RenoShooter

Could these have possibly popped in the decapping/sizing die? Lousy prank maybe...?

Wow, that's pretty high and seems consistent with my hits on the 50 yard targets. Awesome info! Thank you!

We rarely see the 50 yard classifier, and I sure don't practice it, but we had it last week and I was just hitting so high compared to where I was aiming. Thanks again, all!

Thanks everyone for the help. Based on what I've learned here, I may be zeroed too close. My load is 7.0 grains of autocomp with Montana Gold 124jhp, @ 1.165. Without measuring, I'd guess my scope is about one inch high from the center of the bore. (Standard STI Grandmaster Factory pistol with Factory mount.)

Is there any reason why 50 yard long shots seem to hit very high when I'm aiming for the center A zone? It's probably just me, but it's always high at significant yardage. My C-more is sighted in at 25 feet. Thoughts?

Awesome, I'm glad it's working for you! Seriously, I have 2 Grandmasters in 9mm and the only thing I did to them was put in the Aftec's. The stock extractor would occasionally hit the scope mount, but the new one gets the brass to the ejector quicker and has yet to hit the mount. Both guns!

There's no secret juju to a new trubor. Put in an Aftec and that's it! The mags will run just fine without any crazy modifications. I have 2 of these and they are great and reliable. Don't tinker and you'll be fine.

9mm all the way. I had Zev build me one a few months ago and it runs great! Try not to be fooled into those comps with too many holes in them, as it will make the gun more difficult to dial in. I wanted mine to be flat shooting AND reliable, so that's what I paid Zev to do. Their comp is great and I think also looks great. The frame mounted C-more is very reliable and proven. It's also my personal preference over slide mounted scopes. Their trigger is also really nice and again proven reliability comes with it. I hate to sound like I'm shilling for Zev, but I know the Franken-Glocks that I've seen built and have had the opportunity to shoot, and they are just not as flat or dialed in. Here is a link to mine, hopefully it works. If not, possibly cut and paste into the browser. It's from, "The Gallery" second page, entitled, "My new open Glock 34. The aforementioned reasons for 9mm from the other posts are also in line with my thoughts as well. In my opinion, whatever you end up doing, take measured pause and try out as many friends' set-ups as you can first. That will help you from nickel and diming yourself on your build and you'll only have to buy things once. Trust me, I've been there. http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=214953

When I put in an Aftec extractor on my new STI it did the same thing as yours is doing. I did the case to the breech-face test with an empty case by slipping the case under the ejector and seeing how well it held in place. It was far looser than the factory extractor! I called Aftec and they told me that many still need further adjustment. Doesn't matter about how many springs you're using if it's too loose. I adjusted per Aftec's instruction and got it close. Improvement, yay! But, I could not get it close enough so I ended up putting it in the extractor tuning tool and getting it perfect. The steel is much harder so it's more difficult to twist the handle down on the tool, but it worked. I did the same on my backup STI, (same exact model), and it runs perfect as well. Hopefully that's all your issue is as it would be easy to try. On side note, the Aftec's like to run a little looser then a factory extractor. So if you're using the tool and a gauge to set your ounces it doesn't like to be cranked up as much as a factory one. Hope this helps, but it's probably clear as mud, right?

If you are using factory ammo you should chrono it first to verify the stats on the box. You will need a definitive power factor. Also, with a Glock 34 you would need fewer comp holes than say a Glock 17. The more holes, the more you typically have to jack up the round's power factor to operate. Also, get a 9 pound Zev spring and cut a coil off of it. That should allow you to run the factory 130'ish PF ammo and have enough force to eject. The only off the shelf ammo I have found that meets the needs of an open 9mm is Buffalo Bore 124+P+. It's super expensive, (to me at least), so reloading will become a target for economics and round performance. But this should get you at least shooting reliably.

Shot this stage on Sunday and all I can say is WOW! It completely destroyed me! That par time is quick. As it turns out, only about 15-20 percent of ALL the shooters that day even put up a hit factor above zero. It was the first time I've seen a stage become an "ammo-waster" for 80 percent of everyone who shot it. Seriously, 80% of the entire field shot a zero percent! This type of stage confuses me a bit. It looks like it weeds out everyone who isn't a high A-class or better shooter. If most folks will zero this thing why do we have it as a classifier? Meaning, with all the zero's posted there is no stratification of different classes so shooters learn nothing other than I need to almost be a master to even put points on the board. Thoughts??

In my opinion, the DVC cut is better than the stock STI grip. I have medium sized hands and along with the non-slip surface, the undercuts feels great and I can get my thumb on the magazine eject button without having to shift my grip. That makes for quicker reloads in my case, and I need all the help I can get with those.

I run them on my open class and limited class G34's. Combo it with the best spring for your load and you've really got a fast slide with little recoil or front end dip. Expensive, yes unfortunately, but compared to my STI it's not as bad. But yes, effective.

Depends on the situation. If the HC is ridden with bullet holes and that RO says he is certain that a specific 1 out of 10 is mine, I'm not going to agree with the call but I won't argue it. Again, if that RO can look me in the eye and say with 100% certainty I'll accept it. However, I would be very skeptical of that RO's integrity and do my best to never squad with them again. If the RO can look you in the eye and you still don't believe him/her in your gut, then you should argue it. It's not combative to respectfully disagree with a call. Just because someone is an RO doesn't necessarily make them infallible. People make mistakes or think they see something that maybe they didn't all the time. How many of us have scored an Alpha, Charlie audibly as we are walking up to a target only to have to correct ourselves because the perf was broken and it's really 2 Alpha's? People think they see things all the time. There's no problem with tactfully disagreeing. If the RO takes it personally, then that's their own issue and probably shouldn't be an official in the first place. Just don't be a jerk about it and most RO's will at least listen to your side.

If they aren't painting or repairing barrels or other hard cover as they get hit, all the shooter has to say is, "prove it." It would be scored a hit. It doesn't matter what the RO thinks he/she saw, if you showed me a barrel that looked like swiss cheese with bullet holes all through it I would ask to be shown the one that I did. No RO could say with 100% certainty unless it was the only hole. The only thing the RO could do with 100% certainty is score the hit. All the more reason to use no-shoots at level 1 matches to prevent this situation from happening in the first place.