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draw from holster technique


motorcycle_dan

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Managed to find some range time after show storm. Was practice drawing from the holster and switching to weak (left) hand. I think I have the draw from Blade Tech holster figured out. Looking for input on what to do with my left hand when shooting strong hand only? Both hands above ear muffs to start. Bring both down and leave my left hand middle of my chest area. If I shoot weak hand only, I'm having trouble keeping the left hand grip constant. Can't seem to draw strong hand and switch to left consistently. Suggestions? Slow motion practice? What does the strong hand do after the transfer? Make the transfer near my chest then extend weak hand out? How?

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What does the strong hand do after the transfer?

I probably shouldn't offer advice since I have problems with WHO shooting, but when shooting SHO or WHO, I put my spare hand against my chest, over my heart. I do that mainly so that I know where it is and don't shoot it, but I've been told by better shooters than me that doing that makes for a more stable position.

I've been told not to, but I also change my draw for the WHO string. I grab the grip as low as I can (safely) with my strong hand, so that I can place it into my weak hand without a lot of shifting my grip around after the transfer.

I have also learned not to shoot if I get a bad grip. I stop, reset my grip and then proceed normally (or try to). You really have plenty of time and trying to press on with a bad grip usually results in lots of 5s and 0s...

One of my shooting buddies greatly entertained us the first time he shot WHO. He transferred no problem, then he put his strong hand against his chest, then put it in his back pocket, then waved it around a little, then grabbed the gun with it and proceeded to shoot the gun 2 handed. Much pointing and laughing ensued. :roflol:

Another thing I saw a new shooter do last year is funny now, but was scary at the time. The RO (who frequents this board) said something like "This string is weak hand only. WEAK HAND ONLY." The shooter's holster was on the side away from the RO and no one noticed the new shooter turn his gun around backwards in his holster. He then proceeded to cross-draw with his weak hand, just as the RO had instructed him to do. We now make sure that new shooters understand that they are to draw with the strong hand and transfer to the weak hand, and re-emphasize that they are to keep the muzzle downrange at all times, not point it at anyone on the line next to them, etc. (also good to remind shooters of this on the barricades).

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With open gun with extended grip, I try to draw with a very firm grip at the bottom of the grip extension, then bring gun to the left hand which is partially extended toward the target. The strong hand then is placed across chest similar to pledge of allegiance pose, but with clinched fist, but relaxed clinch. I stand at a slight angle with left foor pointed toward right target.

With some very heavy guns, then drawing via the scope may be an option, depending on the scope and the rest of the set up. The advantage of drawing by the scope is that the entire grip is available for the placement of the left hand.

If you are shooting a gun without a scope or extended grip, the the draw is limited to the bottom of the grip with a frim grip with thumb and maybe just a couple fingers. These frees up the upper portion of the grip for the other hand to slide into place.

Note than when shooting one handed the following symptoms occur for most people. If you are too square to the target your groups tend to spread horizontally especially on the target toward the non shooting hand side (left handed right target). This caused by the upper arm bicep beginning to compress or contact the chest. If one is too perpendicular to the target then the groups will tend to spread verically. This is due to the deltoid and other muscles trying to suspend the gun at the proper location up and down.

If you are shooting a revolver, all above applies, and I grip as high as is possible with a firm grip, and NO MATTER WHAT don't stop pulling the trigger once you start. Also, just pull the trigger, not jerk, but just pull it. Working the trigger too slow, gives me a worse result than just pulling it smoothly on through, actually fairly quickly.

Back to the shooting hand anticipating the gun and transfer. That hand for me is the left hand, and it is above my shoulders at about eye level. In fact the draw target center is in line with my line of sight and gun hand. The draw then comes toward that hand. This keeps me looking right at the target, and I pick up the gun in my peripheal vision. As the gun comes to the hand, I then can actually see to make that exchange more efficient and adjust based on what I see while acquiring as good a grip as possible. Since all of this takes place well out in front and in line with the target, then once the exchange is made, I am already preety much on target, since that is where I started all of this.

Hey, this works for me, YRMV.

Good Luck,

MJ

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This is so far above my skill level that I suggest everyone rush out and buy Saul Kirsch's 3GM2. Saul, Max and Angus each have a segment on SHO/WHO. If a picture is worth a thousand words that video segment is worth a hundred thousand.

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I'm stuck with indoor practice for the time being. Until the great frozen tundra we call Ohio begins to thaw. Until then, I will practice what I call "one shot drills." Draw from the holster, shoot one well placed shot, follow-through, take aim and start the squeeze for the second shot. (but don't take it) Re-holster and do it again. I did find out my strong hand middle finger does not like my G34. The knuckle rides just at the sharp edge of the trigger guard/frame junction. Today found my dremel tool with sanding drum. Rounded that sharp edge and removed the upper finger groove that tended to push me into that spot. Then got out the pointy soldering iron and made some polymer stippling on the back and front strap. Pretty happy with the results, no range time but will get some practice time later in the week.

Glad I asked about the draw and transfer to weak hand only. I was doing it sort of Patty-cake style. Sandwich the frame, thumb wrestle for a bit then more or less get a semi consistent grip with weak hand. I tried the low grip draw and think that will be better. Need to run some drills against a timer to confirm.

Wealth of knowledge on this forum. (despite Kyle's best effort) Heheheheheh, I cun say that cuz he's busy shoveling snow like the rest of us.

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I'm stuck with indoor practice for the time being. Until the great frozen tundra we call Ohio begins to thaw. Until then, I will practice what I call "one shot drills." Draw from the holster, shoot one well placed shot, follow-through, take aim and start the squeeze for the second shot. (but don't take it) Re-holster and do it again. I did find out my strong hand middle finger does not like my G34. The knuckle rides just at the sharp edge of the trigger guard/frame junction. Today found my dremel tool with sanding drum. Rounded that sharp edge and removed the upper finger groove that tended to push me into that spot. Then got out the pointy soldering iron and made some polymer stippling on the back and front strap. Pretty happy with the results, no range time but will get some practice time later in the week.

Glad I asked about the draw and transfer to weak hand only. I was doing it sort of Patty-cake style. Sandwich the frame, thumb wrestle for a bit then more or less get a semi consistent grip with weak hand. I tried the low grip draw and think that will be better. Need to run some drills against a timer to confirm.

Wealth of knowledge on this forum. (despite Kyle's best effort) Heheheheheh, I cun say that cuz he's busy shoveling snow like the rest of us.

M/C Dan, You raise a question unintentionally. In Production does dremeling, stippling or whatever the receiver/frame constitute an EXTERNAL MODIFICATION, thus render it no longer PRODUCTION? Yikes, I would think so.

Personally, I don't mind GLOCK triggers, because I treat the trigger movement similar to shooting a revo, just keep the trigger moving for the best result. I want to let the gun shoot instead of making it shoot. The former yields a surprise break, the latter an ambush of the trigger, which is counterproductive to accuracy.

Try positioning the receiving hand somewhat in line with the draw too target (think an archery pose) draw gun, then bring gun to receiving hand. I think you will find this transition quick and precise for the transfer, then quick to fire first shot since you are already pretty much on target for those first three shots. Keep us posted on the rssults.

MJ

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He's OK with the grip mods: "Grips may be replaced or modified to fit the competitor’s hand or to facilitate loading. Checkering, stippling, grip tape and grip sleeves are permitted."

I hear ya, but didn't he say he also took the dremel to the trigger guard? That may take it beyond mods to the grip. Not my call, but I recall a time at BC where someone had squared the front of a 1911 trigger guard and it was a problem. Perhaps I am wrong on this.

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Martin,

I personally think that the triger guard would be part of the grip. if it is below the tang / grip saefty area then it is part of the grip. Especially if it is touched by the hand and not moving back and forth. It is called the "grip frame".

For a more accurate description to help those that could get upitty, I suspect anything below the index finger when said index finger is pointed at the target when firearm is gripped correctly, could fairly be called part of the grip. Anything above that could fairly be called part of the frame. Modifications as per rules would apply.

I am sure that this idea is far from perfect but it would be a fair interpretation for all to easily understand and not stand there with hands on hips and get all pissy about something. :sight:

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I hear ya, but didn't he say he also took the dremel to the trigger guard? That may take it beyond mods to the grip. Not my call, but I recall a time at BC where someone had squared the front of a 1911 trigger guard and it was a problem. Perhaps I am wrong on this.

Yeah, but he is shooting a Glock in the Glock Class, so I'm sure any ruling will be favorable so as to not annoy Glock :)

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I draw the gun the same way every time no matter what. I don't want anything extra to think about.

For the WHO, I draw the gun normally with the left hand coming down to my gut. I loosen my right hand grip so that only the ring finger and pinky are gripping the gun. I slide my left hand in and aquire the grip. My right hand goes over my heart in a fist. I usually have my left foot forward but I have been playing around with shooting weak hand using my normal stance. I believe this has a lot to do with the balance of the gun. My gun doesn't move much so my normal stance is more comfortable. With the Glock I would use the left foot forward technique and lean into it.

As the target turns I focus my attention on the X ring and nothing else. The dot will go where you look and when I notice the dot at the top of the X ring I go for the trigger. The dot will rise in recoil and when it gets to the top of the X ring I go for the trigger again. At 10 and 15 I look through the dot and focus on the X ring. With notch and post I focus on the X ring until the gun comes into view and then focus on the front sight.

Dry fire the transfer until it's one fluid motion. 8 seconds feels like an eternity until you fumble the transfer.

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Dry fire the transfer until it's one fluid motion. 8 seconds feels like an eternity until you fumble the transfer.

Never a truer set of words ever.

My daughter is just starting to get the hang of the Weak Hand transfer, especially for barricade with an Open Gun, which has teh added confusion of gripping the barricade, but the added advantage of not flailing around liek a wind sock in a tornado. We are running her nice and slow at present only a start signal.

Dry run practice is the biggest help you will give yoruself. Just keep at it until the wife get pissy and leaves the room. Then keep going for another 20minutes. :rolleyes:

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