Flea
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Posts posted by Flea
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I'm traveling in May to Nashville and was wondering if there are any public, indoor ranges that rent handguns near downtown Nashville. Have a free night to shoot. Thanks
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Not sure if this is the right place for this post.
What is the best practice for clearing a light strike? Does it matter if it's the first shot of a stage? During the middle of the stage? Noobie here.
Thanks
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31 minutes ago, rowdyb said:
So is your question about the nature of the test or the nature of steel projectiles?
Not the test...but why a projectile that stuck to a magnet was bad. And the answer seems to be that means the projectile has some steel and can do crazy things when it hits steel.
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15 minutes ago, Lee Cabana said:
To what rule book are you referring? USPSA rule 5.5.3 specifically allows steel case ammo.
Last sentence of 5.5.3.
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Sorry for the dumb question but the rules say you can use steel cased ammo if the projectile won't stick to a magnet. Why does it matter whether it sticks? If it sticks, it may be too hard and could ricochet off any steel? Thanks
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10 minutes ago, motosapiens said:
as shot. including all applicable mikes and failure-to-shoot-at penalties. It kind of sucks when that happens.
The proverbial punch in the face.
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1 hour ago, jwhittin said:
To answer your question, you stop and tell the range officer. They will assist you in making sure the gun is safe. As Kraj said, its a DQ if the competitor tries to clear the squib during the course of fire.
How is a stage scored when there is a squib issue?
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Rule 5.7.2.1 I believe says after the start signal, if you suspect a squib round, you can't clear it b/c you will be DQ'd. Am I correct? If so, what does one do when they believe they have a squib? Thanks
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Sorry for the silly question but what is the best way to get the trigger tab safety out of the way in order to get a legit pull on a gauge? My gauge has a has trouble depressing the tab. Just use some tape to “close” the tab?
Thanks
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Anyone ever shoot this stuff? Is it fairly clean or total dirt?
Thx
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3 hours ago, Balakay said:
If I was new to USPSA and had only 500 rounds left, I would consider taking a 1 day class with a reputable instructor and then dry firing until you have ammo. IMHO, this will help your long term progress more than 10 range trips with 1 box of ammo.
Can't say I disagree.
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22 hours ago, Balakay said:
what is your monthly ammo budget--live fire and matches?
Well......I don't reload and only have 500 rounds of factory 9mm left and I'm not going to pay the current prices to get more. I will have to dry fire a lot, a real lot.
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3 hours ago, mikeg1005 said:
If all you have is 50rds to practice don't waste your time standing and shooting groups... or standing and drawing. All of that stuff can be incorporated into a drill... Then work on the fundamentals in dryfire (which you should probably do fairly often for 15-30mins to account for the last of live fire).
I'd work on entry/exit drills with 2 targets and 2 plates. Put the plates at 15yds (or w/e distance is hard) and the paper at 7yds (whatever distance you can comfortable shoot into/out of). With 50rds its a 6 shot drill, you can do it 9 times.
(easy exit, easy entry) Draw on steel/leave on paper then enter on paper/finish on steel.
(hard exit, hard entry) Draw on paper, leave on steel, enter on steel, finish on the paper.
(easy exit, hard entry) Draw on steel, leave on paper, then enter on steel, finish on paper.
Hard exit, easy entry) Draw on paper, leave on steel, enter on paper, finish on steel.
Throw in reloads between positions.
Entry/exit is the most common thing you do in a match and the most difficult to practice in dryfire (as you can lie to yourself on how stable your gun is if you're not actually shooting). Plus you're drawing and reloading under an actual match scenario which is more realistic than standing and drawing at target.
I wouldn't practice SHO/WHO if you have limited ammo, while this is a VERY important skill to have it comes up very rarely and would not be a priority if you have such a limited round count.
I'm only at an indoor range so movement stuff is a no bueno.
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9 minutes ago, bwswanson said:
8.5 x 11
Thanks. Where did you find that info?
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I've looked around but didn't find what size piece of paper the 50 shot dot torture test is done on.
8.5 x 11?
8.5 x 14?
Thanks
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4 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:
@Flea There's a million drills out there just for this sport, but as we all know with ammo being in limited supply I had to think about how to come up with a minimal set of drills that worked as many skills with the least amount of time and ammo as possible.
For where I am skills-wise the following drills will help me the most:
- Draw, pair freestyle at 10 yards
- Draw, pair freestyle at 20 yards
- Draw, pair SHO at 10 yards
- Draw, pair WHO at 10 yards
- Distance change up: Draw, pair freestyle 7 yds, pair freestyle 20 yds (run near to far and far to near)
- Position/entry exit
I came up with a scoring and tracking sheet that uses hit factor and % A's for every drill. I set it up so that a box of 100 rounds would let me run all drills in the sheet once. Feel free to modify to suit your situation. And hit me up on PM if you have any questions.
BTW, this requires the use of USPSA targets. Even if you're in a place where you can't draw from the holster you can still run the first four of these drills from low ready or from a table start (like that little tray in front of you at indoor ranges).
Thanks much
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I'm newish to USPSA and only have access to an indoor range. I'm getting low on 9mm ammo so when I shoot, it's 50 rounds per session.
What would you suggest as the best training session bang for the ammo buck? I typically start my session shooting at a 3" circle at 5 yards, then 7 or 10 yards. Slow fire. 10 rounds at each distance. I may then shoot the rest of the mags from say high ready one shot at a time.
Thanks
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What's the general consensus for how long the Talon's will stay on the grip before they start to peel off?
Thanks
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Thanks for the input. I'm 59 just for context. I have a Gen 5 G34 with a Romeo Max 3. Only owned it a few months and have less than 2,000 rounds through it. My index is utter crap....I don't have one yet. At five yards I was getting sub 1 second hits but I sure as hell wasn't seeing a red dot. I was basically point shooting. I'm not saying that's good or bad, it's just that being a relatively new shooter, I think I should really first learn how to shoot using the dot. Then when that is second nature, good old point shooting and just relying on a consistent index with my arm position will be what I strive for at certain distances.
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48 minutes ago, SGT_Schultz said:
@Flea disregard the above.
Evidently Mr 4d has never heard of micro drills as a way to break down a complex task or motion into manageable chunks.
Instead of trying to re-invent the wheel, just buy a good dry fire training book aimed at our sport. Ben Stoeger has good ones, I think Steve Anderson does as well.
I have one book from both and that's why I did this drill. To isolate just that part of the draw. I didn't say it, but the drill was live fire. At 8 yards, I was averaging 1.3 to 1.5 seconds and that's just rubbish.
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I’m aware that lots of folks want to get near a 1 second draw. That being said, what is a realistic par time goal for a new USPSA shooter for the following?
8 yards
Gun is hovering near right hip (right handed shooter) with support hand in chop position under trigger guard. Not sure what you would call this starting position.
At beep, bring gun up and fire one shot into A zone. -
Ultra trail runs or orienteering or kayaking or SUPing.
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Anyone have any issues running either of those springs in their Gen 5 G34 and shooting factory 115g, 124g or 147g ammo? I have a JG trigger kit installed too.
Thanks
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58 years old and typically wear a 3.25 power contact in my right (dominant eye) for reading and a 1.50 power in my left for distance. Neither close or far is crystal clear so it's a compromise. And I have an astigmatism. With those contacts, the dot in my Romeo3 Max looks like a bunch of grapes but I can still shoot ok. It's better when I ditch the contacts and wear a pair of 1.75 cheaters. Can't read very well but the target gets clear and the red dot gets clear.
Steel Cased Ammo
in USPSA/IPSC Rules
Posted
I started this thread b/c I have some Wolf 9mm steel cased ammo. I see nothing on the box that says the projectile has steel in it. Does anyone know if that Wolf ammo has steel in the bullet? If there is no steel in the bullet, then it's safe to shoot in a match on steel? Thanks