Chapo
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Posts posted by Chapo
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I had to take my g34 in to get tuned and get some work done so I made appointment to sit with Bobby. It intrigued me how he works out of a Very small but Crowded office but knows where Everything is. Lol. He is such a nice person. I assume he is very busy, but still took his time to sit with me for almost an hour and discuss my race gun issues. Here’s some of the take aways he mentioned to me:
1. No need to use small rifle primers on a race glock. He said that small pistol primers are plenty to fire the powder.
2. Speaking of powders, he mentioned one can use autocomp, hs6 and cfe pistol almost interchangeably as they have almost the same burn rate. In his shop he uses autocomp to fire and tune the guns brought to him.
3. He said that beveling and removing some material from inside the trigger well is becoming the norm in the glock racing community and it provides more space and comfort while accessing the trigger. I tried a gun with and without, and trust me, it’s a huge difference in comfort.
4. He said that lowering the ejection port is the most common fix to eliminating stove pipes in race guns with optic mounts.
5. My magazine wouldn’t click in unless I tapped it really hard which I was told to do by other forums. It worked, but upon mentioning this to Bobby he quickly looked at my pistol and noticed some of the grip tape was in the way as well as the mag well was not properly installed.
6. Speaking of mag wells, I bought the one from glock store and it came with a small gold plug. Well apparently this plug he said is a plug that Carver manufactures and sells to Lenny. And it is modified at glock store and sold like that. He installed one of the plugs he had there ( which BTW is longer and heavier than glocks) and the mag well came out perfect. He said mag wells are supposed to fit inline with the gun grip. If your mag well has some give or is not fully straight it’s not properly installed.
7. He said unless you are going to be trying different types of recoil springs, to add red locktite to the RSA screw so it doesn’t come off.
8. If you have a slide racker, the one that installs in the groove of the rear sight, Bobby suggests to drill a small dimple into the slide where the racker screw marks in order to prevent the slide racker from coming loose. Also use some blue locktite.
Well, that’s all I remember off top but hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.
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Thanks all!!
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I think the issue of why the case conformed so much to the barrel is that the rounds where reloads for 9mm major and where pretty hot.
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Happy to report that cerrosafe worked. But took me three tries to get it. The first two came out without the brass. Then I had an idea to drop the molten but add a screw in the middle in hopes that I could expand the molten and grab the brass. This worked perfectly. Used a drill to try and remove the screw but instead the screw head broke with all the torque of the drill, but I was able to insert a rod and remove the plug.
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Thanks all. Will try the cerrosafe next.
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Thanks. But this was the first thing I tried
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My case part is really Stuck to the barrel like crazy Glue like it has conformed to the barrel. I’ve done the heat, inserting 223 brass, dental pick, 45 and 40 cal brushes you name it. Has anyone tried inserting a 223 case with a bit of crazy glue, pounding it in place and after it dries try to remove it? I figure in worst case scenario a little spill will be removed by firing a few shots.
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Sort them and look for which head stamp?
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So The other day I received my new Mech Tech CCU in 9mm for my Springfield XDM. Shot a few rounds then all of a sudden the rounds wouldn’t chamber. I did everything under the sun to fix the issue. Nothing. Came home and stripped it and to my disbelief I see what looks like the top 1/4 of a 9mm brass stuck in the barrel. I mean it’s in there right. Tried heat but nothing. I’m afraid to keep tinkering with it and scratch the barrel. I’m sure there are tools to remove this but any feed back would be appreciated. Here’s an image of the problem.
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Man, I just gotta figure out what to do.
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Hello all. I have a concern and wish your input. I bought a heavy guide rod with adapter for glock 34 gen 4. Don’t remember the material but it is heavier than factory. I bought it a Wolff. Anyway, the rod has, if I remember correctly, one end flat not threaded and the other side a small screw where the springs feeds into. However, just took my gun to get cerakoted and when I got it back I noticed the rod that was installed had both ends threaded. Where the spring goes looks normal. But the other side the Flat side is also threaded. Was I punked?
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Are there any aftermarket side charging handle for the mech tech CCU?
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Thats right Whitefish! I will confirm next range visit.
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Guys, FYA, someone had this same issue and I found the remedy a gunsmith took to solve the issue. Below is an excerpt. I think this will be the fix to the problem. Will try and keep you posted.
A couple of days ago I worked on a problem with a G34 that was being used in competition. The owner brought me the gun with the complaint that it had developed a severe case of light- or no primer strikes. The gun had basically stopped firing, and it came about pretty quickly.
The parts and conditions involved were:
Ammunition: reloads, but the same batch used successfully in this G34, and being used successfully in a 9mm 1911.
Firing pin spring: aftermarket, light.
Firing pin safety: aftermarket, titanium with titanium nitride coating.
Firing pin safety spring: aftermarket, light.
Extractor: standard Glock
Examination of the gun showed significant peening damage to the aftermarket titanium firing pin safety, as illustrated in the attached photos by the arrows.
The photos show a new Glock firing pin safety, a well-used (over 1,000 rounds) Glock firing pin safety, and a well-used aftermarket titanium firing pin safety. This guy does a lot of shooting, I can only guess that this part had over 1,000 rounds fired. -
Just found this out. Upon closer inspection I just noticed this. The titanium coated plunger I bought from glock seems to be badly scratched and dented. The other in my hand is the OEM I replaced after shooting hundreds of rounds with it. I don’t see any markings or signs of wear. I just replaced it because it came on a kit. Not sure what could have caused this in the coated one. Could this Be the culprit of light primer strikes?
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Thanks to all. But based on range results today, I've concluded the frame weight had nothing to do with light strikes. In fact, I'm at a loss for words because I have to idea what the problem is, short of buying an extended tip striker (which is what I think will solve the problem ). Went to the range again having cleaned the striker channel and actual striker and having polished the barrel ramp, but nothing. I even tried shooting with out the compensator. I tried swapping the barrel for the stock one, you know, trying to cover all bases, but still light strikes. Tried removing the frame weight and shooting without it, but still light strikes. The only fact I can share are that these problems started after I got my gun back from being cerakoted. I thought there would be residue of paint in critical areas, but at least where I looked, everything seemed fine. Any ideas or help? I really have no idea what to do. I have a race gun that all it does is light primer strikes. Its no even that some of the rounds fire, its that 99% are light strikes.
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I got a 15lb spring. I’ll look into how tight the frame weight is. How does this affect?
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No not yet. I will though.
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I had this problem today. I was only able to load 17 and no more. Also, on another magazine with the TF extension, the spring got stuck in the compressed position and all the rounds were floating inside. Any ideas?
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Prior to adding the frame weight my open clock 34 was shooting fine. Then I added to frame weight looking to shoot flatter, but instead got failures to eject (stove pipes) and majority of my reloads were light primer strikes. I am using a 15 lb spring and my loads are 7.5 HS6 with a 124g RN berry bullet seated to 1.25 OAL. Like I said, no issues before with these bullets but after I installed the frame weight it all went south. Ohh, I need to mention that the gun was cerakoted, and not sure if barrel ramp needs to be polished. Do you think I need to change the weight of the recoil spring?
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On 12/21/2019 at 10:34 PM, terrymixon said:
Love it!
That is the stupidest video ever!!! No video of e actual press.
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Yeah. I use berrys 124 RN with HS6 and cycles great.
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Just got it back from cerakoting. Still gotta zero the sight. But with the frame weight it should be very flat.
So I met Bobby Carver...
in Open Pistols
Posted
Agreed