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blackhand

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Everything posted by blackhand

  1. I'm also new to reloading and use the same case gauge for my 9mm loads. Most of the rounds that don't pass the case gauge were due to a bullet profile that required a shorter OAL. A crimp of .378" is enough for the EGW gauge, provided the OAL is correct. I've been using coated lead bullets, which are supposedly a little thicker than plated or jacketed bullets. I've found that I can load truncated cone or flat point bullets a little longer than round nose bullets from different manufacturers. On occasion, I've had rounds not pass the case gauge because the brass was bulged near the bottom. I usually pull those rounds and toss the brass. If you're not tied to shooting FMJs, try loading some coated lead bullets. They're cheaper than FMJ, require a little less powder per charge, and shoot very accurately.
  2. I ordered 12 pounds of N320 from Powder Valley last week. I expected it to sell out quickly, but the 4# jugs were in stock for several days.
  3. I've used Freedom Munitions 147 gr ammo, which is similar in price to the Stand 1 offering. They're a little cheaper at $218.32 per 1000. Free shipping for orders over $100. The ammo cycled my Glocks fine and shot with decent accuracy. The ammo was subsonic, but definitely not reduced power as the Chubbies are advertised. The Freedom Munitions ammo was able to cycle my guns with a suppressor attached, too. I save over $100 per 1000 when loading my own reduced power 147 gr loads. My reloads are considerably more accurate and softer shooting than factory/retail offerings. If you can get over the initial equipment expense, reloading is the way to go.
  4. For coated 147 gr bullets, 2.8 gr of Bullseye at 1.135 OAL cycled all my guns fine. I tested some loads with 3.0 and 3.2 gr of Bullseye. No pressure signs, but I wasn't loading for power factor, so I stuck with the 2.8 gr loading. I've read and experienced that Bullseye tends to be smoky with coated bullets. Bullseye is the fastest powder I've loaded for 9mm. You might like a slower burning powder better for the 147 gr bullets. I've used WSF, Ramshot Competition, and VV N320 to good effect.
  5. Just got into the reloading game a few months ago and have only loaded coated lead bullets. I use a flare/bell of .385". For 147 gr bullets, I've loaded Blue Bullets (round nose) and SNS Casting (flat point) bullets. I had to load the Blue Bullets shorter than the SNS Casting bullets to fit in my case gauge and GLOCK 19 match barrel. 1.100" OAL for the Blue Bullets vs. 1.135" OAL for the SNS Casting bullets. Both bullets are extremely accurate, but I stuck with the SNS Casting bullets because they chambered easier in my guns, and I could load them longer. I recently started loading 125 gr SNS Casting bullets (round nose). I had to load these bullets fairly short as well. OAL of 1.085" to fit in my case gauge and barrels. Recommended crimp for the 125 and 147 gr bullets is .377"-.378", but I found that a .376" crimp ensures reliable chambering in my tighter match barrel. With a .376"-.378" taper crimp, there's a faint line around the bullet when pulled. The coating is still intact. With a tighter crimp, you'll probably break the coating and get some smoke when shooting the rounds. My stock 9mm GLOCK barrels are fine with a .378" crimp and longer OALs.
  6. I don't have access to a chrono yet, but WSF has been the most accurate powder for me under a coated 147 gr SNS Casting and Blue Bullets bullet. Other powders I've tried with coated 147 gr bullets are Bullseye, N320, and Ramshot Competition. However, WSF is also the dirtiest of the four powders. No issues with smoke, but the cases have more soot. I'm not loading for power factor since I'm only shooting GSSF matches, so I've been working up the lightest loads that will reliably cycle a stock Glock 17 and 19. 3.4 WSF, 147 SNS or Blue Bullets Coated Bullet, 1.135 OAL shoots accurately and reliably out of my stock Glock 17 and 19. Published data from Winchester/Hodgdon lists 3.7 (905 fps) - 4.1 (965 fps) gr at 1.169" OAL for 147 gr coated lead flat point bullets.
  7. I've run a sample pack of 250 Blue Bullets and over 1000 SNS Casting coated bullets through my Hornady Bullet Feeder die. I watched this Youtube video to help work out some of the issues. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJro27cx0yA Coated bullets dropped fine through the first collet, but would get hung up on the bottom collet. I used 400-800 grit sandpaper wrapped around a pen/dowel to smooth out the inside of the bottom collet. Additionally, you can use something to expand the prongs on the collet to help the bullets drop through. The end of a Sharpie marker worked for me. I then used a Dremel with a felt polishing tip to smooth out both collets. I repeated the process a few times until I got bullets to feed consistently. Using mixed brass, I took the case with the shortest length and flared it to .385". Longer cases run through the expander die will get more belling, but .385" is about the minimum bell needed to get reliable bullet feeding. When setting up the die, I think I had to back out the adjustment screw more than the 1/2 turn listed in the manual. It took a bit of fine-tuning, but the die works great now with home-made bullet feeder tubes made from plastic tubing. Here's the link for the home-made bullet feeder tubes. Home-made Bullet Feeder Tubes I load 5 bullets in the die and 45 in the tube, so when I pull out the hitch pin on the tube, the stack of bullets doesn't fall as far. I've never had too many bullets feed, but early on a bullet would occasionally fail to feed. I loaded 400 rounds just last night without any issues with the bullet feeder die and home-made tubes. I don't recall having any bullets fail to feed from the die in my last few reloading sessions with ~200 rounds loaded per session.
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