m700
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Posts posted by m700
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On 5/20/2023 at 7:57 AM, Sigarmsp226 said:
Brass will split over time based on how mush it is stressed. It is not recommended that you try and braze this case for reuse.
A tube of brazing rod is about $125. Assuming you have the torch already, you could probably repair a few thousand with that 1 tube. So it may not pay off for 1 of us to do it but if we all send our split cases to 1 guy the math is there for some savings.
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16 hours ago, ysrracer said:
I wonder if that would work on a new Corvette?
you'd be better off asking the government for your money back
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I just switched over to 223 on my 1100 for the first time. I had always been on a 650(no problems there) but last weekend I finished jumping and had issues with the bullets getting stuck above the full sensor. Now I will try this Thank you
I had bent the switch arm a little which made my results improve marginally. I went from not working at all to getting stuck on every 10th.
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Nice setup. I just printed one I made on Tinkercad for my 1100 Havent tried it yet but the walls are a nice touch. Im not sure if ill have any issues.
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The easiest thing to do in that situation is to remove the 2 screws and look at whats going on
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Alternatively get this and your powder will be perfect.
https://www.parkermountainmachine.com/product/ultra-jttc-and-barrel-for-glock/
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When I was a kid you would right all the companies and say for example you bought a case of sodas and 1 was empty. They would usually send you a case for free. Try it maybe get a free case of ammo.
In the mean time gorilla tape
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On 5/12/2023 at 4:55 PM, Tampa-XD45 said:
To temporarily stop primers from loading, I just pop the spring off. It takes 2 seconds.
Touche. I was thinking about my 650
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Also check there is no debris on the shuttle that would stop it shy of grabbing the new primer
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2 hours ago, jt1207 said:
Yes, I'm very pleased with it, thank you. My friend recommended to not go all the way up the backstrap with the silicone carbide so as to make it easier to shift my grip when hitting the mag release for reloads and I'm glad I took his recommendation.
I ran it up. I didnt know any better. I was going to try and grind off the whole thing as there are some imperfections, cerakote the whole thing along with my lockwood slide and redo the carbide job. Either that or Carbide brass scales of an axg.
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Thats much cleaner than mine. I did it myself a couple years ago. Its amazing how mine feels good and look like crap at the same time. Yours looks nice and im guessing it feels good too
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AA2 is a good powder for what your looking to do in the same family. It meters pretty well, its very fine.
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There has to be a better way to deal with the primer arm attachment point. Im only 5k in on my press and ive had it move on me 3-4 times. The tape sounds like a good ideaI may mark mine with a tubing cutter next time I have it slide on me.
Either that or make up a replacement for the top block that is 2 piece and put a nub on the primer tube that it can register on.
Is there a safety reason why it slides?
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20 minutes ago, xrayfk05 said:
I'd start loading and see what you need, it's easy to spend a lot of money only to find out you didn't need it.
e.g. the Case stop feed, an empty .357 case works just as well, the primer feed stop is only need when setting up the press, removing a single screw will do the same. (And if you setup the press without primers you will hardly ever need it)
Find someone with a 3D printer or buy one yourself and you can make a lot of those things yourself.
The one thing I would recommend getting is the powder measure quick detach if you find yourself switching powders a lot.
Funny, I found the exact opposite. Ive heard alot of people say the same but when I wanted to clear the plate I liked stopping the primers/cases. That way new primers werent having to be reloaded or new cases weren't heading through without primers. And I have quick detaches for powder and dont feel it saves me too much time.
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On 5/2/2023 at 7:51 PM, OpenshooterMclass4lyfe said:
I’m thinking of getting a 750 with a casefeeder and a bullet feeder
I’ve been using a 550 for the past 3 years and decided to upgrade. I was thinking a 750 because it has the lifetime warranty, I’m familiar with Dillion products and if I desire later on I can make it automated.
I know the casefeeder and bullet feeder are already great add ons for the press and will make reloading much easier then the 550 was but I was wondering what other accessories should I grab to go with the 750 to get the most out of the setup.
Snowshooze had a great setup on ebay but I think he is done
I would suggest a
case feed stop
primer feed stop
cam roller bearing
Spent primer funnel
Armonov has a decent kit that has a bunch of useful things in it
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If you need zirc fittings there are walkthroughs I've come across in the past to drill and tap them in otherwise this works fine.
https://www.jbtools.com/astro-pneumatic-101-mini-grease-gun/?wi=off
550 is a great machine you will be happy. Even when people upgrade most keep their 550's
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Keep that note
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The Athena is a goddess. My buddy has one and it is a dream to shoot. I ended up with an Erebus. the workmanship in the AGW guns is amazing.
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22 hours ago, Drillbit said:
I am not certain which model the 550 presses are, or the 650. How do I identify them, is there a model number somewhere?
Not that im aware of
The 550s differ as I described above
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I believe if you google it most people identify them by what options are there.
550s
550-
550 b- same as original with failsafe system for powder measure
550c The upper link arm pivot pins are now threaded in place, and have a grease groove around the pin that connects with a lube hole on the end of the pin. You can use a needle fitting on a grease gun to lubricate the upper pivot pins now
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75-80 is fair as mentioned. But shipping can be a problem. local is easiest so they can pick up but the 550/650 may cost $100 the 1050s may cost 150 to ship. Package them well. I would start with advertising them as local pickup then open to wider sales. The 550/1050 dont accessorize the same way as the 650. If the 650 is loaded be aware that may be 1200-1400 not what is listed for a bare 650. Powder and primers will be anb easier sale. If you list primers at $75/1000 they will be gone today. same with powder both of those I would either ship in largish batches(I think it has to be under 25#s and has to be labeled or setup for local pickup.
You may also want to package cleaning stuff/scale/etc with one of the 550s to offload that stuff all at once to someone looking to start, depending on whats there.
Sorry for your friend. Ive thought about how my wife would get rid of all my stuff, we dont make it easy for them.
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Your probably not shrinking. They were probably short new. They sell them like that so you can go a couple reloadings without a trimming. You would need to press pretty hard on the shoulder to shrink the length. I would think there would be signs if that were the case.
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On 4/5/2023 at 4:15 PM, HOGRIDER said:
With regards to the Redding Micrometer Seating Die, make sure you have completely disassembled the die and thoroughly cleaned and removed the "preservative" prior to using. Some reloaders have noted sluggish operation and inconsistent OALs due to failure to fully clean. (see attached file for disassembly)
Also, removing the internal spring (above the seating stem) will result in more consistent OALs.
HTHs!
I didnt know this was a thing. I have micrometers on 3 rifle seating dies and I dont run them because I couldnt get consistant.
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Ya but who reads all that
I didnt realize it until i got it in the mail
1 hour ago, HOGRIDER said:Per DAA, modifications are needed for older MBFs built prior to 2018..............
I didnt realize it until i got it in the mail
Cleaning and Lubing 650
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
All 1 caliber? I usually load 3500 and move to another caliber. I do a quick clean and lube at each of these. Not a full teardown. Until 15k or so