Heggis

Couple of different speed from few months ago... http://heggis.kuvat.fi/kuvat/Guns/Browning%20Buck%20Mark/buckmark_speeds.jpg/full I'll propably do another speedtest in summertemps...

A .25 brush is great for cleaning the chamber. And that needs to be done every now and then. There are couple of places that is always good to check. - chamber is clean (the plop test) - sight/rail screws are tightened - Magazines follower is clean (yeah even it accumulates quite a bit of dirt in the frontside) - Firingpin "hole" - under the extractor is clean (well the whole breechface) - Barrelramp clean - check that crud hasn't build up in the front part of the recoilspring rod. This one place that easily doesn't get cleaned. - Use oil sparingly, no need to drench it in oil... Oil+crud is major jammer. Some ammo just don't work. That's a reality They use very different powders. They might have the same velocitys but the burnrate is a lot different. Some ammo are clearly designed for rifles and some for pistols. I have found CCI std to work best for training on my gun. For match ammo, stingers or lapua. But this varies on every gun. And some ammo are reaaaally dirty. I can shoot 7k of cci std with pretty much no troubles but shoot 300 rounds of SK "magazine" ammo and my BM will stop working. Couple of different ammo put through chrono

A guy called Rusty22 on rimfirecentral makes triggers and extended magrelease/sliderelease/safety for the Buckmark. You can see some of his work at http://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=279931 Just surf all of the 4 pages... And the plastic toprail is in the camper model, rest should have metal ones. If I'm not mistaken, there are so many different models I'm biassed but I like the way Buckmarks feel and point compared to Rugers. But that's just me, got 2 buckmarks. Both Buckmark and Ruger are good and reliable guns, can't go wrong with either one of them. Oh and Ultimate Clip Loader is a must for ruger&buckmark. No one wants to spend time filling mags when you can be shooting

The empty space is where the safety used to be... It intefered with the grip so off it came Eventhough the original grip of the Contour is pretty good. Putting griptape is never a bad thing. Also with the griptape I got the grip a bit fatter and made it more 2011-like so it's easier to point. Internal parts have been modiefied quite heavily. Hammer has lost some weight (about 20%), mainspring has been cut lighter, lighter mainspring quiderod from aluminium instead of original metal. Sear and hammer contact points have been polished and angle changed/shortened. Sear spring has been "flipped" to reduce pull. After the mods triggerpull is little under 2 pounds. Prolly could go lower but I like it like that. Guess which one is original sear The amount of crossing on the contactpoints has been reduced to about 1/3 of the original. There is still some creep in the trigger which is caused by the sear "twisting" on the searpin when it's pulled by the disconnector from the right side. Need to come up with some kind of solution for it... I quess that's all the mods I now have on the gun... More coming later

Where to start... The magholders are crspeed and the spacer is 14.2mm (0.561") piece of nylon that I found from work. Basically I just cut it to appropriate size, beveled one corner with dremel and drilled and tapped for a attachment bolt. I have a 2011 too so I'm using its original spacer there too. Now if I need to switch to .22fun I just add those spacers on the outside and I'm good to go. The compensator was made of aluminium (can't remember what aluminium) by a friend of mine. It has 4mm ports which worked the best (we tried 3, 4, 5 and 6mm ports). Okay the first 2 ports are the ones that actually do something but for appearance sake it was made bigger. The comp is locked in place by the rail so it doesn't rotate open. Here's a video of the comp when using cci stingers. Pretty flat even for a .22. The trigger is a diy model filed from aluminium. I wanted a straight trigger instead of the original heavily curved one. This allowed me to make pre and overtravel adjustment for it too. Whole trigger movement measured from the lowest part of the trigger is about 1.1mm and where the finger is it's about 0.6mm. I need to work on a gen53 trigger that has an pretravel adjustment that can be adjusted witho ut taking the gun apart. For the extended mag release I just drilled and tapped the original magrelease, put a 6mm diameter aluminium tube for and extensionspacer, took a 2011 magreleasebutton and put a longer attachment screw. Picture of the trigger and pretravel adjustment block and how it sits in the gun. It is held in place by the barrel when it's tightened in place.

My Buckmark Contour with more modified parts than original ones And it's not even finished yet, need a magwell and a slideracker atleast... And ofcourse the trigger has to be adjustable

Well they say personal hygiene is important... The spacers are made of nylon. Slick and durable. Got some leftover pieces from work

If you can't get it from the shops, there's always DIY Didn't bother to finish the spacers... maybe later.

Nothing wrong with some .22 fun

148 pictures of pistol match online... http://www.perfect-s.net/galleria/thumbnails.php?album=31 Went with more pictures less quality to get as many shooters as I could get. Hope you like the pics. Hope my bandwith is sufficient If somebody wants bigger pictures for publications or something like that contact me and I'll provide a bigger resolution picture. And if someone wants his/her picture off just give me a word... - Henri Munck Edit: Here's a link to a zip file with all the pictures so no need to click 148 times http://rekyyli.pp.fi/SSG_Summer_Match_2007.zip

Pictures coming online "soon". Took 939 pictures and it takes a while to process them all...

Try asking from the factory, they have pretty good service http://www.cz-usa.com/products_dan_wesson.php

I was wondering why the rear screw came loose after last trip to the range... http://www.perfect-s.net/galleria/albums/u...055-01_1000.jpg :(

Well im working on a new trigger too. Plan is to get pre- and overtravel screws too. But homesmithing again so it takes time. I'm going for a pretty straight trigger. From what I've read reshaping is not possible. Atleast so that it looks good. It is possible to put an insert to the trigger. My plan: http://www.perfect-s.net/kuva/buckmark/IMG_4037-01e_800.jpg Small lump of brass http://www.perfect-s.net/kuva/buckmark/IMG_4040-01_800.jpg Now where is my dremel again...

What model of Buckmark are you talking about? I've got a Buckmark Plus with a 800g triggerpull. This was done homesmithing by turning the searspring around and bending it a bit. No need to touch the mainspring or engagement surfaces. The mainspring effects mainly how hard the hammer hits, doesn't effect that much on the triggerpull. Few pictures on how my sear spring is in place and how it looks like. http://www.perfect-s.net/kuva/buckmark/IMG_4055-01_1000.jpg http://www.perfect-s.net/kuva/buckmark/IMG_4056-01_1000.jpg http://www.perfect-s.net/kuva/buckmark/IMG_4058-01_1000.jpg http://www.perfect-s.net/kuva/buckmark/IMG_4062-01_1000.jpg http://www.perfect-s.net/kuva/buckmark/IMG_4063-01_1000.jpg

Bought few months ago an used SVI (was about 10k shot). I've been shooting an USP Expert .40 before so this is a lot different than I'm used to I got used to seing the Expert sights go up and down, but my dum head closes my eyes when I'm shooting with the SVI. I guess it's the pressure from the ports and comp. Oh well, need to shoot more Oh yeah the pictures... General picture (link to bigbig picture) The holes (link to bigbig picture) Sight (link to bigbig picture) Grip (link to bigbig picture)