Revopop

We did it once at a local match, but we ended with the shotgun. It was a 20ga. pistol-gripped pump with buckshot, and you shot it point blank at the -0 section twice. The first guy who shot it blew out the whole section of the target. After that, we just left the center out and assumed that everybody hit it if there weren't any other holes in other zones!

I've been shooting USPSA for about 2 years and dabbled in IDPA, and now I've found a local IDPA club that I really like and plan to go regularly. The thought occurred to me to use a different gun from month to month to sharpen my skills with all of them. I like that the IDPA divisions and mag capacity limitations allow for a much wider range of guns to be competitive. I also like that there is a separate division for Moonclipped revolvers. The last time I checked, I only know one person outside of USPSA shooters who have a moonclipped revolver, and he's a rabid S&W collector. The first one I went to there was last month, and I shot the Wilson KZ45 that I shoot in USPSA L10. This month I shot my nearly stock Glock 35 that I used to use in USPSA Limited. I think the next one I'll use will be my girlfriend's BHP, (it's a hot range so the mag disconnect and "hammer down, holster" is a non-issue), then after that, SIG 225, and then a 3-inch S&W Model 64 which should be off layaway by then.

I love this story. When my girlfriend and I were looking for a 9mm pistol for her, I had a guy at one shop show her a Kimber Target II in .40 because they didn't have a 9mm in stock and that one was the closest. He picked it up and said, "That's a .40, that might be a little big for you." Little did he know, her dad is a gun dealer in another state and self-described "recoil junkie". Aside from the .22s she started shooting when she was 6 years old, she hadn't even shot a handgun smaller than a .45ACP before she met me, and in fact has a lot of experience shooting his handcannons, including numerous .44 magnums and even a .45-70 contender. The very first time I shot with her, she picked up my Glock 35 (which she'd never shot before) and obliterated the X in the perfect center of the target. Anytime I think about doing something she'll be mad about, I remember that.

I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir on this forum, but here goes. I shoot a Wilson KZ45 in USPSA L10 and IDPA CDP. It has a polymer frame. It has an external extractor. It has double stack mags. It has a full length guide rod. It has a beavertail grip safety. It has an extended thumb safety. Guess what? It shoots great! This rant was primarily sparked by a user on another forum, and this guy just galls me. I just don't understand why improvements to a classic design are so horrible. If you don't like the way a beavertail grip safety or a polymer frame looks, so be it, you're entitled to your aesthetic opinion, but don't tell someone that a Wilson 1911 is crap because it has a Swartz safety instead of the series 70. I'll take the Pepsi challenge and put my beat-up Wilson's trigger against any overpriced Colt Series 70 Gold Cup's trigger any day. And don't tell me that a single stack mag reloads as fast as a tapered double stack mag into a flared wide body mag well when you've never even shot any kind of action pistol match. Another thing I hate about these people is how they complain about how MIM or cast parts are junk, usually not knowing what their own 1911s are made out of or ever having seen a MIM part break outside of the internet, or being able to explain why Todd Jarrett and many others can shoot tens of thousand of rounds through their cast-frame Paras without a hiccup. The thing that gets me the most, though, is attacking the FLGR. This seems to be the whipping boy lately, and I don't understand why because it's such a trivial part. Again, if it's not your cup of tea, that's OK, but that's how my gun came. It also had a plastic standard guide rod and plug. Supposedly it's easier to take apart with the standard guide rod, but the bushing fits so tightly that I still had to use a bushing wrench anyway, so why not use the metal piece instead of the cheap plastic one? And what do you care if it's harder for me to take apart my own gun? (which it isn't) Bottom line, don't say I'm stupid and ignorant because I have a 1911 that doesn't fit your extremely narrow definition of what it should be, even though it's an extremely well-built, accurate, reliable pistol that I shoot really well. That came out a little angrier than i thought it would be, but I stand behind all my statements.

Well, I was figuring out the costs today, and I think if it's still in the store on Friday I'm going to go for it. I spoke to the 'smith today, and his low prices made the decision for me. He said $75 for the trigger job, and I know he does a great job from shooting my buddy's 14.45 he worked over, about $50+labor for replacement parts. He recommended Ed Brown for the replacement small parts. Sign me up!

With regard to the sights, I don't know what brand I want. Basically, I don't have any major brand loyalty, but I'd like to go with whatever is easiest (read: cheapest) for my gunsmith to install. I have Novak red FO front/fixed black rear on my Glock now, and I really like that type of setup.

Yes, it is the older model without the beavertail grip safety. It's like the Commander style grip safety and round hammer. I assume that this means it's old enough that it doesn't have the PXT. I think the only reason why it's so cheap is because they've had a NIB one just like it and a few other Paras in stock for at least a year and a half. A hi-cap .40 1911 is kind of a niche gun, not real popular with most shooters. Also, the vast majority of customers at this shop are either good ol' boy hunters or hippie backpackers. They don't move a whole lot of handguns.

I went to the gunshop today, and they have a used Para P16.40 that's in great shape for $360. It's as basic as they come. I'm thinking that this would be a good base gun for a great Limited blaster. I now shoot a Wilson KZ45 in L10 with a Wilson Leather Tactical Assault holster, and I do reasonably well with it, but there are inescapable limits to this gun, so I've been keeping my eyes peeled for a Para at a good price. Here's what I've thought of so far: 1. Sights--probably FO red front, fixed black rear. 2. Trigger work, and replacement of parts if necessary. 3. Extended ambi safety. 4. Extended slide release lever. 5. Magwell--probably Dawson Ice. 6. Larger mag release button. 7. Grips--has wraparound Hogues, and they don't work for my tiny girly hands. 8. Beavertail grip safety--I just can't have a 1911 without one. 9. Match barrel, bushing, and guide rod if necessary. 10. Mags, basepads. 11. Belt, holster, and pouches--leaning towards CRSpeed for versatility's sake. My local USPSA club has a gunsmith who's a Para specialist, so I have a good source for custom work. I plan to do this in increments, probably starting with a belt rig, mags, etc. I'm just wondering exactly what I need to make this a top-notch setup.

I'm not saying don't get the Dillon. But if you don't have anywhere to put a solid reloading bench (as both I and the original poster don't), you're not going to be able to have a Dillon or any other bench-mounted press. The hand press certainly has a lot of disadvantages, but for all its drawbacks, it fits in a box that goes in the closet. For me, it was handpress, don't reload, or start shopping for a new apartment. I went with the most logical choice.

It's a valid point, but if it's better and I already have plenty of it, why not use it? I did, but isn't the data different for a lead bullet than a plated bullet? The max load listed for a 148gr. LWC is 3.5gr. That's a huge difference.

That's what I was thinking, but where do I get load data? I've already checked the VV website, Lee manual, Lyman manual, Hornady manual, and Speer manual, and for some reason I can't find any data for a 158gr. lead bullet with N320. I can find it for 148gr. or N340, but not the data that I need.

I've been shooting in USPSA for just over a year and a half. On average, we have about 30-40 people per match, and the highest I've ever ranked was 4th. That was when all the club's top shooters were at the Area match. I just recently moved from D class to C class. That being said, there's one guy who I always have measured myself against. He was the first guy I befriended from the club, and we're on a similar skill and experience level. When I get the match rankings, I immediately check to see if I beat him! I don't pay attention to my ranking in relation to the top shooters, because it's just not constructive for me.

Ok, I'm going to be the contrarian and not recommend a Dillon press...yet. I also recently started reloading. I also don't have anywhere to put a press. I was looking at a Dillon SDB, because that's what all my IPSC buddies said I had to get, and then I started looking at getting a 550, because they all said I'd be happier with that. Nevermind the fact that I had absolutely nowhere to put it in my one-bedroom apartment. Then I asked my girlfriend's dad about it. He's a very experienced reloader and loves to reload. He suggested I maybe see if I even like to reload before I haul off and spend a ton of money. He then gave me a Lee Hand Press. I think this was a good way for me to learn the mechanics and basics of reloading (yes, I do like doing it BTW). Is it slow? Yes. But it's a lot faster, more productive, and more versatile than a Lee Loader, and it's still cheap. You also don't have to have a hammer and a hard surface (like the bench you don't have). I do most of my reloading sitting in my La-Z-Boy in front of the TV. And now, I do want to get a Dillon. But because of a $20 hand press I'm able to reload and gain valuable experience while I save up for that $300+ Blue Press. BTW, he got me the kit, but I'd just get the press by itself. If you get carbide dies, you don't use the case lube, the funnel by itself is only a couple of bucks, and I haven't even touched the Ram Prime because he also gave me a Lee Auto-Prime which works great and is also pretty cheap. You'll also need a scale, and a powder measure would be helpful. I don't have one yet, and it makes it much more time-consuming. A bullet puller and a loading block are also necessary. That's everything I have, and I've probably spent more buying bullets, powder, and primers than he did on giving me the whole setup. I'm using the Lee Carbide Speed Die, which is fast and efficient but doesn't give you any flexibility with the crimp.

I'll be picking up my S&W 14-3 tomorrow and reloading soon. I'd like to use VV N320 as I already have plenty around for my .45. The local store where I get my reloading components has a 148gr. DEWC and a 158gr. SWC (both lead) available, and I just don't know which one is better for me to use for punching paper. I can't find any load data for N320 and a 158gr. lead bullet, however I don't know how to properly seat a DEWC bullet. Can you guys help me out?

I recently started reloading .45ACP in a very basic single stage setup. (Lee Hand Press) I'd like to load .40 as well for my G35, but... Well, this being the internet, I'm sure you've all heard about the KB hysteria. Normally I don't truck with this kind of unconfirmed internet rumor, but I do personally know a guy in my local IPSC club who had a G22 blow up shooting reloads. I don't know anything about what load he was using or if he knew at all what he was doing, but I don't particularly want to risk destroying the first gun I ever truly loved . I am aware of the "no lead with the stock barrel" thing as well. Basically, I'd like to hear from people who load Major PF loads for their .40 Glock and what you do to ensure safety.

I've used the manufacturer recommended IDPA/practice load for my Wilson KZ45: 5.0gr. VV N320 200gr. LSWC 1.250 OAL I've had some feeding issues, I'm pretty sure because of case sizing problems due to my inexperience, but I might just switch to a LRN bullet after I use up the 200 or so LSWCs I still have.

I've got an S&W 14-3 on layaway, and I'll be buying an M64 after that for USPSA Revolver. The 14-3 will be used with light target loads, but I also am going to need a recipe for a load that will make Minor power factor. I use VV N320 in my .45ACP, and I'd like to use that for the .38 if I can, since I've already got it. I mostly reload for economy, so I'll probably load lead bullets. The ones that are readily available locally are Shooter's Connection 148gr. Wadcutters and 158gr. Round Nose. Any suggestions or "pet" loads would be greatly appreciated!

Since you were all dying to know...here's how I've decided to resolve this in my mind. I was just going to shoot my 14-3 in Minor. Then I started adding up the cost of speedloaders, a holster (not many competition-worthy choices for a 6-inch barrel), speedloader carriers, etc., I figured I was about halfway to the cost of buying a 4-inch cop trade-in M64 and having it machined for moonclips. So that's what I'm going to do. I think I'm starting to get the wheelgun fever. I made a list of possible purchases for the upcoming year, and guess what? One auto, 3 revolvers. In addition to the 14-3 on layaway. I must be getting old.

I thought my girlfriend was going to like a 9mm Kimber, and she did, but once she gripped a Hi-Power the search was over. The one she has is the base model MKIII with the thumbrest grips. browning It's a nice slim grip and points naturally like a 1911, but balances better for her small hands and it's not quite as heavy as a 1911. Plus it's in 9mm which is cheaper and easier to find. Her dad's a gun dealer, so he got her a brand new one, but used ones are plentiful too, and they can be as customized or not as you want them to be. It's also a higher capacity (I guess it doesn't matter much in CA) and if you have holsters for a 1911 already (like I do) they'll probably fit.

I did this with my Glock 35 for a year and it worked well for me. Then I got a Wilson KZ and it didn't work. After seeing a Todd Jarrett video online where he talked about grip, I realized the reason why it worked with the Glock is because I wasn't using a proper support grip when I didn't hook the trigger guard. It wasn't too difficult to unlearn for me, just because everything else I was doing was right. It did require a fair amount of slow, repetitive, boring dryfire, though. Now if I could just train myself to place my trigger finger in the right spot...

Thanks, guys, you've given me a lot of food for thought. Regardless, I think I'm going to shoot my 14-3 in competition anyway. Are there any halfway decent leather holsters that aren't too obscenely expensive? I've looked at the Safariland Cup Challenge (that's what the wheelgun guys in my club use) but it seems wrong to put a beautiful blued revolver in anything but leather. I'd also like recommendations for speedloader carriers. I'll probably get the Safariland speedloaders, I haven't handled the CompIIIs, just the CompIIs. Is it worth paying up for the CIIIs? I know there's not a huge price difference but when you add up the cost of all of them that I need...and how many speedloaders should I get anyway?

I'd like to dabble a little in USPSA Revolver. Right now I shoot a Wilson KZ45 in L10 and I'll continue to do so, but on those beautiful summer competition days, sometimes I wanna hang around and shoot another gun. I'm aware that pretty much all serious Revolver competitors shoot 625s, but I just can't handle and shoot one nearly as well as I can a K-frame .357. So, how about buying a cheap cop trade-in Model 66 and having it machined for moonclips? I figure they're so much cheaper than a 625 I'll have enough money left over for some JM grips and FO sights even after the moonclip conversion. Am I crazy? Like a fox? Has anybody else thought of this? PS I don't own a revolver now, but I've got an S&W 14-3 on layaway that I'll be rescuing after Christmas!

I'm a member of a relatively new IDPA club. We have some experienced welders and want to make some steel targets for handgun and eventually 3-gun matches, but we're having trouble finding steel that's hard enough to use with rifles and shotguns. Does anyone know of a supplier of steel that would work?

WOW! I really don't know jack about open guns. I was thinking I'd just use a ported barrel, didn't know there was a difference between that and a compensator. The idea was to slowly customize my G35 into a kicka$$ limited gun then add a ported barrel and an optic and suddenly have an open gun. I've got a Wilson KZ45 on layaway that I plan to use for L10 though, and that's making the SJC Stealth package look much more appealing. I guess my major concern is in drilling the frame for the optics mount. The reason is I saw a SIG 220 at the local gun store that had a ported barrel and a spare factory barrel with an optic mounted. It was great price for a gun with all that, but with a single stack mag it's useless for open, and if you took the optic off you had big ugly holes in the frame. Suddenly it's not such a good deal anymore. I'd like to retain most of the value of my Glock. I know added features add value, but around here there's not much of a market for raceguns. Sorry I'm so longwinded, I'm just thinking out loud. Further opinions on the realism/unrealism of my stated course of action are appreciated.

Long time lurker, first time poster. Normally every time I have a question I just end up finding it on a search, but this time I'd like to be more specific. I'm thinking about "opening" my G35. I don't want to permanently modify the gun, and I'd like to keep it as close to stock as possible, mostly to avoid reliability issues. What does everyone recommend? I'm starting from nothing here, my Glock is bone stock and I use a Blade-Tech injection molded belt holster. I'd like a ported barrel, but I don't know what kind. I'd like to use a C-More sight, but I don't know what kind of mount to use. I'd like to get a big magwell and extended mag baseplates, but I don't know what kind to get. Ideally I'd like to be able to shoot open and then swap a few key items off and shoot limited later in the day. I'd also like recommendations for a speed holster and mag carriers. I use a Bianchi outer belt and will probably be getting the inner belt to go with it soon. I'm not convinced that I need to do anything to the trigger, but I will if enough people can tell me from their real world experience that a super-light trigger job is worth the hassle. I've been shooting USPSA for less than a year and now that I've got the fundamentals down pretty well I'm starting to think more about specialized equipment. Any advice from those more experienced than me would be greatly appreciated.