 birdshot and also shoot slugs with it out of an Invector Plus IM extended choke. Great gun.

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I run a Win SX3 and have the 26" barrel and a Briley plus 10 mag extension along with an extended charging/bolt handle. The mag ext is even with the end of the barrel. I took my Dremel and smoothed out all of the edges on the fork and have had not problems with the loading gate, but I think welding it is in the future. I have a nylon 6 shot shell holder on the stock and a Tactical Tailor universal sling. It works well. I use the lighter piston with 7 1/2 birdshot and also shoot slugs with it out of an Invector Plus IM extended choke. Great gun.

I bought this used and it came with the booklet and 3 chokes. Should I have also gotten another piston? I looked online at a few places and no one mentioned it coming with another one.

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I run a Win SX3 and have the 26" barrel and a Briley plus 10 mag extension along with an extended charging/bolt handle. The mag ext is even with the end of the barrel. I took my Dremel and smoothed out all of the edges on the fork and have had not problems with the loading gate, but I think welding it is in the future. I have a nylon 6 shot shell holder on the stock and a Tactical Tailor universal sling. It works well. I use the lighter piston with 7 1/2 birdshot and also shoot slugs with it out of an Invector Plus IM extended choke. Great gun.

I bought this used and it came with the booklet and 3 chokes. Should I have also gotten another piston? I looked online at a few places and no one mentioned it coming with another one.

I have the Flanigun SX3 and it came with the extra piston. I thought they all did, but it looks like this is the only model that does. It is for light 1oz loads.

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According to the Winchester parts catalog, only two pistons are used in the SX3, one for 3" guns and one for 3.5" guns.

Page 8 of the SX3 manual states:

3" — These models have a 3" chamber designed to shoot factory 12 gauge loads including 23⁄4" and 3" (1 oz. to 2 oz.) field loads. (They are NOT designed to shoot the lightest factory 7⁄8 oz. and 1 oz. target loads or any 31⁄2" shells.)

http://media.winchesterguns.com/pdf/om/06_013_sx3.pdf

On the SX2, some models included two pistons, some models included one. On the SX2, the clays gun came with two pistons, one marked 1 1/8 oz loads and lighter, the other 1 1/4 oz and heavier. The practical gun also came with two pistons, one for less than 1 1/4 oz loads and reduced recoil loads, and the other for 1 1/4oz loads and heavier. Other guns (like mine) came with just one piston only, supposedly enough to run 3" magnums down to 7/8 oz target loads.

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My SX3 came with one piston. I just recently bought the Browning sporting clays piston for loads less than 1 1/8oz. I wanted to have a spare and try the lighter piston out. Runs just as good as the one that it came with.

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I also have a Flanigun SX3 with the 28 in barrel, and the only mod that I did was add a Nordic +4 extension. I'm not a gunsmith nor did I stay in a Holiday Inn last night so I'm not going to tinker with it. I find my relatively competitive with this stock shotgun.

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I also have a Flanigun SX3 with the 28 in barrel, and the only mod that I did was add a Nordic +4 extension. I'm not a gunsmith nor did I stay in a Holiday Inn last night so I'm not going to tinker with it. I find my relatively competitive with this stock shotgun.

All of my tinkering has been plug and play, it runs too good to starting messing with it too much. I just put the 26" barrel on and it should work pretty well. Here are a couple of pix.

post-23808-072977400 1282657696_thumb.jp

post-23808-040401500 1282659012_thumb.jp

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That's the +4 extension? I thought the +6 was just barely past flush of the 26" barrel. Thanks for the pics, that's a nice looking gun.

That is the Briley mag ext.to make 10 total in the mag.Works very well, no problems or issues.

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