Guga Ribas fix for more tension

[G-ManBart]

I know several folks have talked about getting a Guga Ribas holster and finding that it offered very little draw tension, and I'm pretty sure I figured out what's going on.

I had one that had plenty of draw tension on it...cranked all the way up it took quite a bit to draw the gun. Unfortunately, that one stripped the nut that was press fit into the right side, and it separated into two halves GR sent me a replacement, but I immediately found it had almost no draw tension. So, I took both apart and started comparing them. I swapped one part and the new holster was instantly fixed. Here's what's going on:

Okay, the problem is with the plastic locking arm that is on the left side of the holster. That arm pivots on a small pin that is visible on the bottom left of the holster, a touch above the level that the tension knob is at. The tension knob is really a long bolt that has a spring over it, and a washer on the end of the spring. The locking arm is shaped like a fork at the bottom and the end of the bolt goes through that slot. The washer pushes against the side of the lever, where the slot is. When you crank down the tension, it's compressing the spring harder on the washer, so that it pushes on the bottom of the locking arm harder. When you draw the gun, the trigger guard has to push that arm out of the way, so it's fighting the spring tension. The right side arm only has a small spring underneath it to cam it out of the way once the trigger guard is no longer pushing down on it. The right arm really only comes into play when you engage the locking lever....other than that, it's just a pad for the front of the trigger guard.

What's happening is that when they make those locking arms, they run the bottom of the left side arm over a belt sander (or similar) to thin it down a bit. I don't recall if they sand down the right side arm, but it wouldn't make any difference. Someone is simply removing way too much material off the bottom of the left side locking arm. My older holster with good tension was nearly twice as thick at the bottom (left locking lever) as the one that had no tension. Since they've removed too much material from the locking arm, the spring isn't long enough to properly push on it...essentially, it would take a longer spring, or thicker arm. Since they're sanding these arms manually no two are alike and while one might be fine, the next will have no tension at all because they sanded it too much.

What I would do is first separate the two halves of the holster (one allen key bolt on the inside below where the ball joint base attaches to the holster body). You may have to unscrew the tension knob, but I can't recall now. Then you'll see that if you push out the pin that the left locking arm cams on, you can take the arm right out of the body of the holster. I'd build up the bottom of the arm where the washer pushes with some strong epoxy, like JB Weld...maybe add .100" to it and sand it smooth after it cures. Then, put it back together and see if the tension improves.

The one I had that broke had very good tension. The replacement they sent me had very little tension. I tore both apart and that's when I found the difference. So, I just swapped the left side locking arms and sent them the one that had been sanded too much. That was all it took to fix it. Because of that, I'm pretty sure building up the bottom of the left side lever will increase the total tension, and might even make it more linear since springs work best in the middle of their range, not at the extremes where they either do almost nothing, or go solid.

I sort of typed this out quickly (in-laws are in town and didn't want to be rude) but if anything doesn't make sense, or you need more detail, let me know and I'll try to clarify. I could take pictures, but I don't have time right now to tear down one of mine...maybe in a week or so. I think if you take one apart, this will make more sense since you'll be able to look at what I'm talking about. Good luck! R,

Edited May 14, 2010 by G-ManBart

[JThompson]

Keep us informed....

[diehli]

Well done.

[Fireant]

I am still working on mine. I went from little tension to no tension now Back to the drawing board.

[1911jerry]

I took mine apart because it was not holding the gun at all. This is what I found. Where do I get a replacement? Is there one in the USA I can order? Naturally, I am suppose to shoot area 4 next weekend = 6 days from this post......

Super glue did not work.

Thanks

Jerry Snyder

Edited May 15, 2010 by 1911jerry

[1911jerry]

I have been communicating with G-ManBart and followed his suggestion. I am wrapping the broken parts in a cocoon of JB Weld, letting it sit overnight, then shaping in the morning. I will snap a few pics and let you know how it turns out. Should add bulk to the thinning area. The key will making sure the retaining pin floats through the lever.

You guys might look at the same part, it might be a reoccuring problem.

I will be contacting Giga Ribas and obtaining a few extra of these parts.

Jerry

Edited May 16, 2010 by 1911jerry

[Fireant]

Great, mine is broken also, all the way accross and the screws to get it out are stripped.

[G-ManBart]

Great, mine is broken also, all the way accross and the screws to get it out are stripped.

Which screw?

[Fireant]

2 of the three that hold the ball joint thing on the back of the holster.

[G-ManBart]

2 of the three that hold the ball joint thing on the back of the holster.

I think you can leave those in place. I'll have to check something....give me a few

[Fireant]

OK, you are right. I thought those were holding the center piece in. I had to pry it apart. It looks to me like the black plastic piece should have that pin going through the hole in it. Mine is snapped in two right along that hole in the plastic.

[G-ManBart]

OK, you are right. I thought those were holding the center piece in. I had to pry it apart. It looks to me like the black plastic piece should have that pin going through the hole in it. Mine is snapped in two right along that hole in the plastic.

Yeah, when they sand down the arm, they're making it too thin right from right above where the pin passes through down to the end. That's why the spring isn't providing enough tension...it's not long enough once they've thinned the arm. Now, it seems that's leading to failures where the pin passes through. I took one of mine apart and it was a little too thin on one side, but not the other. I've built up around the entire area with JB Weld and will sand it down in a day or so....give a little support. I'll try to find and forward the e-mail for the GR rep I dealt with...he was very helpful. R,

Bart

[G-ManBart]

Here's a picture of a GR holster separated in half. You can see the bronze bushing that rides on the tension spring in the lower part of the right side. That bushing pushes against the gray part on the bottom of the locking arm on the left half. I added some JB Weld, let it sit overnight and then lightly sanded it on a belt sander to leave an even surface. This holster had enough tension, but I wanted to reinforce the area where the cam pin passes through. I didn't add much epoxy, but it seems like there is a bit more tension now when on it's heaviest setting.

[1911jerry]

I did the same thing that G-Man Bart did, but since my fork end was broken off, the repair did not hold.

Instead, I turned the arm over and drilled out a hole

and set in a Dillon 650 spring from my spare parts kit.

I reinstalled the parts and closed it up.

The holster now secures the gun and holds it tight.

Tention can be adjusted by snipping off a coil at a time and reinstalling. Like I said, this is an emergency repair until you get a replacement. I think the design could be improved, I will let you know if I come up with something else.

JS

Edited May 16, 2010 by 1911jerry

[Fireant]

I found some ABS plastic weld and got the two pieces back together last night. I put them back together and I must have something else messed up. I still do not have any tension on it.