BayouSlide
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Posts posted by BayouSlide
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In trying to keep training/competition (Glock) magazines seperate from my others, I've thought about putting orange basepads on them. Most likely they would be aftermarket (Lone Wolf). Is this legal for SSP or any division in IDPA?
If it makes any difference, the orange basepads I get from Lone Wolf are actually OEM Glock, intended to identify training mags.
Curtis
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Nordic, here. Not sure how it compares with the others but it was lighter IIRC than the DMW and doesn't adversely affect cycling. Style points besides 'cause it matches my Nordic extension
Curtis
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Let's say there is a stage layout where it is an advantage for the competitor to only engage a few targets with 1 round. (Say a revolver shooter comes to the final position and there are 4 targets. The Hit Factor says 2 mikes is better than the reload.) Is there any additional penalty for not putting 2 rounds on each target?
Does it make a difference based on what's in the WSB? For example, here is El Pres' WSB:
"Upon start signal, turn then draw and from Box A engage T1-T3 with only two rounds per target, then perform a mandatory reload and from Box A engage T1-T3 with only two rounds per target."
and here is the WSB for another classifier:
"Upon start signal, from Box A engage only T1-T2 and PP1-PP2..."
In the second one, nowhere does it say how many shots must be fired on each target.
I have a feeling this has probably been discussed in the past, but I couldn't find it. If so, please point me in the correct direction and close this thread.
Thanks,
9.5.1 Unless otherwise specified in the written stage briefing, scoring paper
targets must be shot with a minimum of one round each, with the best
two hits to score. Scoring metal targets must be shot with a minimum
of one round each and must fall to score.
Otherwise, the appropriate penalties per 9.4 apply, including miss penalties worth twice a scoring hit.
You pays your money and makes your choice.
Curtis
Edited: to clarify a point.
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Add me to the long list of people who really like Tipton carbon fiber rods for rifles.
Curtis
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IMHO, a better approach is: issue a warning the first time a shooter uses their weak hand to hold open the flap/strap on their holster & sweeps their hand. Why? Because, the only shooters I have ever seen use such holsters are 1st timers to our sport. Many of them are LEO or Military, and some were actually trained & expected to do it that way.
The situation could be turned into a learning experience, or it could be the last USPSA event they ever attend. Further, if you DQ the first time, you are potentially telling an experienced LEO or .mil soldier: "our fun sport knows more about gun handling than your academy/boot camp." Think how that will go over with them. 2nd occurance is always a DQ.
You raise an excellent point, but I don't feel comfortable in a situation where the the 1st DQ doesn't count. I would prefer warning the newbie ahead of time as soon as I see a holster that raises a potential problem so that they are squared away with the rule before it becomes an issue. And I have done so with newcomers using IWB holsters in the past.
Curtis
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I also shoot a G34 and the benefit of lighter springs is to tune to lighter than factory ammo. For factory ammo just stick with the stock spring.
I don't find that to be true. The benefit of a lighter spring is that much of the recoil we experience, and concomitant muzzle flip, is caused by the rearward rocketing slide overcoming and compressing the recoil spring. Lessen the amount of force necessary to accomplish that, you lessen perceived recoil and muzzle flip. Also when the slide returns forward, if it does so excesssively hard the muzzle has a tendency to bounce up and down like a tuning fork. I call this subsidiary muzzle bounce or SMB. Because with a lighter recoil spring the slide is not slamming into battery nearly as hard, not only do you get less perceived recoil and muzzle flip, you get less SMB, as well. Yes, even with factory ammo.
Duane, that is an interesting explanation that makes sense. Perception, after all, is the basis of our reality, especially vis-a-vis practical shooting.
I do like the feel of heavy 9mm bullets, a mid 130s PF and the lighter springs in my 9mm Glocks: more recoil push, less recoil flip, easier sight acquisition for aging, less than optimal eyes. Now in my 10mms, I go just the opposite direction, i.e. heavier springs with loads that are heavier than the lower velocity 10mm loads that are usually available. FWIW, the stock Glock springs in that case seem to take quite a battering from stout loads. Heavier springs seem to control the slide velocity a little better and feel better to me.
Curtis
Edited: 'cause I hate typos!
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I shoot a Glock 34 in production. I have Warren Tactical sights with a black front. Everything else on my pistol is stock. I am considering going to 13 pound ISMI spring and an aftermarket guide rod. I shoot factory ammo and probably will for a long time.
I also shoot a G34 and the benefit of lighter springs is to tune to lighter than factory ammo. For factory ammo just stick with the stock spring.
In regards to weight, with your set up, any standard length stainless guide rod should be GTG, tungsten becomes iffy, the extended tungsten will definitely put you over limit.
Curtis
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Congrats!
Curtis
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Search is your friend, for sure, but here's something to get you started.
Zero 147 gr JHP and just under 3.3 grains of Titegroup for a PF of around 135-8 out of my G34. COL varies depending on the brass, but my set up goal is for 1.111 - 1.113 with Winchester brass.
Heavier bullets offer more of a "push" recoil than a "snap", making it easier for me to regain the sight picture faster. Some people like the opposite approach. I actually try to set up for a 10-powder-throw average of 3.27-8 grains before starting loading for real on my 550B, so I try to load for just a tad under 3.3 grains. I've found this load chronos very consistently at matches, whether hot and humid or cold and dry, FWIW, and works the gun very well with an ISMI 13# spring. If I go much lighter than this on powder, I find the gun a little sluggish and may risk an occasional stovepipe from a lighter powder drop, so I stick with this.
As always, YMMV, but this works very well for me.
Curtis
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My sincerest condolences to you and your family on your loss.
Sometimes it's not much consolation that our lives have their beginning and they must have an end—but may we all be as fortunate as she was to have our loved ones around us at that passage.
It's easier to find consolation from our beloved ones now being free of their pain—and the realization that they will always remain close to us, because they are inextricably intertwined with the spirit of the person they have helped us become.
Peace.
Curtis
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If I would buy the longer tube, then technicaly I would have an 8+1+1 gun which could put me in Open. I don't know if anyone has been put into Open for this (unless they tried to start a stage with one over the carrier and 8 in the tube).
The USPSA shotgun rules don't specifically address having a shell on the lifter, referring throughout merely to magazine capacity.
In applying the rules, I would have to judge that if you have a eight round magazine tube, you technically only have a 9 round gun—unless you specifically choose to make the effort required to start with one on the lifter, which would then put you in violation of the division requirements...and thus into Open. ["Appendix D 2. Limited/Tactical Division. 9. Ammunition capacity restrictions. Maximum of 9 rounds loaded, Max. of 8 in the case of Rule 8.1.1.2."]
Ghost loading is a nice trick, but takes a little setup. It's handy in non-USPSA matches that have no restrictions on starting number of rounds, but certainly nothing I'd ever want to try to do on the clock during a stage.
Curtis
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Where the question about the 180 come in for reloading a revolver "switch hand" is that the handgun is in front of the shooter, and the determination of breaking the 180 comes from the RO seeing the barrels muzzle(from my experience, and discussion with RO's). Now even if the revolver is held straight vertical the muzzle can often be seen, and the 180 is not broken. If I hold my revolver about chest high the muzzle can possibly be seen WITHOUT the 180 being broken.
I think such emphasis on seeing the muzzle or not seeing the muzzle is misplaced. It's the "90 degree from the backstop and/or angled up range" that is the deciding factor, and that's what I look for. I aim to maintain a viewpoint of the competitor that can best judge that angle...and don't ever want to place myself in a situation where I am looking at a muzzle.
Curtis
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the reason im want to go with the red dot is that at the 3 gun matches here there arent any targets over 100 yrds
I find my EOTech 512 equipped 16" barrel AR ideal for these sort of matches where most of the targets are in the 50-100 yard range or closer: faster and precise enough for the occasional stage out to 125 yards, if need be, with my eyes. Very quick to acquire the sights under any conceivable position, especially weak shoulder and other awkward positions. I like EOTechs, especially considering the initial cost, but like any electronic gizmo they can go belly up. As has been noted, if your vision problems include astigmatism, you will be seeing a very blurry dot.
Where the matches include lots of stages with shots beyond 100 yards, it's definitely time for my Meopta-equipped 1-4X 20" AR.
Both setups work well...but for your sort of matches, I'd prefer the EOTech.
Curtis
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Get a lead cast bullet of the same caliber and drive it into the barrel from the chamber side with a brass rod. It will push the jacket out like a piece of tubing in front of it. This trick worked for me when I posted the same question here a year or so back when I had this problem in my Glock.
I soaked the barrel in solvent ahead of time to lubricate it a little, FWIW.
Good luck!
Curtis
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I have only about 1500 rounds through my G34 and have not made any mods except sights and Vanek classic trigger. What type of accuracy can be expected at 25 yards? So far I know it is my shooting that is the limiting factor.
What is the feeling on match grade barrels, worth it? What kind of accuracy improvement is realistic?
For our game, I'd doubt it would be worth it. My well-worn G34 (over 50K rounds) can generally keep five shots all in the upper A zone from slow fire at 25 yds when I do my part. I reload 3.3 grains of Titegroup with a Zero 147 gr. JHP.
Spend the money on ammo for more practice
Curtis
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Thanks for sharing your insights. My goal is to improve my level of performance from C to B class in 2010. You've emphasized some areas for attention that many of us can benefit from.
Curtis
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Here from the ranks of the apparently self-employed forever, I salute you...and color me green with envy.
Best wishes for the next stage of your life and making the most of it.
Curtis
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Trapr: Get a Lone Wolf 3lb connector if you are going to use stock everything else. They work well and give a crisp reset. Thanks, Eric
What Eric said. The stock Glock 3.5# is rather mushy in comparison.
And if you have the NY spring assemblage, just pull it and replace with a standard Glock OEM spring.
You can get the LW connector and the stock spring from Lone Wolf, with cheap postal shipping rates on small parts
Curtis
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With a Zero 147 gr. JHP, I shoot for an overall length of approx. 1.11 - 1.13 in. FWIW, Atlanta Arms loads a similar load as short at 1.105. Plenty of accuracy in both their and my loads, with perfect feeding. I don't see the need for rounds over 1.17 in. or so, personally. YMMV.
Curtis
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I like the 20 30 coupler as well because it allows you to shoot through the low ports with a good mono pod and you can swap to the 30 for higher ports off the ground.
Pat
Excellent idea!
Curtis
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As if it's necessary, here's another vote of approval for the Firebird coupler. Great piece of gear.
Curtis
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The way it's worded, as long as at least one target cannot be seen from one single view that makes it legal, correct?
That would appear to be the way to do it—in effect, compelling movement/position change of some sort to acquire that target.
Curtis
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so when are we going to know where area 4 is going to be held so i can make plans now.
With the exception of last year, it has normally been finalized rather late in the game compared with the other area championships.
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For me, perhaps more important than where it will be is who are the people who will be running it. A great organizing staff makes for a great match.
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What can I compete in with a G17L?
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
If you plan on shooting USPSA Production, the G17L isn't Production-legal...but neither is a G35 with a caliber-changing barrel. The G34 is definitely your best bet for Production.
Curtis