Tango
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Posts posted by Tango
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9 hours ago, Don_B said:
Don't over think it! Where you zero is not as important as knowing where your holds are at different distances.
For over 20 years I have zeroed my open guns at 15 yards. I have no issues hitting plates at 50 yards just by knowing where to hold, anything closer I just hold on. Except for a very close target with a no-shoot or hard cover, then I hold high because of the offset from the bore.
are you really thinking hold overs in the heat of the stage? i mean, i feel that i have to slow down so much to even think about it
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to me 3MOA would be the best, i have a 6MOA dot which blooms super big when brightness is high or when the targets are in the dark part of the range
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nope, it just can't
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Time: 3.12
7 A, 1C
HF: 12.18
91.4 %
Made M with this in CO. I was rushed, so didn't have much time to think about it. Looked at the targets once, relaxed, and just shot it at the beep. Somehow it all worked fine.
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I discovered that my accuracy at 25m bullseye (slow) shooting is exactly the same in target focus and front sight focus. This was before I started action shooting, when I could make 2 inch 5-shot groups regularly with both methods, and occasionally 1 inch groups. The advantage of target focus for action shooting and self defense is obvious, but you must still see your sights (blurry) and have awareness of your front sight so a bright fiber helps tremendously. I recommend a larger front post and bigger fiber (0.06 is good) than what your typical adjustable sights offer. This is a good example:
https://www.trijicon.com/products/subcategory/trijicon-fiber
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50 minutes ago, Benelli-Benn said:
i will admit i have not read the full thread .... that said, anyone know where to get ahold of a legion???? Romeo 1 Pro??? 9mm ammo???
any of the three would be greatly appreciated!! i have looked everywhere and I know I have exhausted all my options here. I have been wanting to upgrade my competition gun to a P320 legion and given the crazy times ..... well you all know. Any help would be much appreciated.
gunbroker is full of x5 legions
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2 hours ago, raz-0 said:
What parts break for you? I haven't seen anyone having any real problems with them at matches, and the only thing that seems to be a potential issue form taking it apart is the lifespan of some small springs. Next area of concern would be the adjustable rear sight, but mostly I think that is a risk of disassembly because it needs ot be adjusted to one extreme out of the box. At least to match with the tall front sight, but for a lot of people it seems to also need a lot of lateral adjustment.
As for the polymer hardness, Every polymer gun I have tried has some issues with needing something cleaned up, including the legion, and the tungsten grip behaves similarly to my first gen M&P. It's plastic, it's going to shave. Just the tungsten infused stuff will dull your edge quicker. I'd give the award to hardest polymer to my old H&K USP. That one I punted and moved to abrasives because I ahd to use enough pressure that control suffered and cautious use of abrasives was less error prone. I'd also say that glock polymer is pretty soft, and tends to displace more than it abrades when gouged, especially in thinner areas like the mag well. How much reloads wear will likely come down to how you practice. Live fire and dry fire with dummy rounds are going to be significantly less abusive in general than stabbing a feed lip into things over and over.
within the 1.5 year of moderate usage on a p320 compact and heavy usage on an X5, I had the following parts break: sear springs, drop safety lever, striker hook (or whatever you call it), and the tungsten grip module is eroding, the sear is chipping off. Mind you, the first three breakages render the trigger dead!
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Just saw this thread. I actually believe you will reach your goals, and I like that you don't care about those who try to look down upon you or try to pull rank. Why you are still C class is a mystery to me, but you shoot like some M's I know around here. You have the age and body type that will allow you to compete at the top level, and you are working hard. You just seem a little crazy, but in a good way
Of course the gun matters, and you know that. However, it makes sense to me to try to make at least M with a crappy gun to really hammer the fundamentals, and then switch to a proper competition gun when you are serious about your competition results.
On my end, after shooting USPSA for a little over a year and recently making M in CO, I am questioning my goals and life choices because I don't see myself making much more progress unless I invest a huge time into this and actually get back in shape.
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same here, but my problem is i start getting tired towards late parts of matches
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I seem to have made some improvement on this by changing my dry fire targets and routine. I used to dry fire to only easy open targets; now I have a mix of open target arrays mixed with small steel or partials, which forces me to go fast, slow, fast again, etc. It really works.
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On endurance: I recently shot a single-day 10-stage major match on a hot and humid day, and crashed towards the end of the match. To be honest, I didn't have much energy even in the morning due to things I had to do the day before. But, one thing I realized is sleep is super important for stamina. I just don't have the stamina for such a long match unless I take my full nights sleep, and have done it back to back for a few nights before the match. Basically, for me, the key is working on hydration and sleep a few days before the match.
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6 minutes ago, motosapiens said:
I think I found your issue.
i thought you could dry fire yourself all the way to GM
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17 minutes ago, motosapiens said:
I started in this sport as an overaiming turtle, and I still occasionally regress to that behavior, but one of the things I have noticed in training to go faster is that it really doesn't take any more time to see the sights on hoser targets and call good shots. In fact it is often *faster* for me than simply pulling the trigger as fast as I can while pointing the gun roughly towards the targets, and I get way fewer C's as well.
2 things that have helped me immensely:
1. practicing on 3" circles at 7 yards, trying to learn how to grip the gun so as to shoot faster pairs (and triples) while watching every shot, and being able to call the ones that hit outside the circles. this really helped refine my grip, and my shot-calling.
2. doing some fast target arrays back to back with a total hoser mindset, and then with a 'seeing the sights as fast as I can' mindset.
You may be surprised to find out that you can go very nearly as fast as total hoser mode while shooting accurately and calling good shots. Once you believe that, you can trust it, and stop trying to force the speed in a match. You can then shoot as fast as you can see, with confidence that it will be plenty fast.
very cool, however i almost never live fire train. something for dry fire?
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I shoot matches (CO) where I am the most accurate in the entire match. I also shoot matches where my time is on par with open GM's, but accuracy suffers (misses, no shoots, steel left standing). In both cases my match performance is about the same (70% to 80% of the winner, typically a PPC or CO GM). I am trying to make gains, which is why I am pushing speed. I want to shoot at my top speed, and still get acceptable hits.
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15 minutes ago, motosapiens said:
I think many people get trapped into the idea that they can only shoot fast by not seeing very much, so it is a 'gear switch' to be able to see more for a more difficult shot. Truth is you can shoot pretty damn fast while seeing enough to call good shots too, then on a harder target you just continue to see the sights where they need to be.
Yes, precisely the point. I am not missing most shots because of my trigger pull or anything, but actually the dot is not on the target in the first place. It requires a small bit of extra patience to confirm the dot, but then that extra patience can make me start going slower....it is weird.
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59 minutes ago, Sarge said:
Pretty common problem. Good stage designers like to deliberately make shooters "change gear". Even some of the best get sucked in to the trap. lean around a wall and hose 2-3 targets at 10 feet then two mini poppers at about 25 yards. Most will hose the paper then just rip two shots at the steel and miss the first few shots until they take aim.
i do that, i can also take the steel just fine, but then be sluggish the rest of the stage...so it goes both ways
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48 minutes ago, SGT_Schultz said:
This is useful.
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10 hours ago, Matt1 said:
There is only 1 gear....
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalkthere you go, i was expecting this.
any advise or opinion on the OP??
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One issue I have: I can get stuck in the too accurate/slow gear or in the hosing gear during a stage. I can do both types of shooting separately, but not in the same stage. If the stage involves tough shots or it is a mentally challenging stage, I will be very accurate but slow. Obviously, not good for HF. Other times, I can be quite fast if the stages involve mostly hosing type arrays, but throw in a steel or partial in that stage, I will miss. It seems I am not able to switch between super aggressive hosing vs. careful shooting during a stage, as appropriately required.
I am a new A class. Any advise here?
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I just bought a new Sig Romeo1 3 moa because my 6 moa red dot (also Romeo1) looks too big in low light environments. The new red dot looks like crap! It is sometimes a star, sometimes a comma, sometimes a blob, and anything in between. I am not known to have astigmatism, and my wife sees the same patterns. Further, my 6 moa Romeo1 in its low setting looks super nice and round (although it can start looking like a blob in higher settings). Anyway, because of these reasons (changing pattern, my wife seeing the same, and me seeing the older optic fine in low setting) I think this optic is just crap.
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I have a different but related question: i wrap like 5 layers of skateboard tape around my X5 grip to make it both thicker and grippier. Is this legal in CO or production?
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On 6/16/2020 at 9:39 AM, Boomstick303 said:
I am running a 11# Wolff 1911 Spring in my X5 Legion running 147 gr with a PF of 130. Gun runs flawless. I have tried the 10# Wolff 1911 Spring but did not see or feel much difference in recoil. The only issue I had playing with recoil spring weight is due to bad ammo. Since I went away from that ammo the gun has had zero non user induced failures.
same, both 11 and 10 pound springs worked fine
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4 hours ago, DKorn said:
One thing you’re missing (but probably doing anyway) is to review the written stage briefing for the start position and number of targets. Then, before you do anything else, make sure you’ve actually found all the targets. If the stage is confusing as far as which targets are which, with stuff available from multiple positions, etc (a “memory stage”), it can help to step outside of the shooting area to figure out the targets, then go back to the regular planning process. To me, finding all the targets is the most important thing because the biggest (non-DQ) penalty that a single mistake can cost you is 2 mikes and a failure to shoot at.
yes, my #1 rule already assumes I did that
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here is my algorithm, please critique:
1. build a mental map of all targets and their positions
2. identify "mandatory" shooting positions (these are positions where targets are only available from, you have to go there)
3. plan the rest of targets: minimize the time to shoot the rest of the targets between mandatory positions, by:
a) minimize the number of shooting positions (shoot as many targets from one position as possible)
b) avoid movement without shooting or reloading
c) avoid very wide transitions
d) avoid very hard shots, pay extra attention to steel, no shoots etc.
e) avoid moving backwards as much as possible
4. then figure out the rest: reloads (easier for high cap), DQ traps, where to shoot on the move, feet positions etc.
5. memorize, visualize, air gun
Of course, this is way too complicated and takes a long time, so I typically default to doing only 1, 2 and reload positions when I dont have much time to study the stage.
In CO, Why Use a DA/SA Gun?
in USPSA/IPSC Shooting
Posted
Sig X5/Legion with Grayguns trigger is totally fine by me, i don't feel hindered with the trigger at all. Weight is about the same, but I suspect the CZ may flip up less during recoil because of its design characteristics.