Flea
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Posts posted by Flea
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Moving to CZ?
in CZ
1 minute ago, jripper said:Short answer: weight, quality, single action trigger. Locally I've seen several people jump ship from CZ to a X 5 legion. I won't myself. CZ firearms are quality products. Over the last 5 years the amount of gun related malfunctions I've had during matches from a CZ I could easily count on 1 hand. A tuned CZ single action trigger is awesome, just short of a tuned 1911 imho.
The g34 is light weight. Weight absorbs recoil, makes it easier to shoot.
The steel q 4 just feels horrible, not balanced at all.
I haven't dealt with the x5 legion myself. They are very popular. But they are striker guns. A striker gun trigger can never be tuned as well as a hammer gun.
The Da/sa guns do take adjustment. Once you get it down, it's not a big deal, but until that point it does take some getting used. to.
But if I want to shoot in CO, I can't use a SA gun.
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Moving to CZ?
in CZ
I've only been shooting since Nov 2019 and have a WC CQB Elite 4.25". I did one USPSA match in SS and think I'm going to go down the USPSA Carry Optics rabbit hole.
I'm 58 and think I want to do down the red dot rabbit hole too because I'm tired of seeing two targets all the time (this isn't meant to be a post about shooting and vision issues). Thus I'm leaning towards selling the WC to fund a CZ S2 optics ready gun (or should I consider the S2 Orange and get it milled?). However, I'm not a big fan of DA/SA guns (I have a Sig 226) and I love my 1911 trigger.
Maybe I'm way off base, but I'd assume, in a competition only setting, shooters would always prefer a SA trigger. If that statement is generally correct, why do so many people compete or move into carry optics and use a CZ? It seems from the yearly stats, shooters are willing to deal with a DA/SA CZ over say a striker X5 or G34 or Q4.
Sorry for the rambling but I'm looking to avoid mistakes or identify potential issues that others have already made or dealt with.
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3 hours ago, LuvDog said:
Shadow 2 milled by CZ Custom for their RDS Plate. Sent to CJ Maven for his tuning package. Right now, running Vortex Venom, but am switching to an SRO that I picked up.
Does it make sense to get the optics ready CZ Shadow 2 or do what you did?
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What gun and optic are you using for CO?
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I guess I don't quite understand how it works. I used it for the first time and it was at in an indoor range. I hit the button with no par time to see how quickly I was able to shoot 2 A zone shots. If no one is shooting while I shoot then as soon as I'm done a bunch of other people start shooting, will it record everyone else's shots? I assume it will. How long will it keep recording the shots...until there is a very long pause or until I hit the button again?
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Just now, Racinready300ex said:
I think you just hit the button again.
True...but it will still hold all other strings that will fit in the viewer. I'd like to possibly see only the current string.
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I recently got one of these but I don't see anything in the manual that says how to clear all the shot data. Can it do this? If so, how? I assume if I take out the battery for a minute or so, that would do it.
Thx
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...and I was really bad. As in dead last by a wide margin out of 28 people....but I had a lot of fun. Putting aside the fact that I had mental overload and didn't even shoot things (targets, left popper standing) I was supposed to, I had a lot of difficulty in just shooting. For context, I've only been shooting a handgun since Nov 2019 and I have a 4.25" 1911.
What I found most challenging was shooting at USPSA targets. Up until yesterday, the only things I shot at were black or fluorescent circles or squares or triangles or bars. Something that my 58 year old eyes could focus on when aiming. With the USPSA targets, there is nothing black or distinctive to help me focus. I was amazed how difficult it was for me to aim at the A zone.
Is this a normal type thing for a new shooter of USPSA? I need to start shooting mostly at USPSA targets to get used to that visual.
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In Ben S's Dryfire Reloaded book, he breaks down the draw into two micro drills: 0.4 seconds to get your hands from your sides to getting your shooting hand on the gun and your support hand into your normal position to receive the gun, and then 0.5 seconds par time to go from the end of the prior position to getting a good sight picture on a target 7 yards away.
I seem to be near the par time for the first part of the draw but am having more difficulty with part two. Any tips on how to speed up the second part (other than do it 25,000 times)?
Thanks
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From your experience, what are the three most often used ESP and SSP guns seen in your matches? Make, model and caliber?
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Well I got a real timer and this is the second time using it. First reps are at 2.2 sec par time, next reps are at 1.7 sec par time and last reps are at 1.3 sec par time. Boy oh boy do I need lots of practice.
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Well I've been using the Free Shot Timer app on my phone for dry fire practice and was working on a 0.5 sec par time starting with my hand on the gun then getting the gun out of the holster and get a good sight picture and it seemed like I was sort of close to meeting the time limit. Today I used the new Pro II timer I just bought and tried the same drill with the same par time and lo and behold, it was basically impossible to get near the par time. Was quite the rude awakening. The shi&#y app time wasn't even close to being accurate.
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15 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:
Looks like you're on top of it.
When I shoot the occasional IDPA match I use a kydex pancake holster. Same thing I use to conceal.
Which one did you get? I have a 1911 4.25" gun.
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21 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:
I think you've received mostly excellent advice on the mechanics of your draw.
I recommend you check how far away from your body that holster rides. IDPA rules require a dowel of a certain diameter (memory escapes me now) to not fit between you and the gun when holstered.
IDPA doesn't have "approved holsters". IDPA requires that the holster fit a certain way and your holster looks like it doesn't.
The dowel rule is there should be no more than 3/4" dowel width between the grip and your body. Also all of the grip from the trigger guard down has to be above the top of your belt. My holster is sold as an "IDPA legal" holster. But when I first got it, there were spacers between the hanger and the holster which pushed the gun too far from my body. I had to take them out. The less love handle one got, the harder it is to find a holster with a hanger that will clear the IDPA rule.
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21 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
You have the forward lean right.But stagger your feet: move the weak side foot forward six inches or so, then look down and bend at the knee until you can’t see the toes of that foot. Boom: forward stance with much more stability.
Most of us in A-class or so?
We’re now fighting to learn to bend our knees more and shoot & move from a lower stance. For entries, exits, and shooting on the move? A slightly uncomfortable amount of bend in the knees is a good thing. Might as well work on a low, forward stance right off the bat.
I tried what you suggested regarding getting low enough in your stance to not see your toes in your lead foot and I must say it feels unnaturally low. To the point of it being hard to hold that position without feeling tension in the quads (which I gather isn't a great thing to have). I'm not the strongest guy in the world but I'm far from the weakest.
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6 hours ago, bimmer1980 said:
Looks good. I find that stance still a bit wobbly. Maybe you put to much weight forwards, what leads to counterweight movements when you get the weight of the gun up.
Try not to move your upper body and head at all. Only the hands/arms move.
I think you're right. I tend to have a LOT of weight just on my toes. I guess I've convinced myself that "leaning into" shooting will lessen the amount I get pushed backwards after each shot.
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4 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
Looks better than my first video would have.
Work on gaining speed with all of the above advice!Two things to keep in mind for match days:
(1) Most guys wait for the beep to finish then react to it.. An easy gain of 0.2 seconds is to simply try to get your hand to the gun before the beep tone finishes, which makes you work on reacting fast. (That beep is 0.3 seconds long on many timers)
(2) Always do a 100% speed draw. If the first target is a very long 30 yard shot, many guys will perform a slow draw, and only hammer high speed when the first target is close. Get the gun up and out as quickly as you can. The additional time to refine the sight picture occurs after the gun is presented.
#1 is a hidden gem for sure....well played!
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58 minutes ago, waktasz said:
Mechanics look pretty good. Have you started working with the timer yet?
Just start whittling down your par times a tenth at a time and I think you will have a pretty good result. Start with a comfortable time and do 10 reps or so to warm up, then drop it a tenth. Do 10 more then drop it a tenth. Keep going until everything falls apart and then raise it back up a tenth, and you should be able to comfortably make that new par time. After a fews days of that, lower your "warmup" set by a tenth and then continue the process. You'd be surprised how fast you can make gains doing it this way.
Also, don't forget about everything else. The draw is just one component of the match, and the majority of the time you don't get to stand and blast from the start position, so practice draws while stepping to all directions tooI have a shot timer app so I can't film and do the timer at the same time. I've been focusing on 1.5 second par time. What does "everything falls apart" mean to you in the context of dry firing indoors at a USPSA A zone target 20 feet away? Would it be when I can't get a "clean shot" in the A zone in the time? I'm going to order a real timer. Debating on whether to get the CED 7000 or Pocket Pro II. Not sure which one works better for picking up dry fire of a 1911.
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Going a bit faster.
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2 hours ago, mvmojo said:
Fundamentals look solid but I agree the gun should come up higher before punching out to the sight picture. You're doing what I call "bowling", drawing the gun and moving it up at the same time you're moving it out. Maybe putting your support hand a little higher on your stomach will help in bringing the gun higher before gripping and punching out. But, everybody is a little different in their draw. Set a 2+ sec par time and see what works best. Shorten the par time and keep experimenting before you spend too much time building bad habits. Once you get to failure on on particular method but the other still works, that's the one to practice, practice, practice with shorter, shorter, shorter par times. But, be warned, in your first few matches (or maybe more!), when the timer goes off your IQ will drop by 50 points and you memory will be so bad you'll feel like you could plan your own surprise party!
Yep, I'm pretty sure it will be a sh*t show for a while....
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16 minutes ago, MikeBurgess said:
So the big thing I see is you are moving very slowly through the whole draw sequence, large portions of the draw need to be completed as quickly as you can physically do it.
Thinking of it like this helped me speed up.
snap to your grip (fast as possible)
get a good grip (whatever it takes)
rip the gun up hard (fast as possible)
decelerate and clean up sights (whatever it takes)
That certainly is the goal, but at this early stage I'm just trying to get the right fundamentals at half-speed.
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I'm not a competitive shooter and have only been shooting since Dec and have limited time with a holster. I've taken a draw from the holster class and have gotten some further advice from some range officers.
I'm using an IDPA-legal holster and was trying to do the draw in around 2 to 2.5 seconds.
Any suggestions for improving the draw with the hope of competing in some IDPA would be greatly appreciated. Two things that stood out to me are after clearing the holster, is the gun too low, and (in the side view) I sort of rock back as I press out.
Don't be too mean.
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16 minutes ago, m700 said:
If your going to buy precut tape. The talons are good, and springer has worked well for me as well. Silicon carbide would be a better route and give you more control of how aggresive you may want it.
Can you expand on the silicon carbide...what/how/who? Thx
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7 minutes ago, davsco said:
i use blade-tech for a couple of different guns i shoot in idpa. believe they have a 20% off sale right now. if they don't do 4.25" a 5" should work just a little more room in there than needed.
I've looked at their stuff but they are also on hangers like mine. I thought they wouldn't work for skinny guys.
Moving to CZ?
in CZ
Posted
That's what I'm thinking for the CZ. What is the out of the box DA weight? What do guys normally tune it to?