Shot 686 CS1 in IDPA today

[The_Vigilante]

OK, I shot the 686 in my first IDPA match today. Found out I need practice in reloading using the speedloaders and long distance shooting-it was suggested to me I go to single action for the longer shots. The only other problem I had was picking up the front sight with the small narrow adjustable rear sight that came on the pistol when I purchased it. Are there any larger target sights available for this model that would make it easier to pick up the front sight? One other comment: I was shooting 158g LRN in .38 Special using 4g of Bullseye and was surprised at the amount of recoil even with this "light? load!

Edited March 22, 2010 by The_Vigilante

[signsrup]

Congrats on your first match.

Reloading speed will come with practice, but ONLY with practice.

The sight issue will also come around with practice. Practice your draw, and dryfire. With repetition, and muscle memory, the sights should come to the same point every time. Believe it or not, your CS-1 has a narrower than normal front sight from the factory (same result as a wider rear).

I don't shoot bullseye powder, so I don't know the charge spec's, but you may want to look in the "loads" section of the forum here. I don't think 4 grains would be considered a "light" load, that would be more like 3 grains.

[AzShooter]

I've used 4 grains of Bullseye for 20 years. It is a very accurate and consistent load that I know will make minor in all my .38s. It has no trouble knockinng down targets even in a heavy wind. If you want to be real gamy and have a chronograph try 3.8 grains but you won't be able to tell the difference in recoil and may leave a target standing once in a while.

[John Z Sr]

Make up 12-18 dummy rounds, or buy some snap caps, and practice your reloads, that will help quite a bit

[chirpy]

I had Mike Carmoney install the .140 Weigand rear sight blade on my S&W 686 factory base and it seems to work out well for my old eyes as it gives me the same rear sight configuration/picture as the Bo-Mar on my bottom feeders. I had a green fiber optic front installed a while back by another GS. Haven't sighted it in or tried it outdoors yet but looks good so far.

FWIW

Richard

PS: THANKS MIKE!

Edited March 22, 2010 by chirpy

[JWBooth]

Since nobody has commented on the long distance shots--- Like the old timmers used to say " If you are going to shoot a double action revolver, learn to shoot it double action" for all shots. Then people will Know that you are a real revolver shooter.---JWB

[Cherryriver]

To amplify JW's comment, Jeff Cooper used to insist that revolvers only be shot double-action, or, as he preferred, trigger-cocked, because in a difficult moment, one might be unable to decide which mode to use, and create confusion.

Back then, that made a lot of sense and I can't say I even recall thumb-cocking one of my revolvers in the decades since, excepting the rare occasion of goofing around.

My observations as a match range officer have done nothing but convince me the good Colonel was right- I've seen many a revo shooter hesitating, thumb bobbing up and down while trying to settle the sights.

[festus1]

You can always use a small file to widen/deepen the notch. A round rat tail file will give you a U shape notch. For me, getting the rear notch wider so there is a good bit of light on each side of the front sight helps a lot with both precision and speed. I'd get rid of the hammer spur right off - it won't help you in ANY game or defensive situation. The only exception might be an 80 - 100 yd plus hunting shot. Or so says one of my sons.

[Bob DuBois]

+1 on the .140 Weigand, have one on my 625, 610 and 646 with an SDM fiber front. Work Great!