jschweg

9mm 124gn cast, 4.6gn Unique @ 1.11 147gn cast, 3.4gn 231 @ 1.14 (830fps) Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

I've been using Federal primers in all my reloads since I started. I really like them because they don't give me any issues and always fit perfectly in all my mixed range brass unlike a few other brands that seem to be finicky. Something that has always bugged me is that they are as flat as a pancake on all my spent rounds. This has always happened with all my different combinations of powders and loads. Factory rounds don't seem to do this. I know my reloads are not particularly hot as all of them are within specs and validated on my Chrono, but is it because of the whole deal with Federal primers using a softer metal compound which results in more flattening? Just wondering if others are seeing this with the feds. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

I'm actually working on a W231 load with the Missouri cast 147 FP which looks to be basically the same bullet as the Bayou. My initial load of 3.3gn @ 1.14 was getting me about 830fps out of a 3.8 inch barrel. I've since gone up to 3.5gn, they shoot fine, but have not run those through the chrono yet. I'm just aiming to get them up to 130pf. I'm finding it to be a really soft, very accurate load. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Federals seem to be wierdly scarce. The LGS that I never think twice about having them hasn't had them in stock for a few months now Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Magnets won't have any negative effect on any modern electronic device. They can only have an effect on data stored on magnetic media like tapes and traditional hard drives (and that's even a big stretch to say you could wipe out a hard drive with a magnet). Everything inside of a smart phone is solid state and even a magnet exponentially more powerful than what's on your pouch wouldn't do a thing. No worries Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

The newer style Dillion dies with the quick release clips are awesome because it makes cleaning them a piece of cake, however I find myself missing the older style 2 piece dies which made finer adjustments easier. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Yes, I just randomly picked those numbers out of the air just to represent some sort of difference. Thanks! Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

Yeah, I get that part, but was more not understanding pressures and why a max load for lead might be a mid load for jacketed. Sarge explaining some of the gasses escaping around a jacketed bullet makes sense. Less efficiency with jacketed. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

I shoot MBC exclusively, I saw your post and measured 20 or so of the .356 coated 147s that I bought about a month ago, and every one of them came in at .3565 or dead on .3560 That being said, I've been buying MBC bullets before they started coating them, and the very first few batches I bought did have some size inconsistency, but it wasn't enough of a variation that it made any difference. I think they were just getting their manufacturing process squared away when they literally just starting offering the coating. Always been happy with MBC due to the crazy variety of bullets shapes and weights for a million different calibers. All the other standards like Acme, Bayou are great too though. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

This is more of a theory question than anything else, I just want to have a better understanding. Lead/Cast load data requires less powder due to both better sealing/conforming to the barrel and the less effort required to get the bullet going right? Okay, assuming that part is true, let's just say that 3 grains is the max safe lead load for X. For jacketed, it's 4 grains. So if the jacketed bullet is using more powder, and it's harder to get a jacketed bullet moving, wouldn't that create more pressure (not less) on a jacketed load? Why wouldn't 4 grains just blow the gun up? Secondly, coated bullets are all the rage now, and these coatings are pretty hard (obviously not as hard as a jacket though). As far as the reloading manuals go, everything is assuming uncoated lead or cast, the coatings aren't being taken into consideration yet. One would argue, or maybe not, that coated hard cast bullets are closer to jacketed now than anything else and that starting jacketed loads are fine for coated bullets. Thanks! Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. This is the exact same configuration that I'm going to have. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Actually that's really good to know. If you have a steel Magwell and the VZ's, then it sounds like I might need nothing. Not buying parts or anything, this is the sort of thing that I do to occupy my impatient brain while I finish saving for the gun lol Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Alright, I think I'll grab an aluminum rod from Dawson and call it a day. How long do the aluminum rods last before they have to be replaced? Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

I'm planning on buying an STI Trojan very soon for IDPA ESP and maybe USPSA SS. I have a question about weight, as I know it will be right around 42oz with the Dawson Ice Mag well on there. I really want to put VZ grips on it as well, but I know they are significantly heavier than the stock STI wood grips. Being that it will tip the scales with the grips, just looking for the best strategy for getting it in spec. I know that the steel guide rod is pretty heavy, would swapping that out to an aluminum version get me under? I know I could go with a GI setup, but I think I want to stay with the FLGR for now. According to IDPA rules, that change should be legal since I'm not making the guide rod any heavier right? Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Great, thanks! The bullets are from Missouri Bullet Company, these just have the Hi-Tek coating on their normal cast bullets. http://missouribullet.com/details.php?prodId=215&category=20&secondary=16&keywords= 3.4gr it is then. I'll see what that gets me. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Hi folks, I'm working on a soft shooting minor load and had a few questions. I'm starting with a Hi-Tek coated 147gr FP behind 3.2gr W231 @ 1.14 from 3.8 inch barrel Shot a bunch through the chrono and they were generally between 840 and 850 Accuracy was amazing, no jams, everything ran great. I figure I've got to get them up to 900fps, so I'm thinking about going 3.4gr. Do you think that will get me there? W231 is what I'm using since I have a ton of it, so no other powder options at the moment. This is the first time I've developed a load that isn't in any of the manuals (nothing for cast @ 147 with this powder), so I don't really know where the safe zone ends pressure wise. I know velocity is going to be a little tough since this powder is fast and just looking for a little experience from others. Thanks! Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

I recently found an unopened pound of Hercules branded Unique in my dad's basement purchased sometime in the early 90s. Threw it in the powder measure and loaded all of it into 9mm and it ran perfect. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

You know what, I think this is exactly it. I shoot two handed so much in an isoceles stance that I'm trying to shoot squared off one handed. If I'm shooting lefty and put my left foot slightly forward and lean into the target a little, it brings the sights right over to my right eye without feeling contorted. Seems so obvious now, thanks for the tip. Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk

I'm in a house, but a very small one. I don't have anywhere I can leave my press setup permanently, so I bolted the press to a 2×10, which then gets c-clamped to the kitchen table I've loaded thousands of rounds like this, you gotta make due with what you have. Go for it. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Thanks for the post, just to clarify, what do you mean by quartering your body off, sorry. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

I need some advice on some strategies for shooting effectively with the weak hand only. My weekly match this year has a stage shot with the weak hand only and it's not helping my scores. When shooting two handed or strong hand only, I've always been most effective in a squared off isosceles stance, and that's what I do. With the weak hand, I'm finding it really difficult because the gun is not lined up with my dominant eye (right). So either I have to move the gun to the right, cant it, or move my head to a somewhat uncomfortable position. All of this results in a somewhat straining position where my sights are drifting around like a rowboat in a hurricane. Should I change my stance for the weak hand, or do something else? Just trying to figure out how to get that "locked in" confident feeling that I have when shooting normally. Thanks for some help. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

I SO want this, but a more miniature version so it doesn't cost more than the STI Trojan that I want lol. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

After reloading 125s for a long time and trying some 147s as of late, I can honestly say I prefer the 147s. To me there is a fairly significant difference in recoil, it seems to me that the muzzle flips much less allowing me to get back on target faster. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

Thanks for all the replies guys, this helped. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk

I use 2 tablespoons of car wash soap, 1/4 tablespoon of lemishine, 5 pounds of pins and 4 pounds of brass in my Rebel 17. Sent from my Nexus 10 using Tapatalk