Help with draw

[Victor_R]

I decided to video my range time in hopes to see what I need to work on as far as draw and since I don't know the right way I thought I'd come hear and ask for help. I just started shooting my 1911 2 weeks ago and I'm still trying to get use to it. Any advice would be appreciated.

I think I put this in the wrong forum. Please move if so.

Edited April 22, 2010 by Victor R

[Corey]

One thing i did see was you tend to scoop the gun upward after the draw instead of bring it up to your chest and driving it forward. There may be some time savings there. Thats all I have for now, Im sure there will be more help from others to follow

[CHA-LEE]

Bring the gun up to our dominant eye. Don't bring your eye down to the gun. Most of the pause between the gun being fully mounted and breaking the shot is you bobbing your head down to the gun to pick up the sights. Bring the gun up to your eye so you can break the shot as soon as the gun is fully mounted.

As other have said you need to change your "Bowling" swing gun movement during the draw over to more of an "Up then Out" motion. The up then out motion gets the gun on target sooner in the draw than the bowling motion.

Lastly, you are muscling the shit out of the gun trying to control the recoil verses just letting it happen and letting a good quality grip determine the tracking quality of the sights. This over muscling is what causes your groups to look like a shot gun blast on target. You are shooting .20 - .25 splits during the bill drill. At 10 yards your groups shouldn't be bigger than 5 - 6 inches shooting at that speed when you are working with the gun verses against it.

[bkeeler]

I will add follow through on each shot. On the 2 shot/one shot strings you are dropping the gun and moving your head looking for the hit while the shot fires. Call your shots.

[Victor_R]

Awesome guy's. Thank you. I'm glad I asked for help. Will have to practice all that was said. If anyone has anymore to add please do. I need to learn the right way before it get's worse.

[Victor_R]

So I went back to the range today with all the advice that was given and saw some improvement. I know it wont come to me over night but I'm going to put the work in and hopefully get it right. I know I was still doing what I shouldn't but it's hard to break a bad habit. All in all my times got better and better.

Edited April 24, 2010 by Victor R

[CHA-LEE]

Its looking better already

You still have a slight head bob down to the sights and a little bit of bowling motion with the gun. But overall it looks a lot better than before. Your weak hand is pretty inconsistent in finding the gun though. It tends to flail about waiting for the gun to come about half way out. Wasted motion is wasted motion. You can just as easily cross the centerline of your chest to have your weak hand meet up with the gun sooner.

One thing that I would suggest though is to follow through after the shot to require the sights again for a possible second shot. When you shoot one round and then immediately lower the gun that isn't a good habit to get into for stage runs. You will find yourself taking the first shot and then trying to lower the gun. Its vary rare that you would draw and shoot only a single shot from the draw. It might serve you better to fire two shots instead of just one. That way it beats into your head that you need to maintain the sight picture after every shot.

Another thing to think about is what you will experience in a match. It looks like you are practicing for IDPA. In most of the IDPA stages you are engaging targets from behind cover of some sort. Drawing from behind cover while you lean around a wall to engage the target may be more realistic draw practice.

Don't get too hung up on raw time of the draw. An average speed draw that allows you to mount the gun with a solid grip and fire multiple shots quickly and accurately is a lot more useful than a super fast draw that leaves you with a less than optimal grip or recoil control.

Edited April 24, 2010 by CHA-LEE

[BSeevers]

Work on moving/reacting at Be--- not after the beep. I see .10-.20 right there. A lot of people benefit from a drill where you start gun in hand and on target and just practicing shooting at the B---- to learn how to react faster.

I assume you are getting A's?

Try mixing it up a little cause a "grooved" in time is not as real as a cold one.

[Victor_R]

CHA-LEE, Yes It's IDPA that I'm addicted to. March of this year was a full year of shooting IDPA and a handgun for that matter.

@BSeevers, I try to shoot A's.

I can't thank you all enough for the advice. Your help is much appreciated. I will practice with ya'll's advice in mind. Wish I had come here along time ago.

[bkeeler]

Try working on the movements of the draw in dry fire in front of a mirror in slow motion. Once you have the movements down in slow motion start to speed them up a little at a time in dry fire. Once you have that down go to the range for the live fire test. And like I mentioned before make sure to follow through don't drop the gun so quick after the shot!

[BSeevers]

CHA-LEE, Yes It's IDPA that I'm addicted to. March of this year was a full year of shooting IDPA and a handgun for that matter.

@BSeevers, I try to shoot A's.

I can't thank you all enough for the advice. Your help is much appreciated. I will practice with ya'll's advice in mind. Wish I had come here along time ago.

Ok Tough Love

If it ain't a down zero or A, its nothing.

[Victor_R]

CHA-LEE, Yes It's IDPA that I'm addicted to. March of this year was a full year of shooting IDPA and a handgun for that matter.

@BSeevers, I try to shoot A's.

I can't thank you all enough for the advice. Your help is much appreciated. I will practice with ya'll's advice in mind. Wish I had come here along time ago.

Ok Tough Love

If it ain't a down zero or A, its nothing.

That's how I'm looking at it but it will be hard to achieve.