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lcs

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Posts posted by lcs

  1. That's a good idea, I'll try no comp next time :)

    The test mule has no ports in the barrel and I know Akai uses that comp with lots of ports (6-8).

    When I had that comp on my short 38 with two holes it definitely shot softer/flatter at major velocity (maybe lower muzzle pressure?).

    Anytime you add the correct size and amount of barrel holes AND the right powder-You are going to flatten out the gun. I've messed with a lot of comps and powder combos. You will not see a flatter shooting gun than an SVI IMM in 38SC with 121s and a very healthy dose of 3N38. (10.2-10.4) Grip is not even a factor.

    You take that Akai comp with his barrel port design and 124s with about 10.6 of 3N38 and it is real flat shooting.

    9 Major will never output as much gas as 38SC, but you can still keep the dot within the glass of a C-more. Several ports and a Brazos Thunder 2 with a 5" gun,115s with HS 6 or Silhouette will make the dot lift and make a slight arc to the right. It doesn't get any better than that with a 9!

  2. I use them interchangeably with SPP in my many guns, never seen any ill effects, except that some guns might require two strikes due to the primer's extra hardness.

    An extended firing pin is cheap insurance.

    Agree. Cheap and anybody can put one in

  3. Looks like I'm down to these options:

    DAA Race Master $199

    DAA Racer $129

    CR Spd WSM II $189

    Blade-tech Comp $80

    Forget about the frame weight for right now. I ordered a Carver mount to get my optic off the slide. If I run the frame weight with no optic in Limited class, I'll have a custom holster maker I shoot with make me a holster to fit that configuration.

    Would I be best served for price-value in ordering the DAA Racer?

    I would not spend $200 holster for a M&P setup for open. I know of a used blade tek for that gun for very little monies. PM me and I can get you a price.

  4. I've had just about every mount made. I even look my gun with an offset mount and I seem to focus on the offset rather than the dot. The gun just does not present correctly. The 90 degree works 100%, but the gun's balance is off. I just began experimenting with the RTS2 and I think that is the way to go. The gun is balanced and no ejection tuning needed.

    What mount are you using?

    My mount is still in R&D stage. I didn't design it, but I don't know if the mount is ready for production. The one thing I can tell you--the RTS2 is centered on the mount, which is important to me. There is also a two sided in the works. I'm really looking forward to testing that one.

  5. I've had just about every mount made. I even look my gun with an offset mount and I seem to focus on the offset rather than the dot. The gun just does not present correctly. The 90 degree works 100%, but the gun's balance is off. I just began experimenting with the RTS2 and I think that is the way to go. The gun is balanced and no ejection tuning needed.

  6. Picture of the frame

    By any chance did you change the mount screws on the C-More? They are two long!!! Those screws should be flush with the frame.

    Don't shoot the gun until you or a smith corrects those screws.

    Yeah I added a GoGuns Gas peddle. The screws need to be shortened a bit but its not as bad as it looks in the picture. I think it looks worse due to the shadows and oil. In any event, the problem predates adding the gas peddle though and there are no marks on the screw tips indicating that they are making contact.

    What is your OAL? I still would not shoot that gun until the screws were even with frame.

  7. Picture of the frame

    By any chance did you change the mount screws on the C-More? They are two long!!! Those screws should be flush with the frame.

    Don't shoot the gun until you or a smith corrects those screws.

  8. Hello: Buy some ISMI recoil springs in 7,8 and 9lb. Also buy a ISMI mainspring in 17lb and you should be good. Depending on how your mags are setup the 7lb may not feed 100%. The 8lb should feed just fine. Wolff springs tend not to be consistent to what is written on the package. The Sprinco springs are good as well but a little harder to find. Thanks, Eric

    I had the same issue with 7LB springs. The 7lb springs will not strip the next round from the mag 100% of the time.

  9. Someone mentioned replacing the trigger, which I take to mean the trigger "shoe"... I assume because the factory unit is polymer. I shot the TS in that state for a long time, and it's hard to fault a 1 lb 10 oz factory trigger (even if it's polymer), but yes, it does feel better with the aluminum units available from CZ UB. I'd hardly say it "needs" it but I'll be ordering a long finger/large hand trigger for the Czechmate as well. My background knowledge with the platform is a big reason I bought the Czechmate, and I can mix and match with parts and mods I've made to my TS! Literally the only thing I need to pick up from CZC that I don't already have is the aluminum base plate for the big stick mag.

    The big thing seems to be reaming the chamber. I do all my own gunsmithing, but I don't know if I want to do that in my shop at home. I know someone locally that can help though. I know the max length you can fit in the TS/Czechmate mags is 1.170 OAL, so I assume reaming it to 1.150-60 would be ideal?

    As far as the 90 degree mount goes, I understand that's personal preference, but with my tendency to tinker I'm sure I'll try it eventually.

    kneelingatlas, I'll PM you from some load info, thank you! :D

    The 90 degree mount was developed to cure the 9 Major ejection problems of a standard C-More mount.

  10. From a safety perspective, I believe the 650 is the better press. Harder to double load a charge and auto indexing is faster.

    It is no more safe or dangerous than a 550. It is easier (IMO) to load a squib on the 650.

    Most of the people I talk to who have loaded squibs or worse, said they used a 550. Others posted ahead of me seem to favor the 650 also. Like you said IMO. As always, your mileage will vary.

  11. If the machine gets hung up with the tool head pins in place but runs fine when they are out, there is a misalignment between the platform and the tool head. This is what the 'Alignment Tool' is for. Keeping the pins out and running the machine will likely be less consistent and wear parts faster, as you are relying on interference between the cases and dies to align the tool head every time you pull the handle.

    We are expecting some pretty tight tolerances on the cartridges we make with these machines, so the machine needs to be tight. The only way to get all the parts of the machine to line up with tight tolerances is to design in adjustments. If the machine was designed to hold tight tolerances without adjustment, it would either have to have crazy tight tolerances itself (meaning crazy expense), or the reliability would be poor and we'd complain that alignment is bad.

    The fact that Dillon has made the entire platform adjustable is awesome! It might take a little work to align the whole machine, but it allows us to perfectly align the shell plate with the case feed and primer ram, and then the whole lower half with the tool head.

    Thank you. I will have to read up on the alignment tool. When I get the FTF into the decapping (U-die), I just reach through and touch the case and in it goes. I can get to 99.9% alignment IF I do everything very smootly, which also means "slowly"/

  12. weeeeee!

    lots of causes.

    for my solution I switched to a lee decapping/sizing die.

    the RCBS die would baulk at about 1 in 20.

    before I did that... I made sure the shellplate was clean and wobble free.

    ... uh, If you size a case that has been through the powder expander, it may need 'guidance.'

    I had the same problem. Called Dillon their first question was what dies are you using. I was using the EGW U-die, switched to a Dillon die and problem went away.

    Scott

    Ya BUT. The Dillon die will never do what the EGW U does. I'll live with the problem before loading 9 Major with anything but the U die.

  13. I'm shooting the gun,a 45, in a local ppc league. I'm using my reloads and I'm looking for more accuracy. I called Springfield Custom shop, they said they could get the group to 1.5 inch at 25 yards.

    Could be your reloads. No offense meant, but sometimes a tenth of powder more or seating the bullet shorter/longer. My focus would be on my ammo before jumping on a new barrel. Barrel + labor + shipping = $400 to $500.

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