m700
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Posts posted by m700
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One shot is fine with pistol loading. I dont think it does the job on necked cases. something lanolin/alcohol based works better for that. I had a few cans of one shot but once they were used up I stick to the DIY stuff
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I have their 9mm die as well as a bunch of others and they work great for me. The decap pins seem to be much stronger than the dillons. I have only had 1 pin break on 223 that had a rock in it. dillns broke on me more frequently and shaft bent once or twice.
I had 1 bad body that for some reason failed to thread into the toolhead. He replaced it promptly and I'm pressing on.
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The priming system is definitely different. The 650 uses a rotating disc and the 750 a shuttle. I find the disc is more reliable but a tad more dangerous. Another con to the 650 is if there is no case to accept a primer the primer is launched across the room( it slides down a "Ski Jump", I had replaced mine with a small bottle that collects unused primers. the 750s system uses a bent metal bar that guides the shuttle in and out. The pro to this is that its safer, you are less likely to have multiprimer detonation.You also only pickup a primer when there is a case to use the one thats on the shuttle. The con is the shuttle has to be kept clean or it will start to bind. Also the bar can lose its bend. This happens on the 550 as well.
The 750 has a little more height so it loads to a size or 2 larger. I load all rifle save 223 on 550 or single stage so this doesnt effect me.
All blue presses hold value very well. The used ones you see may also include extras. you can double the cost by adding all the accessories.
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Are these primers fully seated? It would be a pain to have to cut primer pockets to get yourself that distance.
Do these rounds go boom in your other guns? A stiffer spring may solve this.
I had a Shadow 2 that liked short rounds. I ended up selling it over getting barrel throated. I dont take s#!t from my guns
The only issues ive had with primer height was a large handful of 223 had high primers(not fully seated) First attempt would seat them second would fire them. This was alot easier then pulling them.
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The chrony isn't necessary unless you load to max or beyond. If you stay in the range, FOR THE CORRECT BULLET, you will be safe. If you are pushing for major then get a chrony. Other than that if you are aiming for extreme consistancy it would also be nice.
For pistol I load to function/accuracy not PF so I never hit max loads.
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I emailed them about getting an optic cut cover. They responded not at this time. I ended up building it with an SRO.
The build tolerences were tight enough that the barrel and slide cannot both be coated. I had to blast the barrel back to raw.
Final build
AXG grip
Lok Brass grips including back
Armory craft trigger
Armory craft magwell
Armory craft Thumbrest takedown
Springer extended mag release
Cerakoted mostly tactical grey with Magpul OD green on the trim. Ill get pictures up.
Now I just have to send it off to Sig armorer
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Ive been using VV n350. Apparantly the trick is a little bit slower burning powders for comps
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I just built the lockwood. The build quality is very high. Tollerences are very tight. I cerakoted it and was not able to put the barrel in with both coated. I had to blast the coating off the barrel to get it in. I have not shot at paper to get an idea of accuracy yet, but the groupings seemed very good on steel.
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I also metered poorly with varget on a dillon. I use it a bunch in 6.5 and 308 but only by hand.
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I would put Snowshooze stuff on any press I had. Unfortunately I dont see his stuff around anymore
Grand slam kit gives the following.
Primer off switch
Brass off switch
Index bearing
Bearing on the rod that indexes the case feed
Detent ball and spring
And im pretty sure there is an Olite washer for the main bolt
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On 6/19/2023 at 6:01 AM, jim vaughan said:
Your problem is the combination of a 550 and a casefeeder. There is nothing to hold the case bottom once it is in place for sizing. The solution is to :
- trade up your 550 for a 650 and transfer the case feeder across.
- use the Dillon sizing die as it has the largest taper that I have found.
- invest in a rollsizer whereby all of your brass will be correctly sized, unlike using normal sizing dies.
I agree with this. Most of those are large investments though. I would look for dillon die and if you cant get one(not sure if they are still backordered) Mighty armory die may do the trick.
The next best thing would be getting a 650. The case feeder was an afterthought on the 550
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I dont think so but if its been in there for a long time there is a lot of surface area that could have surface rust.
you say theres no thread on the press is there a thread (aside from the last 3/4") on the handle?
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Batteries arent that pricey in bulk. For whatever reason 2032's are $8 each or 10 for $9. I have 3 SROs oldest being almost 2 years and the newest 6 months. Im thinking ill start doing a yearly swap.
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On 6/18/2023 at 10:54 AM, Tom S. said:
Maybe... but if you try to lube me up, there's gonna be trouble!
I NEED tlc, Im not giving any away
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I have 15 small tubes, 10 large, and a DAA vibraprime. But this would be ideal
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Wow thats a win if it works. How would you alarm for no primers?
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Something like this may work for you . It definitely will stick to brass
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P320 triggers
in Sig
I have a GG comp kit on its own and it is a great improvement over stock. I have another that had the GG kit then sent to Sig armorer which has a slight improvement over the GG kit. I also have a GG kit with a Armory craft trigger sent to SA. My next one will be straight to Sig armorer with AC trigger.
I have not done any with the SA kit yet. For a little more then the price of the kit you can send it in and have a little fine tuning done. the only downside is you dont get the extra springs to tune yourself. But in reality I wouldnt likely feel the need to move away from his tuning.
I think either the GG kit or SA kit will show the most marked improvement. Super fine tuning may give you a small improvement over either but not nearly as much as dropping either kit in.
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On 6/6/2023 at 1:00 PM, rishii said:
After reading this thread, I decided to lube my 650 which I have never done since I got it 7 years ago and holy crap was it crudded up
i ended up tearing it down and it runs smoother, I guess the moral of the story is as good as Dillon presses are, they do need some TLC every now and then
Dont we all
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3 hours ago, LMS said:
You are absolutely correct. On the other hand, if Sig came up with it, they'd have to admit something was wrong, rather than the present stance of saying "it's your bad reloads causing the issue".
It's odd - one guy I know who had a blowup said his call to Sig couldn't have gone better, the person he talked to even said include the optic when sending it back and they'll replace that too if it needs it. Another guy I know said the person he talked to was accusatory and had to be persuaded into warranteeing it. I'd love to hear the conversations going on at the highest levels there....
I wonder if its how you start the conversation. Though i'm very pleasant on the phone and never get anything my buddy is awful to everyone immediately and he gets everything.
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2 hours ago, RangerTrace said:
ENos used to sell a scale that went to .001 and it was too much for a Dillon powder throw. It drove me crazy. The .1 is perfect for pistol ammo in my opinion.
Agreed, point was the cost for accuracy was poor
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I had dillons until I bought a chargemaster and figured i didnt need 2 scales. anything with +/- .1 gram or better will be fine as long as it has decent reviews.
Dillon has +/- .1 for $150 there are good rated scales for $50 on amazon with +/-0.001 g
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Arent winchester primers already a scam?
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I dont care about the lube for the most part. But I would think any change in burn rate from tumbling wouldnt matter much if you do the same thing every time. Whether it cuts your rate in half, doubles it, or makes no difference you prove the load for yourself after you do what you do to it.
Mighty Armory dies
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
Thats impressive. Was there any reason?