Avenida
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Posts posted by Avenida
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Also what is the best case dimension you are talking about?
thanks
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54 minutes ago, kernelofwisdom said:
I took 4 thousandths off the pad of the extractor and put in an uncut xtra power spring and it seems to be working. I had a few new extractors and I measured the pad dimension and the one I had in was worst case. I filed it down to the best case dimension I measured. Seems so little, but I am past dismissing the small things. The extractor travel with the full length spring is very non linear, but it works. It definitely won’t over travel much so that probably helps keep it from slipping off.
Does your gun passes the brass in the chamber, extractor going over the rim of the brass test?
The test is described by cha-lee above.
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2 fte tonigth.
Barrel has been reamed.
I am ready to toss this thing off a cliff.
My brass has the same indentation as the one posted above.
Last thing to change would be the extractor.
After that is done, If it fails I give up.
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I agree with you Cha-Lee!
the spring has to operate properly.
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true, however, with the proper understanding and current feedback it is better than reading old posts.
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9 hours ago, yigal said:
friend of mine have one old small f. from early 90s .slide cracked after 40k
the other one have gold team from 1993 and he use it for ipsc practice and competitions.from 1993-2014 .changed ~7-8 barrels . gun still in working condition.
local dealer rent on his shooting range old lim pros from1995 few of them passed 150k.
compare to glocks it's nothing.
we have army abused glocks with 200-300k before slide breaks.
I believe the older small frames are a little bit smaller in dimension on a couple of parts, particularly the trigger guard.
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that is a pretty good record, 150.000 for pistol is more than enough in my book, actually, I would consider 100.000 a good service life, anything extra is gravy.
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I probably will not keep mine that long, I tend to rotate them every 20k.
however I might keep these longer, because I like them a lot.
Good to hear they can get to 50k+ with no issues!
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Who owns a chrome tanfo with over 50.000 rounds?
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44 minutes ago, goshimu said:
I like your thinking. I’m the same in that I like that my gun goes off no matter what I load or put in it under any conditions.
Thanks and agreed!
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14 minutes ago, drewsifer said:
Issue resolved years ago. No longer a problem. New Tanfo large frames are made to withstand continuous 10mm firing. The Stock 2s are all built on the same frame for all common pistol calibers from 9mm, 38 super, 40s&w, 45acp, 10mm.
To my knowledge I haven't heard of any cracking in recent years.
Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
What is the deal with the small frame ones? the slide seems to be different only.
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Sorry but I need to ask.
What is the round count in your Chrome Tanfoglios.
I have been told recently that the chromed tanfos tend to crack, is this an old wives tale from a decade ago?
I do know that the 40 cal standard pistol in chrome where cracking due to be being lighten but tanfoglio got rid of this design for that reason and now the slides no longer have a cut out in the recoil spring cover.
What kind of life expectancy can I expect out of my Chrome Stock II 9mm pistols?
Wondering what have you guys think.
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I just came back home and I loaded a round to 1.1145
The bore has a nice stretch of free bore and there is absolute 0 binding in between the round and the rifling.
I will never load a round so long as I do not need to.
I was also advised that reaming the chamber will not only make the gun more reliable but it will also increase the speed of your current loads and sometimes increase accuracy, it is all related to the free bore.
The gunsmith is very familiar with tanfoglio and he has advised reaming not as a 'you could ream it' but more like 'you have to ream it if you want the gun 100% reliable with reloads and SAAMI spec'd ammo'.
The ammo in Europe is made under CIP regulations and chambers into the gun slightly different.
Tanfoglio bores are very undersized, The gun smith I saw had several reamers made specifically for the tanfoglio, and each reamer had a different size. All barrels come out of the factory with different (undersized) bores, therefore, if you get a really small one, a regular reamer will not fit into the bore (the pilot will not fit).
Also, he advised against trimming the spring, he says it is common for the spring to be stiff. It is not coil binding, it is just that it is stronger. The gun will work fine but you will not be able to actuate the extractor with a screwdriver until the spring settles a bit. It is really strong and you want it that way.
Upon his advice, I just did replace the spring with one uncut, rounds chamber fine and the extractor is moving when chambering a round however, I cannot move it with a screw driver (when checking for tension).
I will follow his advice since he has been working on tanfoglios for many years.
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13 hours ago, leemoe83 said:
In the CZ guns the safety was never designed to be functional with the hammer down and I assume at the safety notch on the hammer. In USPSA your safety only needs to function correctly with the hammer fully cocked on the CZ and it may be the same with a Tanfo in IPSC.
That makes sense. If this is the case, the safety is fully functional as it stands.
I have not had a chance to work on my 2nd pistol, but I will eventually, just came back home and now it is family time so it will be a little while until I can get around at polishing and tuning pistol #2.
ON a side note:
I am very proud of my trigger work, it is a really smooth 7 pound trigger. I had a chance to show my gun to both a master black badge instructor and the national IPSC champion here in town and although we all agreed agree that 7 pounds is on the heavy side, it is a very nice and respectable trigger.
I can get it down to 5 lbs with light EG springs but only reliable with Federal primers and I do not have time for that nonsense.
anyway, that was a little bit of trigger show off! lol
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so much bling bling! love it.
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22 minutes ago, johnbu said:
You mean SA?
Sorry yes, SA.
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Hey John,
all valid points, if anything, this could be it...
The safety works perfectly when the hammer is in DA.
Going to have to switch parts around and see where the issue is...
But I think you might have nailed it
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10 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
So you can get the hammer to halfcock, from fully down, by pulling the trigger with the safety on?
Initial suspicion is you made a couple of passes too many with the dremel or file.
On what do you think?
The safety is a tight fit to the sear. I just checked.
Only part fitted was the sear.
Safety was never touched.
Hammer is sliding under he sear, titan hamer was drop in, never touched. Sear is extreme, never touched with the exception of fitting the safety, which is a tight fit, it is fitted perfectly to my knowledge. Lol I think I spent 3 hours fitting that $#$#$#@$ sear. Lol
mmmm unless the hammer and sear are a bad combo together....?
why is the hammer sliding under the sear? Weird.
it does take certain force to get it there, but it is possible.
Maybe it is a Titan hammer thing//?
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2 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:
What does it do in double action? Pulling the trigger with the hammer all the way down.
From my post above:
hammer down (Titan) the safety engages under the sear very tightly, it is a perfect fit. When pulling the trigger the sear does not move at all, however, I can still pull the trigger (with resistance) and I can get the hammer to slide under the sear engage and engage the half cock notch, if I push a bit harder then the hammer will continue creeping up until the hammer falls (and engages half cock again - it will never reach the FP as the sear is not moving!!).
The sear does not move at all during this operation.
In theory, the gun is safe, it is just that I can still move the hammer back.
does that help?
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I thought I had a tanfoglio problem.....lol...
you need an intervention!
nice collection! Cheers
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Ok I checked the sear...
hammer down (Titan) the safety engages under the sear very tightly, it is a perfect fit. When pulling the trigger the sear does not move at all, however, I can still pull the trigger (with resistance) and I can get the hammer to slide under the sear engage half cock, if push harder the hammer falls (and engages half cock again). The sear does not move at all during this operation.
Half cock, in this position the sear changes its angle, the safety has now more space to move under it.
Fully cocked, the sear fit is now as in hammer down, very tight and the trigger is locked up with the safety on.
In other words although I can still move the hammer as shown in the video, all the safeties still work...
I hope that makes sense.
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This is the first thing I checked when I found this. As I mentioned above, the sear engages the safety and the fit is tight, it not a poor fitting nor a safety to sear issue. All that is good and working but I am not second guessing my work...
Also when the gun is in SA with the safety on, the trigger is locked up.
I am not 100 percent sure but it might be that something is worn, maybe the underside of the sear broke and the hammer is sliding over it, not sure really... something is the geometry of the trigger changed after 2000 rounds.
I am thinking that maybe the hammer was not installed when I fitted the safety.... rmmmmh, I can’t remember....
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I had the opportunity to visit the gunsmith and he says my gun is fine.
He did advice against trimming the xp springs, the spring should feel really stiff unti it settles he says, this is normal.
The guy has been working with Tanfoglio and Eric Grauffel for a while so he knows what he is talking about, he also shoots with tanfoglio.
He looked at my chamber and he resized it for SAAMI so that is now good.
I will adjust the spring when I get back, I will try the gun then and I will report back. It should be good to go now!
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The trigger is really nice, spent some time working the parts as recommended by Memphis mechanic.
When I was done with the trigger I do not remember this being an issue, I remember testing the safety and it all worked well so something has wore out since, my guess is the disconnector?
To explain what the issue is I just shot a little video of what is going on, please excuse the bad quality audio. I am in a hotel room and trying to avoid the word gun as I can hear people in the room next door, lol... Canada,if you have been here lived here you will understand
Please note, I disassembled the slide and look at the safety engaging the sear, the sear does not move, the actual safety is doing its job, however the disco is sliding backward, when the hammer drops as shown in the video, it engages the half cock, the gun will never go off as the FP safety is also there, however as it stand the gun is not production legal for IPSC as the safety is not really working well.
Hoping for some clarification, maybe I am missing something.
Parts used: everything is EXTREME parts except for sear cage, it is the stock one.
we have army abused glocks with 200-300k before slide breaks.
Stock 2 failure to extract issue
in Tanfoglio (EAA / IFG)
Posted · Edited by Avenida
OK this is what I tried.
I replaced both my stock 2 with XP springs.
IF I do the test as explained by CHA LEE both my guns fail when I do the test slowly, HOWEVER, if I release the slide from slide lock the momentum created by the recoil spring has enough strength to get the extractor over the rim of the piece of brass with no problems. I tried this on both guns a few times with an old extractor (to avoid any unnecessary wear on the new one) then I replaced the new one and I did the test one time on each gun.
It worked as it supposed to in both guns.
In other words, I will try this with live fire hopefully tomorrow and I ll see how the gun performs. If it fails, then I will officially give up and go back to the glock, lol.
haha