Bravo_Victor

Hello im having an issue with something someone can help me with. I installed a CZC Flat DA/SA trigger in my P01 Decocker with the CZC short DC and a CGW pro package. Everything worked fine, no issues with anything, slide on or slide off. Then i sent the frame out to get cerakoted as well as the slide to get milled, optic etc. Nothing else changed. Got everything back, polished the cerakote on the contact points and i reassembled it all like normal with nothing out of the ordinary except one thing: With the slide ON, if i manually pull the hammer back, it WILL NOT drop. DA works fine. If i pull the slide back to bring the hammer into SA, the hammer will drop. It will not drop when i put it in single action by hand. Now when its in that position and wont fire, if i pull the slide back slightly, the trigger bar will reset and it will fire. Not sure what the issue is or WHY it wont work all of a sudden when everything worked fine pre cerakote. No internal mods have been made after the cerakote. It seems like the trigger bar spring has plenty of tension and the screw is where it needs to be to hold it down. If i turn the gun upside down with the grips off, if i take a pick and pull on the trigger bar slightly towards the grip end, it clicks and i can pull the trigger. Any ideas? Mechanical? Cerakote buildup? CGW said it could be some paint buildup where the trigger sits but i havnt messed with it again bc of work. Thanks

I didnt wanna do anything crazy and im prob not going to do it but i wanted to see what options there were. CGW does stuff like this with and without the side windows:

Unless its not listed, i havnt seen anything for 75 series regarding slide cuts besides optic milling.

Out of curiosity, is there anyone out there besides CGW that does slide cuts to lighten the slide? I understand theres not much meat on the slide to do anything crazy.

SRO on my open gun has been fine after using it regularly since the 5moa came out. My only gripe is that if you have popple holes it can be annoying to clean bc the optics curved and you need some thin qtips to stick in there with a lens cloth to get the inner edges.

Ive tried HS-6, Autocomp, AA7 and Major Pistol. Hands down AA7 and MP. Dot barely moves.

I have an Akai middy V6 with tungsten sleeve, Titanium comp and PT EVO. All i can say is that the dot barely moves and the balance is great. Ive had open shoot who have all kinds of non tungsten guns shoot my gun and the first thing they say is Wow.

People go with whoever offers them the most. Theres usually no commitment

Im also going to take the optic and optic mount off to see if thats the issue

Ok so i put in a new 10lb, tried an 11 and for shits and giggles i tried an 8lb and came up with the same result, this: im somewhat convinced its just the load im using. I tried some of my production loads and it didnt seem to yield the same result. Still doesnt explain why the first shot is always so off and the rest are 3-4” groups at best. Im using RMR 124gr JHP which worked pretty well in my 2011 Open gun. My 2011 loads with this bullet were 9.9gr of AA7 @ 1.110 yielding 168pf and the CZ loads are 9.2gr of AA7 @ 1.080 yielding 168pf. I know it seems short but thats just how these bullets are. This is all off a rest at 20 yards, dot is perfectly still with no movement. The CZ is usually a tack driver.

Negative, the 95pf loads used an 8lb spring and the Major loads use the usual 10lb factory spring. I’ll toss a cajun 10lb in there and maybe an 11 to see. Just weird bc the same factory spring didnt have these issues.

Ill try this

Its from a rest and is rock solid

Ok so i have a Czechmate, which always shot fantastic. Moved to a 2011 and havnt shot it in a year with major. Shot some light steel loads at a few steel matches, then converted it to Iimited and shot some 95pf loads at a few steel matches using 100gr plated Berrys bullets. Now my 2011 is out of action so i converted my CZ back to open and began to zero it at 20 yards. Heres the issue. Every single time, in a 3-4 round group after i load the mag and chamber a round, the first shot is like 4-6” high and slightly to the left. Everything after that is POI/POA to some extent bc even those rounds are 1-2” apart but atleast its still hitting where its supposed to. I can replicate this every single time. What could be the issue? Ive read all kinds of theories like barrel lockup, extractor, barrel fit etc but why would this be such a sudden thing? Any idea?

Heres a good reason to have a backup: Today i noticed the inside of my barrel cracked, a few days before a Level 2 sectional. Now i have to shoot a completely different platform im borrowing from someone.

Well for me it was maybe 1-2 rounds out of 300ish and with an upright Cmore slideride. Mine wouldnt eject straight out and would get caught in between the mount and the ejection port. I had bought all extra parts before hand and just slapped it in there. Why send it back and wait 3 weeks for a simple fix?

Thanks, wonder why the stock front is so damn short. Ugh

Anyone know if the cutout for the rear sight/racker on the CM is the same as the other TS models? My stock sights shoot high like 4-5” and it seems like the rear sight is way too tall for the front, or vice versa. Someone suggested .205 fiber from dawson with the rear sight, so i got one and its no s#!t 8” high at 20 yards. I think the stock is .240 which is still too low. Kinda just want to replace them both and get a set but i wasnt 100% sure its the same cutout as the other TS.

Around 8

Yeah once i put an aftec extractor in, it was fine.

I have an Akai V6, i use 9.9gr of AA7, no powder spillage and it reach 170pf. Super flat but very concussive. I was using 8.1gr of HS-6 with the same PF but the AA7 worked better imo.

Have you tried major loads or were they all minor? Mine was super tight at first too but i was also shooting 173ish PF from the rip with the factory 10lb spring. Id clean the hell out of it, and then lube up the rails and any contact points. Maybe watch TV and cycle the s#!t out of it for a while.

I agree, if i wasnt super anal about certain things this post wouldnt exist. Most importantly this post is reassurance that its the brass and not my press, althought ive read the same thing about mixed brass 100 times. I figured maybe there was something i didnt realize and i can fix it. Either way i chronod the real short ones today and they barely made a difference and there were no overpressure signs. Now my only concern is the longer ones with them chambering. Worst case scenario if i dont wanna sort brass is find the longer ones in the bunch and cycle them back after adjusting the die. Luckily i have the redding comp die lol

I might start sorting a little bit. I have 5k brass ready to load. So far ive noticed blazer brass being on the higher end of the spectrum but RP being kinda wonky.

You are correct. It’s slightly compressed. Minor i have no issues with. But i find it strange that i had barely any OAL issues with all Hornady brass but with same headstamp of other brands i have much more of a variation. It is what it is. I already have to load short bc my barrel isnt reamed so my worry is getting a long around that wont seat all the way.