MJinPA
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Posts posted by MJinPA
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Will it work for a poor man’s back up gun? If so, what do I need to change on the frame...just the ejector? I know I can get a used 22 on the cheap but wondering if it can be done with what I have.
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No! obsolutely not changed in my charge. All the data are confirmed and no way for double charge.........
That’s all I got. I’m not a machinist or trained gunsmith so definitely interested to see what one thinks about the cracks
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Both cracked back to back?!? Any chance something changed with your load? I would think you’d know if it was a double charge but if they cracked back to back that’s definitely my initial thought.
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I recently went shooting on July 4th with my Uncle. I was instantly hooked into serious shooting, timing steel target shots, shooting drills etc. He has a fully kitted 9mm AR that is absolutely perfect in every way. I picked it up and went 4.20 with 6 targets down, no pick ups. Was ready to get my own. I have been researching a lot, and my buddy had two AR lowers so I bought them because he gave me a good deal. So I am now stuck on what to do next. My uncle has some spare parts, extra triggers, and stuff but nothing for the upper.
I currently own a beautiful Beretta .380 Cheetah that I would part ways with, I don't like how it fits in my hand, towards parts to finished this stripped Anderson lower. I have done some research on making those work in 9mm, and most were not happy with the results. I Want to stay in 9mm just for reloading purposed and ammo cost. Are there any 9mm Ar lowers that are out there recommended or up for trade?
Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Unless you really know what you’re doing, building out a 9mm AR with a standard lower will likely cause a lot of frustration trying to get it to run reliably. Either buy a complete rifle from JP, MBX, Sig, or even the Ruger PC9 or build it with a 9 mm lower.
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Field-expedient way to tell .38 Super from .38SC brass--- find a fired .40 S&W case and try to stuff the suspect .38 case in base-first. A .38 SC rim will fit, a 38 Super won't.
Once you get the hang of it, you can just slide your thumb over the rim and tell them apart.
This tip was super helpful! I have 500 (+a handful) of SC and only about 25 Super. I’m going to post the SC in the classifieds if anyone that helped out here is interested.
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Also, when reloading, sometimes the SC brass will pull through the shell plate used for 38S on the sizing station.
Yes. Sounds like I’ll have to sort [emoji22]This must be why 38 super shooters walk around looking like they lost a contact lens after shooting a stage.
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Maybe there’s a slight difference. So glad I don’t shoot this stuff. I’ll probably just selling as a mixed lot at a discount.
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I’m not seeing a difference.
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I have a bunch I’ve collected over the years that I plan on selling at some point. My question is...does it need to be sorted for the buyer or is it interchangeable? I can’t see any difference in the case besides headstamp.
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General fitness/weight training is important but you can also work in some movements that focus on the muscles you use when shooting. To do this, I will occasionally use a 10lb dumbbell that I grasp as close to a pistol grip as I can get and work wide transition and keeping the “gun” up when entering positions.
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I'm thinking about getting mine milled for CO but it sounds like a one-way street (not able to legally go back to USPSA production). I called CZC yesterday to get their input hoping I could use this https://czcustom.com/rds-plate-fixed-shadow2-sight.html but the sales person I spoke was not 100% sure if they could mill it light enough without making through cuts to the slide. Has anyone come up with a solution that makes CO weight and uses the CZC rear iron sight plate to go back to production?
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Thanks for the replies. I also got clarification from Troy on this. However, the person that setup this particular classifier saw PP in the stage procedure (not briefing) and assumed pepper popper which was thought to be a full size popper. I also just realized that when viewed in the app is states PP 1-4 but when viewed online it uses a single P. Granted we should all be more diligent when setting up classifiers it should be an easy fix to make the version viewed in the app mirror the version that's online.
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At a recent club match we had a classifier that was set up wrong (18-05). Full size poppers were used instead of mini. Was not noticed until a few squads shot so had to be tossed.
The stage procedure refers to them as PP and in the scoring section they are called mini poppers. I have also seen mini poppers called USP and MP in stage descriptions.
Is there a standard? I could not find one in the rule book.
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2 minutes ago, tha1000 said:
My akai is definitely not a stock shape. They shape them.
The lowest profile ones I have found are the stock STI safeties that came on my old Trojan. Why not just fit a single side EGW and be done with it?
I have a fitted single sided as a spare but they just look odd on a 2011 frame. My current hack job functions fine but it's a hack job with smoothed edges. And, we all know that looks matter in the gun games!
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30 minutes ago, jcc7x7 said:
Shape it the size you want with a file. Then progress down with sand paper etc to polish them
This is probably what I'll end up doing
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1 hour ago, Rnlinebacker said:
Atlas has some of the best ambi out there right now. Stays away from right hand knuckle and left side safety is a higher angle to allow left hand top really get up high
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That SN sure looks familiar
AJ's old gun? I'll have to check it out at the next local. Ameet, right? This is Mike McKerns...Doesn't look like Atlas sells their safety's on their website.
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I need to fit a new safety for an sti edge and want the lowest profile for the right side. Currently have an egw. I cut the right side off because I would occasionally engage it while reloading. It looks a little goofy but they also look goofy without an ambi safety. Akai guns seem to be very low profile on the right side. Anyone sell these or are they being shaped with a dremel?
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I vote for OAL too. I load to 1.18 for my Edge. The only time i had a ftf was with factory length ammo
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Following
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I got a s2 a little over a year ago ,shot somewhere around 10k minor rounds Thur it with the same buffer and finally swapped it out with a new one. Gonna just keep using them since it came with some extras.
Same here at about 8k rounds on the original and minimal wear. I also use the blue Wilson in my 2011. They recommend changing after 1500 rounds. I normally swap around 5k and I’m sure it could go much longer.
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I hear a lot of people say that they want to shoot a gun in competition similar to what they carry but I think that if you shoot enough, it shouldn’t matter. I shoot a 2011 in uspsa and draw from a dropped/offset strong side holster and I carry a Glock 19 in an appendix holster. Hope I never have to find out but doubt it’ll be the reason I get killed in da streets
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I hear folks deliver that saying to new shooters all the time and i think it is utterly unhelpful. It doesnt explain anything to help someone improve. If im missing, and the suggestion is to simply slow down and see my sights and shoot smoothly, depending on the technical problem im having, i will likly just miss but miss slower. Maybe im seeing my sights and aligning them perfectly but im jerking the gun early to anticipate recoil. Slowing down doesnt fix that problem, it only helps miss more slowly. Thats just one of an infinite scenarios. Aggravates me to see new shooters given advice of the sort when it doesnt actually help them with anything.
To a semi experienced shooter that starts missing when they increase speed by 10%, my advice isnt to slow down so they can be smooth and get their hits. It is to address whatever is causing them to miss the target so they can shoot at that increased speed accurately.
This is where a good eye comes in. Rather than listen to the pablum that is typacally barked at a match for new shooters or people struggling in general, i would suggest seeking out or listening to shooters that can specifically identify the problem you are having and address it in a coherent correctable manner. All the time shooters listen to the normal unhelpful improvement verbiage that may not mean anything, then the shooter doesnt know why they arent getting better, and stay B rated for life.
"Slow is smooth smooth is fast" none of the top competitors look to me like they do anything slowly. A slow hit may be better than a miss, slow hits also dont help you win at this game.
Well said
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May as well add the rest:
"slow is smooth smooth is fast"
When missing steel: "just slow down and see your sights" or "front sight front sight!" Or "call your shot!"
"Just practice until you have muscle memory"
Lots of great people in the sport that want to help but may not have the best answers. Be selective on who you choose to take advice from. Most common mistakes are shooters who think they know the rules but dont.
I can’t tell if you’re busting chops or serious with the slow is smooth/fast comment. Slow is always slow. You should shoot as fast as you can see and move at the limit of human function when doing everything that is not shooting so you can get back to shooting as fast as you can see.
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I don't see anything indicating exactly where the box is measured in USPSA, but Steel Challenge in their 2019 revisions to the rulebook included:
E2: Clarified that box dimensions are outside dimensions, as all box-to-box measurements are shown from the outer edge of the box.
Ours are all outside but the question came up this weekend and we realized no one knew for sure.
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AJ's old gun? I'll have to check it out at the next local. Ameet, right? This is Mike McKerns...Doesn't look like Atlas sells their safety's on their website.
Glock 22 top end on 17 frame (gen3)
in Glock
Posted
Thanks! Sounds like it’s pretty straight forward.
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