Flea
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Posts posted by Flea
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1 hour ago, N3WWN said:
I use two GoPros: 1 on my hat for 1st person video (useful for "why did I fumble that reload" and "what happened that caused me to miss that target" analysis) and 1 on a large tripod for 3rd person video.
Usually placing the 3rd person camera on your support hand side of the stage will result in keeping you visible because ROs tend to favor staying on your strong hand side to better watch the gun. Also try to place it high enough that it can see over someone accidentally walking in front of it.
Another thing I have occasionally done for my 3rd person camera is to use a "bendable tripod" (search for examples) and wrap it around a wall leg, canopy leg, etc.
My YouTube video for the 2022 Classic Nationals shows multiple 3rd person camera options: video buddy holding the camera, bendable tripod wrapped around stuff, bendable tripod on the ground, large tripod. The small tripod on the ground is my least favorite option.
I know a guy that uses a really tall selfie-stick / monopod attached to his range cart to get 3rd person video and records almost "top down" 3rd person video. Search for "38ssm" on YouTube to find his videos.
You have link to the 2022 Classic Nationals?
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I can't always get someone to film me at a match, so I'm looking for recommendations for 3rd person filming. Also I want to start doing 1st person videos so any reasonably priced options out there?
Thanks
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Anyone use their new, FMJ, 9mm ammo in 115g, 124g or 147g? In one box of each, I had several failure to fires. After the first few, I put in a brand new 5.5lb striker spring in my G34. After the spring change, I still had the same issue. Is it common knowledge that FM's quality isn't top notch?
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2 hours ago, Cuz said:
What Generation is your G34? My reloads chrono between 127-135 depending on which Glock I shoot them out of. My Gen5 G17 & 34 are the slowest and my Gen3 34 is the fastest. Maybe buying another gun is your answer if you never plan to reload.
Gen 5. Stock barrel.
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36 minutes ago, Boomstick303 said:
You can buy specific PF ammo from boutique ammo makers, but it will be hard to find Lower PF from main stream manufactured ammo sources, with the exception of maybe Federal Syntech ammo which is designed for competition uses. I have not checked the PF for the various bullets weights in the Syntech line so it might be worth looking into the PF of other bullet weights, but I imagine you will not get ammo down to 125 PF.
Places like Atlanta Arms Ammo, ELEY, and other small outfits. This ammo will typically bottom out at 130 PF, so there is a little fudge factor to ensure the ammo passes Chrono in various conditions. The problem with this ammo is it is rather expensive and its not always in stock.
Of course you need to Chrono the ammo out of your gun to make sure you are making the PF you want. The info on the box is most likely not based on the gun you are shooting.
I would strongly recommend you do not shoot for 125 and shoot for 130 PF for the reasons stated above.
Sage advice for sure. I have shot some Precision Delta and Eley and they both would probably chrono at 140 or above out of my G34.
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3 minutes ago, RJH said:
I'm going to counter that thinking with what I would consider more correct thinking LOL, then you decide what you want to do.
Buy a press and learn to reload, now your ammo cost half as much as it does today. And that's even figuring elevated component prices, because you're paying them anyway. Now, you don't have to do any crazy amount of tuning, just buy some tight group powder or something along those lines and get the power factor down to about 130. Now you're going to deal with less recoil and you're still going to knock steel over just fine. Also while it will take a little while to pay for the press, in the end you'll be making your ammo at about half price so you can practice twice as much.
There's no good reason to shoot 145 power factor ammo in a minor division. If I'm shooting limited I shoot 170, yep that makes minor but there's no way in hell I'm shooting 170 in the division that I'm going to be scored minor in anyway. I'm also not going to shoot 145 anymore than I have to, because 130 is way more better. I do think people can get carried away with trying to find the world's flattest 125 and a half power factor load, but dropping power factor to some degree is definitely worth it in my opinion. good luck
Can't disagree with this thinking either....other than the fact I won't be reloading anytime soon or possibly ever.
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3 minutes ago, Darqusoull13 said:
Then you passed chrono. You've got a fast barrel. Awesome! Poppers will go down more often.
In my Shadow 2 I achieved 137 PF with the 150's. In a couple different PCC's with 10" - 14" ish barrels I'm between 140-145. None of that matters other than all of those PF's are greater than 125.
Guys waste years of their lives trying to get 125 PF with this and that reload when really all that time could be spent dry firing, live fire practicing and improving. If the rabbit hole is where you find happiness that's awesome. Go down and chase it. If you want reliable ammo that meets PF, there's plenty of great options. Go shoot
Can't disagree with that thinking.
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4 minutes ago, Darqusoull13 said:
Order the Federal Syntech 150 grain loads. It's going to be as close as you can get to your goal of softest possible recoil and it's certified so you're good at chrono. Bonus, it runs clean and cool.
That's what I used and it chronoed at 145.
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I was afraid you guys would say what you said. Is there reasons why no factory ammo guys produces 132ish PF out of 5" barrel?
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I'm not sure if this is the right place for this post. Anyway, do you have a recommendations for 125PF ammo that reliably passes chrono in a G34? I'm a novice to all this and don't know if one needs to err on the high side and get a PF a fair bit above the minor floor. I shot Federal Syntech 150g 9mm and it chronoed at 145. Federal and Precision Delta are in the 135 range, at least what it says on the box or website.
Thanks
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6 minutes ago, Rnlinebacker said:
Most powders are temp sensitive where they go up in warm weather and go down in colder. Some can be reverse temp sensitive where they go up in cold and down in warm.
Do you run an aftermarket barrel?
No stock. Does going up from 134 to 145 seem typical?
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I know basically nothing about this topic. I attended my first match that had a chrono. I was shooting Federal Syntech 9mm 150g ammo out of a G5 Gen 34. It was pretty hot and humid yesterday. Muzzle velocity on the box says 890fps so the PF should have been around 134. It chronoed at 145. Any ideas why that happened?
Thanks
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Google Ben Stoeger and Steve Anderson books.
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Anyone shoot either through a CO Gen 5 G34 recently? What did it chrono at?
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On 3/25/2022 at 9:08 PM, Farmer said:
I was also going to mention that all those batteries give off a fume or vapor. When in a sealed enclosure it’s almost like an oily deposit on everything and can disrupt the contacts. A simple wipe with an alcohol pad cleans it right off but it’s just something to remember. I first noticed it on one of my red dots that had set for a while. No leaking or corrosion, just little beads of an oily substance. If you keep batteries in a sealed container for a while you can also smell it when you open it up.
This is a response I got in a different forum.
I had a similar issue to Flea27 on my 3xl. I sent my dot in and Sig couldn't find anything wrong with it. Then one day after getting it back, while training, it did it again. I took video of the dot being gone and then reappearing after firing a shot. I sent the video to a contact at Sig and they told me to send the optic back in. Turns out they figured out the dot would shift off the lense, giving the appearance it turned off, then after firing it would return to zero. Sig replaced the optic.
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1 hour ago, Farmer said:
Is it still a problem? Does it only do it during dry fire?
It happened in dry and live fire. Sig stepped up and said they will send me a new one.
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So I sent it back on 2/22/22 and just got my own one back today. They said they couldn't reproduce the issue, shot 100 rounds while using it and and the unit met spec so it was sent back. I'm pretty pissed that a month later they tell me the thing is working when I know it's not working. Anyone run into this issue with Sig and get a fix?
Thanks
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Not better, but said slightly differently. You look at the exact spot you want the bullet to land then bring the dot to that point then pull the trigger. Your focus should always be on the spot you want your bullet to hit, not on the dot. Using a dot, when done correctly, allows you to have one focal point, the spot where you want the bullet to hit. Using irons has up to 3 focal points, target/front sight/rear sight.
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1 hour ago, X5SigChris said:
A little more personal data to the thread. Shot a match yesterday and the biggest takeaway I got from it is to speed up!!! I found myself aiming for the A zone but if I felt a little pressure under time, I let her rip if I was on the brown. Here is how I placed vs a person that I sort of follow and use as a reference
me:
Place 52/85 overall
24/41 in division
86A, 12C, 1D, 1M, 1NS
time 111 seconds
CO U
followed shooter
place 29/85 overall
11/41 in division
62A, 32C, 3D, 4M
time 71 seconds
CO A
By math, he simply got more points per seconds than I did and my NS took a toll as well. Dry fire seemed to help me a lot but short movements in the house isnt going to cut it. For me, it’s time to take it out back and set up lanes. Hope this helps someone out there
Interesting. That's what I would have thought in general, but nice to see some data.
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I use a Romeo3 Max with a C-More plate (part # MT-501).
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Starting about 2 months ago, the dot would just disappear while I was dry firing. Then it would randomly reappear. 98% of the time the dot always stays on. I have a new battery in it and pushed up that little silver tab that lies underneath the battery.
Anyone have other suggestions on how to stop this issue?
Thanks
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Not a doctor. Where in your foot is the pain? Plantar fasciitis (PF) pain can be in many places but most typically is in the arch or somewhere on the bottom or outside edges of the heel. I've had to deal with PF several times over the years. I'm 60 now. What worked for me most recently is 1) never ever walk around barefoot, especially when you first wake up, 2) buy something like these to wear around the house from the moment you wake up (https://olukai.ca/products/nalu-slide-mens-sandals-black?variant=34542937440391 ), 4) buy a pair of after-market insoles that offer arch support to wear in the shoes you wear outside, 4) stretch your calves 100x a day!
Number 1 above was what I believe was the game changer for me. Your experience may vary.
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2 hours ago, ChuckS said:
The calculator is primer friendly! Just choose a division and put in any hit factor. The calculator will tell you the percentage for that hit factor and will also show the minimum HFs needed for each class. Then you can play with points and time to see what you need for the classification you are interested in.
Got it.
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13 minutes ago, ChuckS said:
The classifier calculator on the USPSA web site will allow you to see this sort of stuff
I only belong to an indoor club so basically can't use the calculator since I can't live fire these classifiers, thus I'm trying to work backwards.
Silicon carbide grip, how to tone down or remove?
in General Gunsmithing
Posted · Edited by Flea
Where did you get 60 grit SC? Thanks
I'm also interested in how one goes about sanding off old SC to put on a fresh batch of SC. I don't use a Dremel much. The sanding wheels don't seem robust enough to remove old SC.