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Wtk: Size Of Gas Ports Rem 1100


Racer

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AZGunner,

Briley has told me this as a really simple means of cleaning/lubing the shotgun:

1 - Clean all the powder residue off the gas tube and slider bars w/ solvent

2 - Clean the gas ports (the Briley brush works great)

3 - Use brake cleaner (the stuff from the auto parts store...cheaper than Scrubber) liberaly on the trigger guard, etc. Keep away from rubber/plastic parts.

4 - Let dry then apply a gentle coating of Corrosion-X or Rem-Oil (aerosal type)

Rich

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AZGUNNER, I don't know about drilling ports on a 1187, you on your own there.

What uscbigdawg said about cleaning, and don't forget the outside of the mag tube were all the moving parts are. If that area says clean on my gun it never has a problem. Don't put any greasy oily stuff on that area it will gum things up fast. I have been using Remington Dry-Lube, its spray-on stuff that is suposed to have good lubrication properties for high speed moving parts but is competeley dry.

I use a bit of slide glide on the outside of the action bars where they slide in the receiver an a bit on top of the bolt.

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.120 is just about right for most 1100 11-87's. Just lock the barrel in a vise or similar so the ports are up and facing you. Follow the angle of the port and use a good cutting oil on the bit. Do make sure that you DO NOT run the bit in so far that it crosses the barrel and dinks the other side of the barrel on the inside.

I know someone that achieved solid functioning on his remy by only drilling one port out to the next size drill over what fit in the stock port.

As for lubrication, make sure to use a good hi-temp capable oil (Remoil, or a good detergent type motor oil is the best). Keeping the trigger group and action area and gas system well lubed is a definite plus with the remmie's. The gas system will function dry, but I have found it to work much better and carbonize a lot less when lubed. Just make sure to keep the inside of the magazine tube dry.

--

Regards,

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I am in the LUBE IT UP group!!......I use Mobil 1 Sythentic Tranny fluid.....What is great about it that is.....it is thin....adheres....cleans....AND....keeps the gunt in solution...runs an entire match and a lot more.

As for port size.....I've found it to be a real personal thing....so go up incremental and stop when the gun functions with ALL the ammo you are going to use.

Then......do not change ammo!!! I have seen more people having problems at matches mainly due to that fact that they have this "It's just a shotgun, any ammo will do" attitude.

Stay with the ammo you find that runs in the gun and DO NOT CHANGE....EVER!!!

Oh and someone told me to use smileys to make sure everyone knows I'm not offending anyone so here goes :angry:

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Thanks for the tips. I might try one port at a time. I have found that the federal 3 dram low brass with the ridged type hull will just barely function the gun. The hulls are barely ejected. The smooth winchester hulls will not move the bolt.

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I am in the LUBE IT UP group!!......I use Mobil 1 Sythentic Tranny fluid.....What is great about it that is.....it is thin....adheres....cleans....AND....keeps the gunt in solution...runs an entire match and a lot more

Agreed, a good motor oil or Remoil will not carbonize like regular lubes. I use Castrol GTX 20-40 (because I buy it by the case for my truck) and I go 4-500 rounds between cleanings and it mostly just wipes clean. In fact, it is actually easier to clean now that I am using detergent motor oil than it was when I used to run it dry. I have tried both and found that using the right type of lube is the real trick with the 1100-11-87 platform.

Stay with the ammo you find that runs in the gun and DO NOT CHANGE....EVER!!!

Very good point. I bought a metric poop load of the 3 dram shot, and low recoil slugs that function my 11-87 properly and do not plan on ever running anything else through it. Heavier loads will probably run fine, but the gun is going to take a bit more of a hammering if you drill it out enough to function 100% with the light stuff.

Another thing to try is a second rubber gas o-ring on top of the first one, this gets a little better seal, and acts like the activator ring (mentioned elsewhere on the forums) and makes it a little easier to unlock the bolt with lighter loads. It can be removed for shooting heavier loads and put back in again unlike drilling the ports out.

--

Regards,

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Both my new comp master and my old 1100 would not even open the bolt for some loads(not cycle).And finally the old gun stopped cycling anything but high brass slugs.I was considering drastic measures :wacko: when,a buddy asked me how tight does your gas rings fit inside the barrel lug(the part that holds the gas around the rings)?He told me even the new style rings need to have some drag just like the rings of an engine.I still put something else together to try(i won't say what) the next day.i spreaded the outer rings of both my old gun and my new gun and tried them the next day.

Eureaka!They run everything! :lol:

I got some low recoil buck from a friend a while back that would'nt run my guns and got some low recoil STS 2 1/4 dram 7/8oz and yessir they ran them all.

I have'nt tried winchester shells yet,those would'nt run in my old gun ever .With that i took my other stupid thing i wanted to try back home and undid it :)

Got a match this weekend.I think i might still bleed 2 chickens and a goat to appease the malfunction gods <_<

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