Gunslinger

I like the CZ well enough, but I like a good G34 a LOT better! I've been using my 34 (stock except for a set of Dawson sights and some grip tape, plus a trigger job that I did myself[2.25Lb w/ no overtravel and VERY crisp letoff)(Total cost of gun is under $750). I guess you should try to shoot both side-by-side if possible because what works for one guy may not work for another. I have to ask about the "Not as accurate w. stock barrel as a Shadow " comment though. What makes you think this??? My G34 is for all practical purposes as accurate as my $3,000 limited gun (Schuemann BBL, etc) and will run rings around ANY other stock-barreled semi-auto pistol I have encountered yet. I use Atlanta Arms and Ammo's 147gr JHP minor load (Loaded to Dave Sevigny/Team Glock's specs) and it will shoot much more accurately than a human can hold it. I had the chance to play with it in a Ransom rest one time and it will produce 1 nice ragged hole/cloverleaf at 20 yards from a Ransom rest. Maybe I just got a good barrel, but if that's the case so did my 2 shootin' buddies who shoot guns & ammo identical to mine with the same results. But, like I said, try both and see what fits YOU best and go with that. Just realize that the CZ will be more expensive and there aren't a whole lot of accessories out there for them (yet).

Static or moving, I still suck at stars!!!!! I'm betting that we'll need LOTS of white pasters for that stage! "High standards"!!! WHY does there always have to be weak-hand stuff? I can't do s@&! with my left hand except hold a beer or a fishin' rod!

I'm not a 'smith, but I really like my Lyman Electronic Gauge. I have also used the RCBS cheapo before with fairly decent results --- but you must be extremely consistent with bar placement, pull speed, etc. or your readings will be all over the place. Free weights are by far the most accurate and consistent, but also the most expensive and a royal pita to work with. BTW, Open 17: From what I'm hearing from the "higher ups" I don't think we'll have to worry about the 3 lb rule going in effect. Most agree that there are some issues with the production rules, but most seem to also feel that this particular rule would only adversely effect striker-fired guns (Glock, XD) and would be difficult to fairly enforce due to repeatability issues.

If you like a REALLY big thumb pad (plus shields so your thumb doesn't ride against the slide) take a look at a Swenson safety. I use them on my limited and 2 SS guns. I absolutely love 'em, but apparently some don't like the shields. I know you can get them at Brownells, but I'm not sure where else.

I got to play around with one the other day at the range. There is not a radical difference in the grip, although it is somewhat thinner( no where near as thin as the standard G17/22/34/etc. though). It also has an ambidextrous mag release if that's important to you. The mag issue alone is enough to keep me away. I kind of feel that the G21SF is a solution in search of a problem. I've shot G21's and G20's for many years and they've always felt great to me, but I have large hands so the grip fits my hand well. I suppose the 21SF may have some appeal to left-handed shooters, but if you're not a south-paw I wouldn't bother with one unless you just really feel like spending some money on something other than practice ammo. Just my $.02 worth.

That's the direction I'm starting to lean in. Vanek says that they average a 1.50 lb trigger on the website. I'll gladly pay a little extra and deal with shipping my G34 if I know I'll get one in that general range.

OK, next question (and probably my last on this topic) --- What is the ACTUAL trigger pull weight ya'll are getting with the drop-in kits??? Vanek states that it will be between 1.10 and 2.80 pounds. That is a HUGE spread and doesn't really tell me anything! A monkey with a dremel tool and some semichrome polish can get a 2.6 to 3 pound trigger in a G34 for free. Add in $25 and you can get the adjustable overrtravel stop or a Ghost rocket connector. If I can get an honest 2 lb (or under) trigger from the kit, then I'll order one. If not, I'll just stick with doing my own triggers (although I would really like to see exactly what modifications they are making to the trigger bar!).

Sorry about that John! I didn't realize that I hadn't put my real name anywhere until a few days ago, when I finally added it. BTW: Do ya'll know if the GA State match has filled up yet? Boris told me he thought that they were about full and were not going to accept any more entries. I just wanted to check for a shootin'buddy who is habitually late in turning in his entry forms and asked me about it the other day.

Good article Mark! I printed that one to keep on file for future reference. I ended up stopping by David's Gun Room on Friday and getting Rusty to take care of it. I took my newest toy out shooting on Saturday and ran 300 rounds through it with absolutely no problems. I'm EXTREMELY happy with it since it's my first time making significant modifications/upgrades to a 1911 (I just paid Rusty in the past if it was anything more than blending a magwell or installing "drop-in" parts) and it's working so well. Plus, it looks damned good if I do say so myself (almost a single stack twin of my P-16 that Rusty built for me back in '97) Now if I can just find easy access to some machining equipment.......

If it'll ignite CCI's it'll light up anything!!!! I agree about the 2% comment. That's why I went back to a stock striker spring instead of a Wolff reduced power (4#) spring. Even 1 light strike per 100 is unacceptable and can totally blow a stage, if not the whole match!!

Well, I just completed my first full 1911 trigger job --- and I'm EXTREMELY happy with the results. I chose to just use the factory Kimber hammer, sear, and disconnector but I did install an ISMI 17 lb MS and I tuned the sear spring per Brownell's instructions. I also stoned and polished the engagement surfaces of the factory parts. I ended up with a very crisp 2.8 lb trigger with little take-up and no discernible over-travel. I ran all of the usual safety checks and it easily passed them all!!! I also went ahead and fitted an Ed Brown maxiwell and an Ed Brown "memory pad" beavertail, and a set of Swenson ambi safeties(and beveled/blended everything where there are no noticable seams and mirror-polished the interior of the magwell and the guns grip[inside]). Now I'll take her to the range tomorrow and give her a REAL test --- assuming that I can get this damned new Brazo's fiber optic front sight drifted in! I thought I'd never get the factory sight out of the dovetail, and I had to quit installing / beating on the new one because it's a little past 1:00 am and my daughter was getting quite ticked off at me hammering in the basement Many thanks to ya'll for steering me in the right direction on the sear spring issue!!! I did exactly what the Brownell's article said and I got the results that they said I would --- now THAT doesn't happen too often these days!!!!

Just my $.02 worth.....I avoid buffs like the plague!!! I haven't found one yet that won't disintegrate in less rounds than I'll shoot in a match (No smart comments about me having to take too many shots !!!). Other than for shortening the "stroke" of the slide, I see no purpose for them. In competition we are not running ammo so hot that there should be a frame battering problem. Plus I have had them come apart and just really make a mess of things --- those little pieces of polymer will get into the damndest places !!!

+1 for CDNN. You have to keep an eye on their site because stuff tends to disappear rather quickly. I've purchased close to 100 Glock mags from them over the years and I've NEVER had a problem with any of them , new or "used" (most of the "used" ones are as good as new, but they sat in some LEO's mag pouch for a while so they might show a little light scuffing -- but functionally as good as new, and at under $10 each you can't go wrong!!!) Most of their "used" mags were actually more like display models and appear to have never been loaded or used before.

Thanks!!!!! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- OK, I looked at the site and it all sounds good, but have any of you had any light-strike issues with the drop-in kit??? Do you have to use only Federal primers?? I ask because I tweaked my G34 trigger myself and was able to get it down to a very nice 2.25 lb w/ minimal overtravel, but I began getting an occassional light strike (maybe 1 or 2 out of a hundred rounds) with winchester primers, so I had to go back to a stock striker spring which put me up to a 3 lb trigger (which still doesn't suck, but "lighter is better" as long as it is 110% reliable.

OK, ya'll have got my attention on this one. Just where can I get a Vanek trigger (ie. link )??? Also, how does it compare to the CGR F1 trigger job?????????