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zzt

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Posts posted by zzt

  1. 32 minutes ago, Schutzenmeister said:

     

    In my experience it dependes on how much (if any) astigmatism you had/have left.  This will drive the dot (or other objects) to appear skewed even when your focus is otherwise fully corrected.  I think using your red dot to help get the correct adjustment here makes sense.  The distortion (I think) shows up faster with the dot than on the optomitrist's eye charts.

     

    Makes sense.  I have a very small amount of astigmatism left according to the doc.   I don't notice it, and the dots are round.  If I ever get prescription readers, they will correct it then.

  2. I don't understand why you would bring your dot/slide/gun to the Doctor's office.  For reflex or dot sights, you want to focus on the target, not the dot.  They are not in exactly the same apparent plane.  

     

    Now that @MHicks mentions it, I do recall looking at my dot with readers on.  I was working on it, then looked through.  The dot shattered.

  3. 13 hours ago, TheSandMan491 said:

    Springfield's always had decent barrels, but I worry about shoooters dropping $1,200 on a prodigy and an additional $2,000 on upgrades. In the Edge days (when I started as well) it was a trigger job (on stock, tool steel components) away from being match-ready. 

     

    If you drop an extra $2k you end up with a fully hand fit custom gun.  I don't think it is necessary.  SA uses good MIM internals in their guns.  There are a boatload of SA 1911s at the club.  I tell them to put 500 rounds through the gun so the trigger pull smooths out.   Don't bother replacing anything (except ILS back in the day) until stuff wears out.  You'll get at least 20k rounds through before you have to address anything.

     

    One shooter just polished the sear, hammer hooks and disco, then adjusted the sear spring.  Smooth 2 lb. pull.

     

    If you want to upgrade the ignition kit to EGW, it is simple.  Or, just buy the gun and base package from Briley.  For around $1550 they go over the gun, install EGW ignition parts and refit the thumb safety.  You get a gun that runs 100%.

     

    I'm probably going to buy a Prodigy just to tinker with.  I want to see if a Cheely e2 grip fits without mods.   I can pull from the parts bins and swap stuff out to see if there is any meaningful improvement.  After I'm done tinkering, I'll probably put it back to stock and sell it.

  4. 42 minutes ago, Haywizzle said:

    If they allow comps in LO it would steal a few shooters from Open but I don't think that is going to happen.

     

    Nor do I.  The allure of CO and LO now is you can shoot factory 130~132 PF ammo.  Factory can be bought for less (in some cases) than the components you need to roll your own.  Comps for minor loads only start working at around 150 PF.  You have to reload.  If you have to load anyway, why not shoot Open major.

  5. 2 hours ago, LHshooter said:

    I chrono'd the ported barrel for my MPA DS9 this morning using the same 11 types of ammo for when I chrono'd my non-porting barrel. I decided to get both barrels when I ordered the pistol thinking I might use the ported barrel for CO in IDPA and the non-ported for LO in USPSA. Results are in the table below:

     

     

    Portedvsnonportedbarrels.thumb.jpg.ca21c23b0a571c556e3be10424e1b7d3.jpg 

    Looks like I've got some work to do to find the best load since I had planned on using 115's or 124's in this pistol.

     

    A word of caution on the CCI Blazer:  if it was Aluminum cased ammo, you are fine.  If brass cased you risk leading up the ports.   CCI recommends against using the brass cased in comps or ports.  The copper plating is so thin it can flake off and lead the comp.  I didn't find that out until I talked to a CCI Ballistician.  Unfortunately, I had just bought a case.

     

    2 hours ago, RJH said:

    I think one other thing this shows real well is that you can't really guess at it, gotta Chrono it to know

     

    👍

     

  6. On 2/21/2024 at 6:20 AM, MJinPA said:

    Really? While I agree that you shouldn't need a gunsmith I never heard of a 1911 with drop in parts.

     

    Some things do drop in.  For instance, if all the holes are in the correct positions, some well made ignition kits will drop in and be perfect.  That's exactly what happened on the last four Open builds.

  7. Added later.  I don't care if 95% of a manufacture's guns leave the factory 100%.  I don't care if they handle warranty repairs well.  5% left with problems.  That is enough for me to recommend against them.  I'm the Chief Range Officer for pistol at my home club.  I see all sorts of things.  Two weeks ago a member bought a new pistol and brought it the range.  It would not fire.  I disassembled the gun, saw the problem, and told him to return it.  I also told him to buy a different brand.  He showed up the following week with another pistol (that did work) and thanked me. 

  8. 15 hours ago, RJH said:

     

    Unsafe how?

     

     

    Half cock did not function.  Hammer dropped when thumb safety disengaged.  Hard trigger pull released thumb safety.  Things like that indicate inadequate, or inexperienced fitting and poor quality control.  They should never have been allowed to leave the factory.  Other things that did not affect safety were just plain lazy or stupid.   

     

    I have zero tolerance regarding safety issues.  If I had received one of the guns in question, I could have fixed the problem if I didn't send it back.  Now consider someone who does not build pistols.  Someone who may barely know how to disassemble for cleaning.  I'm willing to bet 70% of 1911/2011 shooters do not know how to check half cock.  How many pull the trigger really hard for a safety check.  I sure didn't.  I failed a safety check at the chrono station with my first used Open gun.  A really hard pull on the trigger disengaged the thumb safety.  I never in a million years would have thought to pull that hard.  Perfectly safe with a good tug, but not a really hard pull.  Fortunately I also had a used backup.

  9. 4 hours ago, AndyID said:

    You definitely lead the charge here trying to steer folks away from MPA. What’s the angle? 

     

    Inexcusable deficiencies in  new 4K guns, many that affect safety.  Astounding stupidity with some of the stuff they do.  It absolutely boggles my mind that they put crap like that out.  Buy MPA and you roll the dice.  You may get a good one.  You may get three good ones in a row.  Then again you may not.    If the gun cost $700 I'd say, okay, you get what you pay for.  Even then I'd question putting a new gun out there that fails safety check.  For $4000 I expect everything to be perfect.  I don't care that they may eventually make it right.  Hire good gunsmiths in the first place and there is nothing to make right.

     

    This is the exact reason STI went out of business.  I swore years ago I would never, ever buy anything STI.  Too many problems with their stuff.   CK Arms went the same way.  Cut too many corners and people start to notice.  Why did 6 out of 7 DVC Open shooters have to send their guns back for repairs several times.  None of them shoot DVCs now.  They sold them and bought stuff that runs.

     

    Now, I will note that people don't come to me with guns that work right.  I only see the broken or bad ones.  Some of them are scary.

     

    I understand the allure of an 'inexpensive' Open gun.  Especially when most go for $7500+.  Open is not where you want to cut corners.   I wouldn't buy an MPA  gun either.  I can build one for less.  There are other manufacturer's guns I wouldn't buy either.  

     

    Do yourself a favor and look around.  There are options.  One is to start with a good LO gun.  Buy a $400 one piece barrel/comp from Brazos and pay a gunsmith $350 to fit it.  If you don't want to spend $7500, buy an Open short block from someone reputable.  All the hard work is already done.  Everything else is a matter of assembly with little actual fitting required.  I did just that on the last Open build.  I wanted to see how it would work out.  I had a completed, 100% functioning gun in an afternoon.

  10. 40 minutes ago, Racinready300ex said:

    Only requiring one shot per target I can't see frame mounting helping. After you fire, your eyes go to the next target and wait for the dot, unless you're transitioning in under .06 the slide will be in battery and waiting for you to get the gun over there. With no power factor it's not surprising comps aren't making massive differences either. 

     

    As I've said earlier in this thread and in other similar threads, there is NO DIFFERENCE between frame mounted and slide mounted dots when shooting minor ammo without ports or a comp.  Nada.  There is a difference in major.  That being said, I shoot with two guys who shoot Open major with slide mounted dots and comps.  Zero issues. 

     

    I don't understand the requirement for a slide mounted dot in LO.  Years ago, my home club did not allow compensators in their outlaw matches.  I fitted a normal barrel to my main Open gun.  It shot to the same POI as my major ammo.  I just shot factory in it.

     

    I built a dedicated 1911 Open gun for SCSA.  I used WAC for 150 PF loads, because that's what the other Open shooters were doing.  Now I use factory 115s.  For one shot targets, the tiny bit more muzzle rise makes no difference.  It is much quieter, cheaper and I'm starting to shoot better with it.

  11. 13 hours ago, NeverForget said:

    What pound spring did you swap too for your 124s at 132PF?

     

    I'm now shooting a 2011 Open gun.  10 lb. for major, 6v for minor.  

     

    My experience with a CM was the loads you are using hit my hand hard.  The dot danced with HS-6.  It was fine with WAC.  Use the WAC for 145-150 PF minor loads.  It will run fine, shoot flat and burn clean.  For major, 115s are going to hit your hand harder, unless you put poppels in.  Your softest major load with the standard comp is going to be a 124 JHP under AA7.  It will feel like cheating.

  12. 6 hours ago, CHA-LEE said:

     

    If you already have 40 Cal 140mm mags, then all you need are 9mm tubes then move the guts and pads over to the 9mm tubes. That is a lot less $$$ than you think. For example Atlas Gunworks 140mm mag tubes are only $50.

     

    CZ TS 9mm mag tubes are unobtainable.

     

    6 hours ago, vgdvc said:

    If you're really into the 9mm route I would absolutely contact the authority on magazines, Beven Gram at Grams Engineering. Super nice guy, ridiculously knowledgeable about magazines and very willing to help. He helped me get things squared away on my STI tubes. In my experience his components are the best.

     

    No. I'm giving up.  For $125 I figured I could shoot a gun I love, but don't use much any more.  I'll leave it 40sw and shoot my 2011s for 9 minor.  Works fine and I have plenty of MBX and Atlas mags for them.  I thought about tweaking the feed lips, but decided against.  I still want them to work for 40.

  13. On 1/15/2024 at 11:02 PM, vgdvc said:

    Good luck with the conversion, keep updated with how it goes.

     I'll pick up the torch for the 40. Getting a EGW plate to put a not in use  Delta point pro on my Tangfolio Limited with lightened 6 in upper. Been playing with minor loads around 138 pf. It's so silly soft and flat shooting.(accurate  also) Looking forward to running it in LO.

     

    Well, the conversion isn't working out.  I fit the barrel and it shoots to the same POI as the 40 barrel.  So far, so good.  The bad news is 9mm does not work in my 40 mags.  I was told it would before I bought the barrel.  I get get three rounds in one of the mags.  Add a fourth and one pops out.  I can't keep even one in the other mags.   I was willing to spend $225 to drop one caliber.  I'm not willing to spend an additional $350 on mags and extensions to shoot 9mm in it.  So I'll be back to loading 40 minor if I want to shoot LO.

  14. The answer is yes, but not enough to matter at pistol ranges.  Even for rifles at close range you don't have to consider it.  Example:  a rifle bullet fired at 1000' with a muzzle velocity of 3000fps is going 2926fps at 50 yards.  Increase elevation by 7000' and it is going 2943fps.  That is a 17fps difference.  Increase range to 100 yards, a long pistol shot, and the increase in velocity is 34fps.

     

    Even though a pistol bullet has no where near the ballistic coefficient of a rifle bullet and may slow down more, it isn't going to make you miss your target.

     

    Here is a comparison of two of my loads.  124gr @ 1090fps with a 25 yard zero.  .04" low at 35 and .5" low at 50.  For my 124gr @ 800fps PCC load, .39" and 2.05".  You bullets are not going to slow down anywhere near that much.

     

     

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