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regor

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Posts posted by regor

  1. 1 hour ago, MikeBurgess said:

    Oddly for all KCs ability to bend time he finished nationals 1.5 seconds faster than Christian. but shot 3% less points and had 2 extra Mikes. 

    I think that at the club level most people say shoot for 90%+ of points and you will be fine but Charlie is correctly spelling out that that doesn't work at the top level of the game, and while 92% of points may seem pretty good, compared to Christian it doesn't work. In the end this game is Points/Time but the first thing is having enough points for the time to matter.  

     

    An even better example is to look at limited,  Shane finished 7.12 seconds faster than Mason, and 8.16 faster than Browning, but once again accuracy is the difference.

     

    Last year's Open nationals was a good example too. Christian was 13 seconds behind JJ but had better hits and only 1 M (vs 6). Looks like Christian closed the speed gap this year and kept the hits high to widen the overall gap a little. 

  2. See this thread: 

     

    The easiest route is to get the CZC "long" extensions and add them to 18 round CZ75 mag bodies, which should get you 25 rounds, but they aren't 170mm. 

     

     

    @Ludde has some prototype 170mm extensions that he first showed off in the CZ Open Build Theory thread. Not sure if that is anywhere near getting a production run. 

     

     

     

     

  3. I bought a couple spare Czechmate optic mounts on here about a year ago, and one of them came with a mystery thumb rest. I would love to figure out where this came from so I can track down a second for my backup. It has a small nub on the top that sits in a divot drilled in the optic mount to keep it secure and I really like the size and the position is perfect for me compared to the factory thumb rest. The inside is not threaded but it fits a M4 bolt pretty much perfectly, though I did have to turn down the socket head to get it to fit. 

     

    Any leads appreciated. 

     

    No description available.No description available.

     

  4. Shot this today for a 92.1% in Open, which should bump me to M class. This is a really fun classifier and my second highest to date. 

     

    77 pts, 6.76 seconds, 11.3905 HF. Probably could have had a GM run but fumbled the reload pretty badly. 

  5. I take the upper off and barrel out of my primary probably every ~3k rounds and wipe the old grease and oil off mating surfaces and reapply. I also scrape away any substantial buildup of gunk in the trigger/trigger bar/sear cage area and anything near the breach face, then reapply oil and grease and put it back together. The last time I did this I also took out the FP and FP spring on my Czechmate and found that the FP spring was broken, so I will probably continue to check that going forward when I do my basic cleans. Only ever do deep cleans if I need to take the gun down for some other reason like swapping a trigger or internal spring. 

     

    For mags, I'll brush them after a match if I shoot anywhere dusty/sandy, but most of the ranges I shoot at have gravel or hard packed dirt and mags usually don't get too dirty. When I do brush them I also give them a light external wipe down with oil to keep surface rust away. 

  6. I have found round nose bullets to be substantially more reliable in my Czechmate than JHPs. Even after tuning my mags I would get occasional nose dives from the first couple rounds in my big sticks.

     

    I also use the OEM followers because they seem to keep the stack aligned better as it crosses the border between the mag body and extension. I found I got 29 rounds in my 170s either way just with a little extra play, and I could squeeze 24 in with the CZC/Grams followers but it wasn't reloadable so I'd be loading them with 23 either way. 

  7. 13# with a reduced power FP spring should light everything off, including stuff like the hard Wolf primers. 11.5# should be 100% with all the soft-medium primers (Federal, Win., Fiocchi), but I had maybe 1/50-1/100 light strikes with factory ammo like S&B.

  8. CO is the most subscribed division for the upcoming WA state championship, over 1/3 of the 157 competitors. 

    Division
    Limited 26
    Limited 10 1
    Open 32
    Production 7
    Revolver 3
    Single Stack 6
    Carry Optics 55
    Pcc 27

     

    2019 match had more competitors (215), but fewer CO competitors: 

     

    Limited - 50 

    L10 - 4

    Open - 36

    Production - 19

    Revolver - 3

    SS - 12

    CO - 43

    PCC - 48

  9. Put about 500 rounds through it after re-zeroing and adding a nail polish witness mark and checked at the end of the match I shot this weekend and it was still dead on + no signs of a shift in the witness mark. 500 rounds is hardly a thorough test, but I am cautiously optimistic that it will continue to hold. 

  10. 11 hours ago, vgdvc said:

    Is it just me that feels it's ridiculous that we on this post (and I'm sure there are more out there) have paid about $500+ for a very basic type of optic that can't seem to have reliable windsge and/or elevation adjustments?

     

    Agreed, it is ridiculous that an optic with a MSRP of $660 does not have rock solid locking mechanism. In this case, having the elevation be entirely dependent on the tiny bend in a little piece of metal to keep it secure seems the opposite of reliable and repeatable. Vortex has external locks on several of the MRDs and are half the MSRP and 1/3 of the street price, so I have a really hard time believing that adding locks is cost prohibitive. 

  11. 23 hours ago, Mariavs said:

    Has this position changed since 2015?! 

    I'm wanting to build my tac sport into an open gun.... Do all the checkmate parts fit now?! 

    Do you have any tips for me?! We can't import a full on race gun. So building one is our only option at this stage. 

     

    CZ Custom sells a 1/2x28 threaded barrel for the tactical sport that you could get a compensator for. https://czcustom.com/czc-brl-thrd-9mm-ts.html

     

    If you don't want to do any machining work that's pretty much your only option, as far as I am aware. 

     

    If you can do some machining work then you could look at the following two threads for ideas. 

     

     

  12. On 9/8/2020 at 6:17 AM, alien_pickles said:

    All of the clubs in my area have been running 19-04 recently. It's a solid stage. I'm concerned the ones coming out of 2020 nationals are looking very similar to this one and 19-01

     

    Any video links to the potential classifiers from 2020 nationals? 

  13. Took mine apart and took the brass plate off from the rear. I’m pretty sure @Lastcat is correct that the brass plate is what secures the elevation adjustment. With it off the elevation spins with very little effort.
     

    The little threaded protrustion in the back center is the elevation adjustment screw. You can see a little nub sticking out of it. That goes through a small hole in the brass plate,  and the bend in the plate adds tension to the elevation screw when the plate is screwed down. As far as I can tell that is the only mechanism for keeping the elevation adjustment secure.
     

    I added a little extra bend to the plate and it did make the elevation adjustment noticeable more stiff, though it still doesn’t have clicks. 
     

    Be very careful with the brass plate’s screws as well as the screws for the optic baseplate; they are very soft and very likely to strip if you try to tighten them too much, which is unfortunate because it really limits how much extra bend you can put in the brass plate. 

    A4C6DA24-C551-4BBA-BE53-A6565A24AC5A.jpeg

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