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Flea

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Posts posted by Flea

  1. I started this thread b/c I have some Wolf 9mm steel cased ammo. I see nothing on the box that says the projectile has steel in it. Does anyone know if that Wolf ammo has steel in the bullet? If there is no steel in the bullet, then it's safe to shoot in a match on steel? Thanks

  2. 31 minutes ago, rowdyb said:

    So is your question about the nature of the test or the nature of steel projectiles?

    Not the test...but why a projectile that stuck to a magnet was bad. And the answer seems to be that means the projectile has some steel and can do crazy things when it hits steel.

  3. Sorry for the dumb question but the rules say you can use steel cased ammo if the projectile won't stick to a magnet. Why does it matter whether it sticks? If it sticks, it may be too hard and could ricochet off any steel? Thanks

  4. 1 hour ago, jwhittin said:

    To answer your question, you stop and tell the range officer.  They will assist you in making sure the gun is safe.  As Kraj said, its a DQ if the competitor tries to clear the squib during the course of fire.

    How is a stage scored when there is a squib issue?

  5. Rule 5.7.2.1 I believe says after the start signal, if you suspect a squib round, you can't clear it b/c you will be DQ'd. Am I correct? If so, what does one do when they believe they have a squib? Thanks

  6. Sorry for the silly question but what is the best way to get the trigger tab safety out of the way in order to get a legit pull on a gauge? My gauge has a has trouble depressing the tab. Just use some tape to “close” the tab?
     

    Thanks 

  7. 3 hours ago, Balakay said:

    If I was new to USPSA and had only 500 rounds left,  I would consider taking a 1 day class with a reputable instructor and then dry firing until you have ammo.  IMHO, this will help your long term progress more than 10 range trips with 1 box of ammo. 

    Can't say I disagree.

  8. 3 hours ago, mikeg1005 said:

    If all you have is 50rds to practice don't waste your time standing and shooting groups... or standing and drawing.  All of that stuff can be incorporated into a drill... Then work on the fundamentals in dryfire (which you should probably do fairly often for 15-30mins to account for the last of live fire). 

     

    I'd work on entry/exit drills with 2 targets and 2 plates.  Put the plates at 15yds (or w/e distance is hard) and the paper at 7yds (whatever distance you can comfortable shoot into/out of).   With 50rds its a 6 shot drill, you can do it 9 times.  

     

    (easy exit, easy entry) Draw on steel/leave on paper then enter on paper/finish on steel. 

    (hard exit, hard entry) Draw on paper, leave on steel, enter on steel, finish on the paper. 

    (easy exit, hard entry) Draw on steel, leave on paper, then enter on steel, finish on paper.

    Hard exit, easy entry) Draw on paper, leave on steel, enter on paper, finish on steel.

     

    Throw in reloads between positions.  

     

    Entry/exit is the most common thing you do in a match and the most difficult to practice in dryfire (as you can lie to yourself on how stable your gun is if you're not actually shooting).  Plus you're drawing and reloading under an actual match scenario which is more realistic than standing and drawing at target.  

     

    I wouldn't practice SHO/WHO if you have limited ammo, while this is a VERY important skill to have it comes up very rarely and would not be a priority if you have such a limited round count.   

    I'm only at an indoor range so movement stuff is a no bueno.

  9. 4 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:

    @Flea There's a million drills out there just for this sport, but as we all know with ammo being in limited supply I had to think about how to come up with a minimal set of drills that worked as many skills with the least amount of time and ammo as possible.

     

    For where I am skills-wise the following drills will help me the most:

    • Draw, pair freestyle at 10 yards
    • Draw, pair freestyle at 20 yards
    • Draw, pair SHO at 10 yards
    • Draw, pair WHO at 10 yards
    • Distance change up: Draw, pair freestyle 7 yds, pair freestyle 20 yds (run near to far and far to near)
    • Position/entry exit

    I came up with a scoring and tracking sheet that uses hit factor and % A's for every drill.  I set it up so that a box of 100 rounds would let me run all drills in the sheet once.  Feel free to modify to suit your situation.  And hit me up on PM if you have any questions.

     

    BTW, this requires the use of USPSA targets.  Even if you're in a place where you can't draw from the holster you can still run the first four of these drills from low ready or from a table start (like that little tray in front of you at indoor ranges).

    Copy Std USPSA drill tracking.xlsx 50.26 kB · 2 downloads

     

    Thanks much

  10. I'm newish to USPSA and only have access to an indoor range. I'm getting low on 9mm ammo so when I shoot, it's 50 rounds per session.

     

    What would you suggest as the best training session bang for the ammo buck? I typically start my session shooting at a 3" circle at 5 yards, then 7 or 10 yards. Slow fire. 10 rounds at each distance. I may then shoot the rest of the mags from say high ready one shot at a time.

     

    Thanks

  11. Thanks for the input. I'm 59 just for context. I have a Gen 5 G34 with a Romeo Max 3. Only owned it a few months and have less than 2,000 rounds through it. My index is utter crap....I don't have one yet. At five yards I was getting sub 1 second hits but I sure as hell wasn't seeing a red dot. I was basically point shooting. I'm not saying that's good or bad, it's just that being a relatively new shooter, I think I should really first learn how to shoot using the dot. Then when that is second nature, good old point shooting and just relying on a consistent index with my arm position will be what I strive for at certain distances.

  12. 48 minutes ago, SGT_Schultz said:

     

    @Flea disregard the above.

     

    Evidently Mr 4d has never heard of micro drills as a way to break down a complex task or motion into manageable chunks.

     

    Instead of trying to re-invent the wheel, just buy a good dry fire training book aimed at our sport.  Ben Stoeger has good ones, I think Steve Anderson does as well.

     I have one book from both and that's why I did this drill. To isolate just that part of the draw. I didn't say it, but the drill was live fire. At 8 yards, I was averaging 1.3 to 1.5 seconds and that's just rubbish.

  13. I’m aware that lots of folks want to get near a 1 second draw. That being said, what is a realistic par time goal for a new USPSA shooter for the following?

     

    8 yards

    Gun is hovering near right hip (right handed shooter) with support hand in chop position under trigger guard. Not sure what you would call this starting position. 
    At beep, bring gun up and fire one shot into A zone. 

  14. 58 years old and typically wear a 3.25 power contact in my right (dominant eye) for reading and a 1.50 power in my left for distance. Neither close or far is crystal clear so it's a compromise. And I have an astigmatism. With those contacts, the dot in my Romeo3 Max looks like a bunch of grapes but I can still shoot ok. It's better when I ditch the contacts and wear a pair of 1.75 cheaters. Can't read very well but the target gets clear and the red dot gets clear.

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