m700
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Posts posted by m700
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I have the Armory craft on 2 AXG grips and they function with all my Legion and original x5 mags. The AXG is different from the TXG grip but all mags worked well before and after the Magwell and in both my TXG grip and AXG. The build quality is very good.
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A good press cleaning helps with many things. But squibs could be devistating and you noticed it. Thats important. No squibs is better but recognizing them is an important skill.
I too vote no powder. Im not overly familiar with the LNL. But for me when I have any issue on press I take every case off it. The sized and deprimed gets chucked back in the case feeder. The prime put on the bench, the powdered dumped and put on the press. With a bullet feeder I remove the unseated bullet and dump the charge. With the seated and or crimped I cuck them in the pull box(depending where the issue occured). At the end of my session I put the primed case in at the powder drop and finish them.
Asside from what I do above I make sure there is a complete pull every time.
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I dont have one yet. Have you tried running a single case through to confirm its the ejection finger that's the issue. My finger required a little tweeking to get it to run perfect without the mark 7. you can loosen the hardware and move it
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I have the same process head essentially with the exception of expander. I process dirty with lube. Afterwords I wet tumble and store for later processing. Usually prep 3-5 k at a time then clean the press. The press doesnt seem any dirtier then when I cleaned prior to process, the dies included. When I say dirty I mean free of any rocks and no cases filled with dirt quickly scanned for bad cases.
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I would think if your loading a plinking round fast or slow powder will play less than at the hotter end. I would work with what you have just cut back the charge weight. Make a low end ladder box and make sure the ammo functions. Perhaps 20 of each charge until you find a keeper.
My erubus fires everything ive put in it. Its flatter with minor loads than light ones but they all work.
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13 hours ago, RedDotsOnly said:
Sweet build!
Thanks It came together nicely. Still havent had a chance to send it out as Ive misplaced the screws for the trigger. Once I actively look and find them It will be sent out.
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Mighty Armory also has one
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19 hours ago, IVC said:
Just a quick question about the powder, since I don't have any rifle powders at this time and would like to get one and stick to it.
How's H335 vs. CFE223? It's the same manufacturer and CFE223 is a bit slower and a bit cleaner. A grain extra per load, from what I've seen. Any other considerations between the two? I can get either at this time.
There are plenty of good powders out there each has its pros and cons. My buddy loads on cfe223 with no issues. I just put my load out as an easy starting point if you had access to that combo of components.
You need the die. Dillon has it available in steel. Which I believe should be perfectly fine as the brass is already sized and you should be lubed anyway. Its also less than 1/2 the price of the carbide one they have backordered. I believe dillon has issues with carbide suppliers. Or rather the carbide suppliers have issue supplying.
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5 minutes ago, dtuns said:
I'm getting just under an inch with this load and the hornady bulk 55 boat tail with canalure.
I didnt believe in a magic load but this one seems to work for a lot of people
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I loaded for precision with it for a long time but then I ran out of bullets and decided to try something cheeper, xtreme, and decided from there that im not looking for 1/4" groups. Im looking to blow 200 rds with 1" groups.
25 grains of H335 under a 55 gr. I started with this making 50 for testing. Second time out I made a ladder box and went right back to 25 grains.
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17 minutes ago, ddc said:
When I first got into reloading I was surprised to find out that primer depth was not adjustable on a 650.
It is one of the things I really appreciate about the 1100.
Its true that its nice to be able to control it. The downside is that it can be wrong. The 650 always gave me good depth. The 1100 has been fine for 5k so far for me but took a few minutes in the beginning to set. It does seem to hold very well.
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100% worth it.
Im on a 5000 round load now on my 1100. I run 2 toolheads. I do 0 sorting of headstamps. I will look for major defects when sorting it from other brass, loading it into bag for lube, watch it as it comes out of the case prep tool head, inspect after wet tumble, inspect after dryer, Inspect as it goes into case feeder second time, and as it comes off press the second time. each one of those inspections is quick(not thorough) I will also see them again as they get put in magazines. This will find most problem cases. I dont count loadings. I have about 20 gallons of 223 brass so it shouldnt be an issue.
I check my ammo every 200 rounds or so for powder weight and gauge it. Once the press is set and dies locked the only thing that may move is powder setting and my powder measures have held pretty well.
No clean
Prep head is decap die, Full length size in the swage station, dillon trim in station 7
Wet Clean
load head is neck expander in station 2, bullet feeder in station 7, seating dies 7, factory crimp 8.
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I do believe they are sealed but i am not sure.
My thought on the static is that it could build in the plastic bowl.
Maybe a small fan blowing over the brass after spraying could prevent this from happening. Ive never waited more than a minute or 2 after spraying.
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Im not sure if I missed something, the PAL hasnt been available for a while. I missed the boat a couple years ago and started with the FA, with limited success. It is much better than chicken pickin. I bought the DAA Primafill and have much better success. with either of those its about angles. You have to learn the angle to hold it to keep the primers single file.
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17 minutes ago, 4n2t0 said:
I preferer the disc primer system on my 650. I've never experienced a detonation but I've heard and seen that they can happen. I keep my press super clean and it rewards me with near flawless operation, although nothing's perfect. I have never done any of the mods because I don't find them to be necessary. Do I get the occasion primer down the "ski jump", sure, but that's around 1-3 per 2-3K. I stop most issues from occurring by loading with a medium-fast rhythm and watching the case drop where most problems start.
Get one of those. It will save you those 3 primers. It made it so clearing the plate was never an issue. if I ran out of brass/finished a run/ had a bad deprime/ whatever the case I could just clear the plate and not worry about a few primers dropping.
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How much is "a bit"? It wouldnt take much to poof, but it shouldnt take long for the Hexane to clear. My use of one shot has always been about 100-150 cases of 9mm or so with about 2 mississippi's into a ziplock, shake, pour into feeder. I do top off bullet feeder/powder/primers before restarting. The electric motor doesnt really have direct contact with anything. Could it be static?
MSDS
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Dillons trim die your using is a sizing die. for the outside of case. Neck tension would have to be done separately if needed but Ive never needed it. A factory crimp after seems to uniform tension for me
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You dont have the washer in do you?
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If you need to I would think a 5 minute epoxy would do just fine. make sure you dont get it everywhere though
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23 hours ago, dtuns said:
I use one shot on 9MM and .223 brass with zero issues.
I find it binds on necked cases.
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3 hours ago, IVC said:
That's not a good way to be safe. The load data will rarely be for the exact bullet you're using, let alone for the current batch. Bullet molds change over time, processes change, materials change. Not to mention the load data is based on the specific barrel the manufacturer uses, so while you might be safe in the sense that the gun won't blow up, you're diminishing your safety margin (you don't even know where it is) as the peak pressure and the muzzle velocity could be anything.
Chronograph is necessary, and so is watching for the signs of overpressure. Even if you get the expected muzzle velocity, it doesn't mean that the pressure was safe at all times during the burning process. In this case, the more you know and observe, the better. Sure you can get away with doing less than is prudent, but that's not, well... prudent.
Most manufacturers will post data. If you are casting or buying bullets that arent posted loading like for like isnt going to get you in too much trouble. But a Blue Bullet RN 147 like you said will not build the same pressure as another say a DG RN 147. But as long as you are on the lower end of the data shown for the oposing one you will not get in Big Trouble. A chrony will give you more information but a beginning reloader doesn't need to run out and buy one if he is aiming for a functional round. Id venture to say 90% of reloaders are not using a Chronograph. I have one and use it though
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On 7/28/2023 at 1:07 PM, sharko said:
I have both and, I've had the 650 for 25 years or so and just got the 750 a couple years ago. And as m700 has said the primer system is different. I like the fact that the 750 doesn't drop primers if you cycle without brass but then I 3-D printed a flip to side cam for my 650 that allows me to turn off the primer feed too. I don't like where the primer feed is on the 750, out front and gets in the way of other things. I thought the 750 would work better for priming because that was the claim but it really doesn't and that stupid rod keeps popping out.
I currently do more on the 650, brass processing, sizing and priming and just do loading with already primed brass on the 750.
I don't know what he's talking about with more height, they are identical in that respect.
My only other nit about the 750 is the casefeed is in the back so I lost the use of my cabinets behind it. I guess I could just the the 650 mount bar and feed tube though and fix that.
Maybe im thinking of the 1050/650 difference on that
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Will bulged brass go through a shell sorter? Maybe we can get them to make a plate for it. I have only come across a small handful of them far less than 380 cases.
Maybe new brass for matches only would be affordable. all range pickup goes to practice.
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Like Shred mentioned I think its primer pull back. You can try replacing the pin, polishing the pin or lowering the die if possible. you may be able to find pins that are a bit longer or thinner
Powder Measure Baffle
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Is it available in dillon blue?