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I never really noticed the shiny stuff on my shoes but wow its does have some bling factor..... I know I know I broke the 180 and then swept my face......

We were 1200 miles from San Diego and 600 plus from Cabo. Within 250 miles of some of the french atolls........

Answer number two is correct... The bore is way off center. I couldn't get the flash turned off on my camera to take the pic and the glare sort of masks the offcenter bore but its way off. The streaks you see are just some wad fouling that I hadn't gotten to yet...

Saw the white bass pics so had to add a couple of my own.......

This is an old Winchester 1200 defender I was cleaning up for a friend of mine and noticed this.... It's really noticeable just looking at it. Its kinda hard to pick up in the pic....

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I see it Joe... You drilled out the blind pin they use for the trigger and moved it.... I had thought about trying this a couple of times... I have a couple of spare trigger bars laying around. I might have to do it.. My favorite combo is the lower angle on the nose with a stock trigger return spring, rp striker spring and a 8lb connector, and a slightly modified trigger bar, yields right around 2.5lb trigger. The 8lb connector seems much crisper to me than the 3.5 which feels vague to me..... A question for you Joe... Do you drill all of the way through the trigger or are you just drilling a blind hole and pinning it... Any and all info would be much appreciated...

My kkm glock barrels have very similar support compared to the stock barrels. The only "fully supported glock barrels I've seen are the KKM "Nagel" version of their 9mm barrels. .... The feedramp does not enter the chamber area at all.... Maybe John will chime in.. As you can see many of the box stock barrels have unsupported chambers http://www.glocktalk.com/attachment.php?postid=3440870 Sorry about jumping off the topic... The answer is yes to your question they are slightly better supported than the stock barrel. Not fully supported but better...

I would have much preferred to get a g34 or g17 but to just try there is a big difference in $120 and $550-600....

You may have to do a quite a bit of lightening on your 24 slide to get it to work... If all you use are 165+pf loads you may be OK. Whose comp are you using? I'm finding with my stock KKM comp there is still way too much muzzle flip to make it worthwile. The 9mm is snappier than a .40. The 24 length slide just seems to cycle so slow compared to something shorter.... If you like how it feels though thats all that counts. I started witha glock 35 length for my 9mm major open glock and endedup with a 22 slide.... The recoil itself is negligible.... Muzzle flip is snappier or more violent than compared to a non comped .40 or .45 even at a higher power factor ie 170-185.

Look up Miwall ammo on google. Their .40cal 165 grain stuff made right around 150pf last time I chrono'd it. That is for their new manufactured loads under their own brand. Their reloads are of similar pf....

There is only a half a millimeter difference on each side between the 9 and the 40. The extractor tensions against the rim of the case. The round is held centered long enough by the chamber for it to extract. Sometimes people have problems with the .40 ejector and the consistency of the eject. I've tried every possible combination of extractor, ejector and spring combo. I am currently shooting a modified extractor and extended ejector in my conversion. I increased the extractor engagement and tension and it works great. Before when I put a 9mm case on the .40 breechface it would just fall off. With the barrel on it it would stay on long enough for it to eject. Now with my modified extractor it holds the casing on the breechface by itsself.. I will try and post a pic.....

Sometime you have to change the ejector. If you buy a conversion barrel you do not have to change the slide. The od of the barrel will be of the appropriate size to fit you forty slide. I think its fifteen or twenty thousandths larger. Some of the conversions I've seen work without any mods..

You might want to check out ccr refinishing as well. He's done quite a few glocks. It depends on how detailed you want to get.....

I posted all of the specs in the Glock Forum. I will just get to the pics here. As close to an open gun as I could get on a budget. Ugly but it works.... [attachme t=755:attachment]

The electronic scales work great for sorting components ie brass and bullets. I use it for my benchrest and varmint shooting ammo. The run of the mill electronic scale has an accuracy of + or - .1 of a grain.. That is a lot in some of my rifles and even more so in a pistol cartridge... Your extreme spread can be as much as .2 grains. A 10-10 balance beam is always good to have to check your measurements on your electronic. I have a Denver Instruments electronic scale that measures to within .01 grains or .001 grains. I can't remember which. I use it to weigh all of my charges in my br rifles...

Here is my boat dog... She comes out everyday that I work..... This is her and her buddy....

Got to do some chrono work today and came up with a load that didn't seem to sketchy in my glock. When I got to 9.4 grains I stopped after three rounds due to excessive primer flow. Specs are glock 22 length barrel with kkm comp. Hodgdon HS-7 federal small rifle 124grain winchester fmj's OAL 1.138 will be switching to either zero's or mg's after these are gone... conditions sunny 70 degress farenheit about as close to sea level as you can get.... Started at 7.5 grains right around 1150fps and worked my way up in .2 grain increments 8.9 grains was giving me a 1348 average for twenty rounds with a sd of only 8fps. This is the load that I came up with at the end of the day. I will probaly stick with this or back off .1 grain. Oehler 35p with the screens setup 20 ft from the muzzle...

Plenty good for me 25 yards off a barricade....

Got my 9x19 major running today... She had been working on and off for a couple of months but just couldn't get everything working together ie would feed but wouldn't extract or would extract then wouldn't feed. Finally got it all worked out and with a load that makes major to boot... The 9.2 grain load makes it easily but I had a 8.9 grn load that barely makes it right around 1348 to 1350. I used a G22 slide with the caliber conversion to get the larger OD barrel. I am going to try and post more pics in the gallery forum so look for it there if you are interested.... I may be switching to a carver mount to get the cmore closer to the bore. I am also thinking about ordering a comp from Brian H here on the board one of his 3 or 4 port ti comps would do the trick I think.... Other than that she runs great..... Glock 35 lower OEM Glock 22 slide with DIY lightening DIY blast shield ugly but functional DIY frame contouring DIY finger groove removal and nonskid replacement DIY Modified OEM trigger bar aka Dale Rhea type DIY Modified OEM ejector also compliments of Dale Rhea's article Dremeling DIY Modified OEM extractor T.H.E. magwell KKM 40/9mm barrel and comp T.H.E. extended mag release T.H.E. tungsten guide rod ISMI 13lb recoil spring cut 5 coils Wollf 4lb striker spring 8lb connector in conjunction with the rp striker spring and modified trigger bar yields a 3lb trigger. With a 3.5lb connector it is right around 2.25lbs but gives a more vague break compared to the 8lb connector that gives a very crisp feel.. GLockmeister optics mount Cmore slide ride NHO slideracker Oehler 35p with screens setup 20ft from muzzle

Sounds good. My compd 9mm glock would hit the ejection port with the comp on but wouldn't without the comp... I ended up lowering the ejection port just a tad and most of the problems went away. Hopefully some slide lightening will get you to where you want to be.... The comp sounds like it is bleeding off too much pressure. I tried putting a 17lb recoil spring in and the gun turned into a single shot... The slide would move back maybe half an inch and then just slam back shut with the empty in the chamber..... It was spotty with a 15lb and a 13lb ismi. I ended up cutting a 13lb ismi spring like 4 coils and it seems to work the best this way... Plenty of tension to keep the slide and barrel locked up when pulling the trigger and enough to close the slide fully into battery.... They are all different so take it for what its worth....

Any new reports on your gun Chris?

That is a totally different problem I have already gone through with an open glock. What loads are you using? Is the brass hitting the ejection port? Could be as simple as your comp is bleeding off too much pressure with whatever loads you are using. Are you shooting major pf loads or close to them? What kind of spring setup are you using? I colored the inside edge of my ejection port a different color so I could easily see the brass transfer if it was hitting the inside of the port. Then I would try shooting it without the comp to see if it is still ejecting the same. If you are using factory ammo chances are there isn't enough pressure to fully cycle the gun. On mine if I try and use a factory recoil spring it becomes a single shot pistol. The action won't even open far enough for the brass to get jammed it just goes right back into the chamber. WHat barel and comp setup are you using? Need more info to try and figure it out. How much slide lightening have you had done? Is your optic slide mounted or frame mounted. These are also things that you will have to take into consideration......

Thanks for the info MS I tried my g34 upper on a g22 that I have with the complete trigger housing swapped over into the g22 and it ejects like a champ so it leads me to believe that there is something going on with my frame. Like you said I really didn't want to have to send it back to glock but it looks like it may be due. Just for information sake I also put my g22 upper onto my g34 lower with the .40 cal ejector and trigger housing and ejection was all over the place. So hopefully I ruled out my upper being the problem.. I will do some more testing and let everyone know how it turns out....... Michaels this is with factory ammo... Everyting from 147 grain subsonic to 115 and 124 fmj,. winchester, remington, pmc and fiocchi even some old imi ammo I had been shooting out of my comped 17.....

The take down lever is in the correct way. I havent' touched it since I've purchased the gun... I looked over the locking block to make sure it wasn't cracked with my loupe and it doesn't appear to have any cracks. I tried an extended ejector that I had made awhile back with a new 90 degree 5 degree extractor and new springs and it got a little better but still erratic. I would get 3 or 4 good ejections then the last shot would shoot straight up in the air. The brass seems like it is spinning coming out of the gun and only going about six or seven inches to the right and sometimes a little back... One mag I shot 15 rounds and they ejected in a complete circle, started at 3 oclock and just kept ejecting in a counter clockwise direction. This is killing me......