zzt
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Posts posted by zzt
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8 hours ago, dmshozer1 said:
Maybe I should try working out during the week?
I would say it is essential. No matter how hard I work, I cannot gain, I only cannot lose. Very frustrating.
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1 hour ago, Joel_x said:
seating and crimping are 2 different dies…. Seating stem contours well over the precision deltas. I even polished it last year to make sure it wasn’t sticking on bullet or something.
Seating stem 'contours well' over PDs doesn't mean anything. If the PDs are as dimensionally accurate as you say, switch to a flat stem. See what happens. What is your crimp die?
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5 hours ago, Joel_x said:
I would love to see a video of someone making sub .001” dev ammo and measure them as they come off the press for 50 round with mixed brass as some state.
Okay. I just went down and measured a random sample of 20 of my 9 major rounds. Every one was between 1,162" and 1.163". I load on a Hornady LnL with a case feeder and a bullet feeder. I seat with a Hornady seater and crimp with a Lee FCD. I use 115 HAP or Zero JHP bullets. I do use fully processed, once fired, same HS brass for major. I load with the sizing/decapping die removed. I would never accept a +/- .005" deviation.
I load minor with mixed range pick up brass that has been roll sized and processed. I don't sort anything. The only brass I chuck is stepped brass, and then only if I catch it at the first station. On the Hornady with Berry's plated, not more than .001 OAL difference. With RMR plated seconds, I get as much as .002" variation.
Loading on a squishy Lee 6-pac pro with RMR JHPs, I mostly get a .001" variation when I operate the press correctly. I get more if I don't get the stroke right. There is no hard bottom at the end of the stroke. I'll get 2 or 3% up to .004" under and the same for .005 over. The press is new, so I'm still working on getting the setup perfect.
Again, it has to be you or something in your setup. PD v2 JHPs are decent bullets, so I don't think they are the problem. You might try changing your seating die stem. I once had an OAL problem and changing the stem to a different profile cured it. I'm out of the Zeros now, and HAPs are not available at anything approaching reasonable pricing. I just received 4900 PD 115 v2 JHPs. We'll see how that goes. They have a rounded profile, instead of the truncated cone profile of the HAPs and Zeros.
Another thought, if you are crimping with a seater/crimp die, make sure the seater stem is way out of the picture. I use an FCD for crimping all calibers, so that isn't a problem.
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23 minutes ago, Joe4d said:
you must not own rim fires..
its not the breaking of the pin, but dry firing will very much peen the side of the chamber and it doesnt take much..
I agree with the bag thing,, when carbines were allowed they shoulda just made a few edits and made trigger guard covering case, the same as a trigger guard covering holster..I own several rimfires and shoot RFPO and RFRO in SCSA. You don't hammer down for rimfires. I was referring to PCC shooters afraid of breaking the firing pin.
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I don't know how far I walk at every match. My Fitbit alerts me I've taken 5000 steps before the end of the match.
I workout 5 days a week, unless I'm injured. With setup, shooting, ROing five+ shooters per stage, taping and tear down, I'm pooped at the end.
As far as running vs. taking longer shots, I saw that at the match last Sat. I tried to take a picture of the stage with the very wide angle lens on my phone and couldn't get all the shooting boxes in the frame. For those that elected to run for closer shots, they had to travel 68 yards from the start box to the four shooting boxes. For those willing to risk 45 yard shots, you could do it in two boxes after the start box. It required running backwards and memory.
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21 hours ago, Joel_x said:
im not chasing 100% perfection but I don’t like loading to 1.170 and heading up with 1.185 due to mixed head stamps.
You have a press, seater or bullet shape variation problem, not a mixed HS problem. I load minor 9mm in mixed HS, range pickup with plated RN bullets and have OAL variations of <,001".
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15 hours ago, JodiH said:
NROI doesn't require chamber flags be inserted in the barrel because many folks are worried the plastic will melt in the hot barrel.
That is an old wives tale. Any actual chamber flag will not melt. I've been using one for years. Even after a 64 round monster match stage where you rip rounds off like a machine gun, it doesn't melt.
"I don't want to hammer down because the firing pin may break" Another old wives tale. In all the years I've been ROing SCSA matches, I've never seen that happen.
I dislike string, zip ties, etc. If drop the hammer for PCC goes away, I also object to NRA style chamber flags that fill the ejection port but do not go into the barrel. There could still be a round in the chamber.
The reason they are called empty chamber indicators is something goes into the chamber. Otherwise, you don't know it's empty.
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I read it the same way. There is no mention of it in 5.1.5, so it doesn't exist. I see many shooters with TK bags or similar with external mag pouches. Shooters handle it differently. Some will open the pouches and place them on the table before Make Ready. After MR they unzip the case and pull out the gun. Other shooters open the mag pouches after make ready. They take one mag out, us it, then reinsert it into the pouch.
I do exactly that, except I have separate mag cases.
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26 minutes ago, Hoops said:
Since a rule, is this step a safety precaution for something?
Yes. A piece of thin trimmer string or a zip tie inserted through the port and down the magwell may allow an out of battery firing if there is still a round in the chamber.
Another reason- consistency (also with USPSA rules). All centerfire guns are hammer down. All long guns require a chamber flag. All pistols do not require a chamber flag. Rimfires are a special case, because hammer down will eventually damage the gun.
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Here is a list of 9mm case capacities I got from a poster on these forums. Different capacities will have different pressures from the same load.
FWIW, I use mixed HS, range pickup for all 9mm minor. I use fully processed, once fired, same HS brass for 9 major, then leave it on the ground at matches.
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I use the Everglades MRH holster. https://www.evergladesammo.com/everglades-magnetic-race-holster.html
It works with my 2011 Open guns, my square trigger 1911 Open steel gun and my CZ 75 TS. The TS draws fine, because it is retained magnetically. It also locks in, but will move around a bit. I did have to slightly modify it to work with my Cheely e2 grips. 30 seconds and done.
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OP, if you want flat(ish) at 130 PF without the teeth rattling, add two 3/16" poppels. I use 124s over 4.5gr AA2 for 132 PF. Soft, flat and quiet. A tad more WAC will do the same thing. If you want flat(ish) with only the comp, you'll have to be at 155+ PF with WAC or slower. It will be loud.
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1 hour ago, Mastergun said:
FYI, Weapon Shield is finally back and available!
Okay. How about the solvent?
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Curly, @MoNsTeR is on the right track. You absolutely do not want to use any of the really slow powders mentioned above. You only have two narrow up ports on your comp. They are not able to handle the gas generated by the slower powders. What the comp cannot handle jets out the front and increases felt recoil. You want a fast powder in the range of N320 or Sport Pistol. Definitely nothing slower than Autocomp.
You are trying to flatten the gun. You can do that easily, but it requires some work. The object is to have almost all the gasses exit through the ports on the comp, with almost none jetting out the front. Hold the front of the comp 1" away from a white no shoot. If there is significant splatter, you have too much powder, or you used too slow a powder. You also want a powder that burns cool, especially if you are going to use FMJs. The ARE going to lead your comp. Hot burning powders will just speed that up.
My suggestion is to start with something like AA2. It is less expensive than Sport Pistol or N320, and slightly slower. I use it for my 124gr 132 PF minor 9mm loads. It burns clean and cool. It is not position sensitive. My backup Open gun wears a three chamber five port comp and three 5/32" poppels. I change the recoil spring to a 6V and shoot the load above. It doesn't 'work' the comp, but is shoots flat and soft. Much more so than factory loads.
If AA2 doesn't float your boat, try a starting load of Autocomp, or a tad above. It is slightly slower than AA2 and generates a lot of gas. Stick with 124s. 115s will require more powder to make PF and will likely be too snappy.
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I reload everything, EXCEPT defensive rounds. Since Federal HSTs are available, why bother. Also, the notion of using XTPs @ 1300 fps is not a good one IMO. It will go through your assailant, especially if it clogs with clothing. Then you risk hitting an innocent bystander. In a defensive situation you are not going to be shooting through barriers, so why do you need hotter than FBI spec ammo? Why do you even need 18" of penetration? That is still going to go through a body. 9" to 12" is what you need. There is factory ammo out there that will consistently penetrate 12" even through denim or a barrier.
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The club I shoot SCSA at the most stores everything in a Conex. There are shelves for some things, but stands and plates are stored on the floor. The stands stack neatly. Plates, because if you drop one pulling it off a shelf, you break your foot. Caps, etc. go into 5-gallon pails. Cases of paint, tape and other accessories go on shelves.
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47 minutes ago, Racinready300ex said:
How much is considered bulk and what kind of price are we talking?
I buy 115 JHP by the case (3900) for a tad over 9 cents each. Good plated bullets cost more, because no one offers them in bulk.
You can buy hard cast and hard cast coated for less, but they are less accurate. Also, the lead up comps. Same for FMJs.
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5 hours ago, sharko said:
Well that was my observation also, could never get as good of accuracy with 147's and only good accuracy with 124/125's if I pushed them fast like 357Sig or major.
So, use JHPs. You can buy them in bulk for less money than good plated. Super accurate. I agree on the 147s. Get them up to 144 PF and one hole groups at 25 yards.
FWIW, my bullseye shooting friends tell me you have to drive 9mm fast to get bullseye accuracy.
FWIW2, RMR 124 JHPs over Sport Pistol or AA2 for 132 PF are superbly accurate. I bought 1k just to try them. I'm back to 115 JHPs now.
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Zoomy, most good gunsmiths are swamped. They are not accepting new work until they can clear a good portion of their backlog. Here is a tip. If you find a good local gunsmith and he tells you 8 months, ask this. I can't leave the gun for 8 months. If you have another barrel job and the fixture is set up in the mill, call me. I'll be right over and you can do mine before you tear down the setup. Quite possibly you jump the line. Most smiths will do all the 1911 barrel work at the same time. They won't finish any other work a customer ordered on the gun, but they will do the barrels while the jig is set up on the mill.
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Having had this conversation before: same primer, same powder, different charge weights to get to say 132 PF: 147s produce the least actual recoil, 135s next, then 124s the 115s, etc. Plug it into the formula and see for yourself.
For 'felt' recoil, 115s hit your hand hardest, then 124s, 135s and 147s. So if you are looking for the absolute lowest actual recoil, and the least felt recoil, shoot 147s. Then take a nap while the sights return.
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On 3/21/2024 at 9:27 AM, shred said:
As someone that was shooting then, "30-yard sprints." were very rarely seen. You'd have Rhodesian walls and gates to climb or jump over and doors and windows and tubes and low ports, shooting out of cars and stuff to drag or carry (you know, "Practical"), but sprinting distances for no reason? Not so much.
This ^^^^. I don't mind doors, drop ports, shooting from swaying bridges, running up and down A frames, throwing a 20 lb. sack of sand onto an activator that is out of the shooting area, unloaded starts where every mag you will use has to be on the start table, seated starts, etc. What I don't like about some of these props is when the stage designer decides to get to cute. On a stage at a LIII match, the shooter had to run up a 6' A frame, engage one target at the top and another halfway down the opposite side while descending. I warned shooters about the slippery A frame. After two squads it was muddy. Even so, a few got DQ'd because they slid down too fast and broke 180 while engaging the target. IMO, that is not good stage design.
My main problem with track meets is I'm old and slow (76). I don't care for score. Bit it is very tiring when you RO five shooters and have to run along with them for a total of 40 yards, then walk it again scoring. On some stages I have to give up the timer, because I can't keep up with the jack rabbits. On others where you have to run backwards 20 yards for the first shot, I definitely give up the timer. Otherwise, I'll end up down range of the speedsters.
Stage designs that allow a number of approaches are interesting. When you see six different stage plans executed, that's a well designed stage. When everyone shoots it the same way, it's boring. So are 32 round stages with only four views. Shoot 8, run a little, shoot 8, repeat twice. Geez! Have a two target array shot through a port. Run around a wall and shoot three targets. Run up, shoot two on the left and two on the right. Mix it up. Throw in a head shot and a long one.
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FWIW, the first five red dots I bought were Burris FF3 8 MOA. The first was on a competition 1911 45. 40k rounds later it is still going strong. I did have to send one back after a long while (5-6 years), because the windage screw let loose. Three weeks later I had it back. Different serial number, and it still works. I do agree there are better choices for USPSA and SCSA.
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What FPP says is correct. It takes practice. You are actually training your subconscious to shoot where you look. When I am in the zone, I don't see the dot. I see the target and I hit it. Look, shoot; look, shoot. As long as I am shooting regularly, that's how it goes. If I take a couple of weeks off, I have to retrain my subconscious. Until I do, I'm aiming and slow.
FWIW, I prefer round windows. All my 'serious' competition guns wear 5 MOA SROs. The only exception is the PCC for SCSA. It wears a 12 MOA dot. In the rare instance I shoot the PCC in a USPSA 'style' match, I swap the diode for a 6 MOA.
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I'm more cautious than those above. I buy roll sized, fully processed, once fired, same HS brass for my 9 major loads. I'm at 175+ PF, so I don't take chances. I pick up practice brass and reload it to minor.
That being said, my shooting buddy loads major in mixed HS, range pickup brass. He has yet to have a problem.
Sorting mixed head stamp brass
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted · Edited by zzt
If you have too much bell in the case mouth after expanding, it will cause problems.
In any case, I'd suggest switching to a Mr. Bulletfeeder two step expander/funnel and changing the stem on your seating die. That will eliminate the need to 'align' the bullet before seating. No 'bell' is required with the MBF expander.
You may also consider going to a Hornady seating die. It aligns the bullet no matter what stem you use.