MJinPA
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Posts posted by MJinPA
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The 507 does not weight the same. It’s 1.5 ounces. You came here for advice from “this great group of experts” so you can get your rifle setup right but seem more intent on just telling us what you had already decided on. In my opinion, the setup you have with your intended use case is wrong. Good luck though. Hopefully it works out for you. Also...this forum is very much geared toward competitive shooting. You may find different opinions elsewhere.Thanks for the notes, MJ.
Yep, I like the configuration of the scope with a reflex @ 45 deg.
I checked out the 507C -- very cool.
Weighs in at almost the same weight as the 510C; which, you're right -- is a half a pound hanging off the right.
The Odin on the left has a balancing effect.
An excellent suggestion just the same -- thank you.
I'm going to start the hunt for the slim, light reflex.
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Thank you to everyone for all the insights and suggestions.
Great discussion -- from which I learned a lot.
Based on your suggestions (and the use cases of the weapon system), I ended up equipping the rifle with a:
Vortex Optics Crossfire II 3-9X50 SFP Riflescope Dead-Hold BDC MOA on a
Nikon P-Tactical 1Piece 1in 20 Moax 40mm Mount and a HOLOSUN HE510C-GR Elite side-mounted on a TruGlo 45-deg mount.
Completed the system with an OLIGHT Odin 2000 Lumens.
This configuration allowed me to make use of the only picatinny on a tactical Mini 14 (which is along top of the barrel, and most of it taken up by the scope).
So far -- very good.
Let me know if anyone wants to see some pictures.
Again -- sincere thanks to you all!!
That sounds HEAVY! You seem to be set on the offset red dot....if you’re really set on sticking with one, you should look for options that aren’t 1/2 lb hanging off the side of your rifle. Maybe check out the holosun 507c https://www.amazon.com/Holosun-HS507C-V2-Multi-Reticle-Parallax-Failsafe/dp/B084VGDK6K
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The Vortex pst gen2 1-6 is the best of both worlds. Daylight bright red dot on 1x. They retail for about $600 leaving money in your budget for ammo.
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Having just run chrono for the umpteent time. I have pulled and/or been there when hundreds of rounds per match were pulled. Never had a round go off. Just saying.
With ammo that is not damaged I think it’s a non-issue. The one I had blow up was in the pull pile bc the primer was smashed from off center insertion.
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For rifle I’m normally 10-15 sd for stuff I put extra work into and 20-30 for the stuff I load in bulk. Typically 223 plinking ammo. For pistol I’m typically around 15 for sd. Single digits is pretty rare for me. Most of what I load is pistol ammo for uspsa and it’s plenty accurate for that.
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10 good. 100 bad.
Since I’m not sure what problem you’re trying to solve or what es/sd you’re starting with I’m not sure what other advice to give.
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thanks for the replies, what kind of accuracy do you get with the coated bullets?
Thanks
I use the same as workingmanjeff (180 gr PC Bullets) and can consistently shoot a 2” group supported and 4” unsupported at 25 yards out of a 2011.
Last week we ended our practice with 50 yard slow fire group shooting and my daughter put 8 in the A zone and the other 2 were Charlie’s! Only 3 Alphas for me but the bullets were not to blame
You’ll find coated bullets from any experienced manufacturer to be plenty accurate. They are also cheaper and more available than FMJ since manufacturing process is simpler. I think this is why they are also easier to get right now. The backlog at King Shooter Supply is not bad either! https://www.kingshooters.com/bulk-pc-bullets-not-ammunition/bulk-pc-bullets-3014/pc-4010mm-180gr-rnfp-size-401-2500cnt-bulk-box-30147292
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I fondled many before choosing the LSI outlaw. I liked how high it’s cut under the trigger guard. To me it just felt better than the others.
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Thanks everyone for the feedback. Sounds to me like they’re worth it.
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Thinking about getting some and looking for feedback.
Any issues locking in place?
Do they have a real mag feel? Aside from being polymer I’m wondering how they feel when seating, ejecting etc.
Did you have to dremel them basepad to fit your magwell?
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Did you actually measure the chamber before or after to determine if it was/is in spec?
No. Went over to my buddy’s house that fit my top end. Confirmed the problem. Reamed it and is now good to go.
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Interesting. Any idea how much more deep the chamber is now?
Or, any idea how long those problem cases were?
Never had this issue before.. however, I must be spending too much time trimming. =/
Glad you have it resolved.
I’m not sure. Never pulled the bullets to get an accurate measurement.
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It’s fixed! Thanks all for your help. Powder Finger helped me walk through to narrow it down. Had a slightly short chamber that only showed up with a few rounds that had longer brass. Just got back from my buddy’s house and after 6 turns from reamer all the “bad” rounds feed fine.
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Has the barrel been reamed for longer OAL?
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Yes. Reamed to accept up to 1.20. Ammo is 1.181-1.188
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Have you checked the lower lug dimensions vs slidestop& frame?
Without the recoil spring, do you feel any binding or friction of slide? I had this springfield 1911 with their awful coating on it.. 9mm gun. Just the slide and frame were so rough, it would drag and feel like worn out bearings when cycling by hand. Had a similar issue. 1000grit valve compound and some working of the action smoothed out whatever was rough.
Is that the proper fix? No. But.. the gun runs reliably now.
If lower lug is not properly dimensioned, would it not cause the barrel to randomly bind against the slide? Excess drag of upper lugs.
Guess the first thing to check is for additional signs of friction.
In so far the magazine itself is not creating a FTF stoppage.
I have not. The issue has something to do with the ammo as it only happens 1-2/100 rounds with ammo that is in spec for a hundo case gauge and barrel plunk test. The barrel from my old slide fits the new slide and feeds all the problem ammo without issue.
The problem barrel is just failing to close the final 1/8” on these rounds and it’s a hard stop.
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No luck after knocking that down and cleaning up other rough edges.
I put my old barrel that was fit to my old slide in. It seems to fit fine and all the bad rounds feed without a problem.
If it checks all the boxes for barrel fit I might try it out at the range.
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1 hour ago, Don_B said:
Another thing, on a 1911 style pistol with a standard extractor you should never, never put a round in the chamber and close the slide on it. The gun is designed to feed the round up and under the extractor. That is at least part of the cause of your extractor being loose.
I'm aware. Only did this once as a test. The extractor was loose before doing this. I adjusted and it was still good after I dropped the slide on the round.
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16 minutes ago, jcc7x7 said:
Your hood, red circled area is catching, the slide occasionally.
Based on the photos, stone or very lightly file the bbl hood on the contact area you have circled
Thanks! I'll touch up that area and report back. Do you think I should also touch up that part of the slide that it's hitting?
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Recently had my top end rebuilt by a friend/part time gunsmith. 40 cal 2011.
I have about 1500 rounds through it and getting 1-2/100 rounds that it will not lock up on (not even able to force slide closed). We’ve been trying to figure out why but are both at a loss.
Problem has always been there but the first couple practices I chalked it up to “break in”
What I checked...
Cleaned and removed every bit of carbon.
Ammo that fails case gauges and even drops right into the barrel. Even tried dropping into the barrel then closing the slide on it. I even measured everything on the ammo that’s failing and everything is in spec (except for length but barrel is reamed to accept it. And it drops right in)
Recoil spring- had a 12. Tried a new 14#. No luck
Magazines- good and have new springs.
Extractor- tension was loose. Adjusted and problem persists. Put in an aftec from another gun. Still no luck.
Since the season is just starting here in PA, I’d really like to try to fix this myself instead of sending it back to him.
The only thing I can think of is that the dings (circled in pictures) have something to do with it. Can I knock these down? Other thoughts?
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For trimming, get the Giraud Tri-Way Trimmer. It’s only a few dollars more than the WFT but leaves a much cleaner cut. I’ve used both extensively and own the giraud
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Are you shooting the PSA Shootout? Is that anywhere near you?
It’s not too far but I’m not shooting it. Mostly uspsa for me.
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The manual says (on page 9) that you can adjust the "shot dead time" down to .05 sec if you are outrunning the splits.
Of course you may have to read it to do it.
You're welcome...
Thank you sir!
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On the Pocket Pro II You can adjust the shot dead time down to 0.05. The default is 0.11.
Did you try reading the manual?
Ah! And, no way! The manual is long gone and posting questions on enos is quicker and easier than reading
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Didn’t think of that. It’s plenty loud so I could try turning the sensitivity way down. Currently set at whatever the default is.
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Shadow 2 frame coating
in CZ
Posted
The paint is coming off my frame from holster wear and wondering what the coating is underneath? Do I need to worry about rust or is the frame metal treated?