ekraus

Can you turn it on its side and take the picture? I shoot with another guy that also has the same problem. It's intermittent but it never happened before. I almost DQ'ed last night. I had to shoot out the last rnd twice. + the gun gets pretty dirty unlike the AR. I just looked at the extractor on a new hybrid bolt I have and hook is quite a bit more pronounced. I need to do more investigation.

Anyone having trouble with extraction? Manual bolt operation I have intermittent failure to extract. I stripped it and the extractor looks like its worn or the tip broke off. I have nothing to compare it to.

After all these years I fixed the primers all over the floor problem. Its going to take some tweaking but its fixed. I put a diaper on it.

So since I don't have a 10/22 and am not familiar with any of the trigger group parts. How about a list of 10/22 parts you use in the PC Carbine. And all I see is Brimstone the brimstone trigger and work on the Ruger 10/22 stock trigger. Does Brimstone make other 10/22 parts?

Pretty interesting I have the same issue . On my AR I have a vertical grip. And I find that I shoot it much faster although the groups are not as tight. I told someone else that I shoot with and has a Ruger I was going to try the AR this weekend.

For $61 you get the Hammer kit with an aluminum Trigger that has an overtravel screw. Or when you have it apart drill and tap the trigger.

I just got my Beartooth Comb Raising Kit 2.0. I spent almost 1 hour trying to get it to fit. Couple of things. Its to long for the Ruger stock. The thicker pads do not conform to the top of the stock pushing you head to the side. It worked, but my cheek weld with the 1/2" and 5/8" pad put the dot to the left of the window. I am back to my ugly stock until I find a stick on that is 1/2"

I am in agreement. The lever never worked for me. Flexed to much and actually jammed. After I took the lever off I put the button on the weak side. I shot 2 stages and on both running down the lane I moved my weak hand back and inadvertently dropped the mag. I moved it to the strong side and it works as should. Mostly doing a mag change is during classifiers. If a manufacture can make a lever works I am in. One other thing is I put the charge handle on and then took it off the Ruger works fine. I haven had a jam yet so the charge handle I believe doesn't need to be extended. The gun eats anything. Sub minor or even major. 100g to 165g bullets. All different loads and powders.

This is ugly.

I found a cheek rest that is made out of neoprene and can go from 1/8" to 5/8" that should put me on the center of the dot. Beartooth Comb Raising Kit 2.0 - Premium Neoprene Gun Stock Cover + (5) Hi-density Foam Inserts - No Loops Model - MADE IN USA

Yep. He made one for a friend of mines Ruger and then made one for me. I have an Alchin comp on one of my Ruger steel rimfire guns. Just some info for the rimfire guns. I was using CCI Standard Velocity and moved to MiniMags. More gas.

I have been noticing the groups that close (around 1") since I moved from 100g RNHB to the 115s. I shot 6 stages so far with the 115s. Distances are variable. Double tap groups are tighter then I have ever had with any of my guns. Other shooters are telling me the gun doesn't jump. Only thing I am changing now is the cheek plate and will make it more permanent. I am going to wait a couple more months before i start butchering the plastic.

I have a Taccom on my AR Carbine. I shoot with a guy that makes a 3 port that a bunch are using on there AR's. I like the Ruger much more.

I made a temporary cheek rest out of strips of yoga mat and athletic wrap. It sits up 1/2". It worked but I need a little bit more to get the correct view of the Cmore dot. Then i think I may get the Baretta Gel Tec cheek pad and put some adhesive foam from Wallmart under it to get it to the proper height and be done with that issue. My next project may be to cut a triangle out of the stock. The gun has great balance but its a bit heavy. I also think I finally found the load but haven't chroned it yet. 115g over 4.8g HP38 at 1.135. Using an Alchin Comp. Double tap groups are about 1". The guns is sweet!

I am considering making a stock but plate out of starboard in the shape of the MBX "Fang" . I have to almost hold the rifle on top of my shoulder to get a good cheek weld with a Cmore on the gun. Looking for ideas.

I put some Super Lube on it and got it to work a little bit but it was still hard to press. I am going to polish the edges to a mirror finish then try it again. For now put the button back on.

I re installed the lever being careful to rotate the lever as far down as it would go before tightening the screw. Attached is a picture of the lever being pressed by my trigger finger.

Rotated down? Are you saying press down on the top and in? You cant loosen the screw and rotate the lever down without removing the detent on the back of the lever. I agree with it being metal. The plastic flexes when pressed.

I have some observations on the Taccom Ruger PC Carbine parts. I got the Release Button, Funnel and Charge Handle last night. Took less then 10 minutes to put all 3 on the gun. The Funnel works as intended it angles the mag in quite easily. The Charge handle is much bigger than the stock one. Now for the Mag Button and the trigger finger release lever. Well I couldn't get the trigger finger release lever to work at all. The lever is about 3" long and when you press it all of the force is on the rear of the release button causing it to bind. I didn't even try to make it work. As far as the button its as fast as it looks like in the video but it got me into trouble 2 times last night at a match. All you have to do is brush it and the mag is gone. So it will take some getting used to. But if anyone has gotten the trigger finger release lever to work I sure would like to know how.

Its interesting reading all these posts and this last picture may resolve my issue. First I just finally installed the case feeder and love it.So the same thing that was happening without the feeder is happening with it. It's not the chute door getting stuck open its the primer when it falls hits rite on the left edge of the chute so some of them bounce out.. Without the case feeder the chute closed rides in 2 groves in the casting that attaches to the shell plate platform. On the case feeder system the chute (when it closes) is about 3/8" short of hitting the case feeder attachment. What Ganderman did by bending the lips of the chute out may help. I plan on modifying my chute with a partial aluminum collar extending it out 1/4". I hope the dam thing works. If i could just get the primers to drop more in the center, Or I maybe will try some rubber gasket material on the inside of the chute.May also mess with the de-capping pin.