peterthefish
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Posts posted by peterthefish
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Yeah I don't think you'll need federal primers, should be fine with any SPP.
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Really no need to run a U Die - anything other than a Dillon should get far enough down on the case to size out any bulge that could cause chambering issues. I've sized mixed 9mm Major brass w a plain old RCBS carbide die and it chambers / extracts fine.
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You didn't mention in the OP, do you have the extended striker as well? My Open Glock (not a ZEV build buy using a fulcrum trigger w 2# striker / 11 lb recoil spring) reliably lights off CCI Magnum SPPs. I'll have to check for SRPs, but you could probably get away Mag primers.
The plunger bump on the ZEV triggers is a bit smaller than stock Glock but at the same height, just a sharper radius. Never had an issue w any of my 3 fulcrums with the ZEV extended striker.
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It's the FN exception.
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I have 147 moly , 124 and 115 montanas some 160 bayous too, solo 1000 , hp38 , hs-6 powders . I've played around with some but she really runs slow
What kind of bullets / powder?Anyone have a recipe that makes 125 PF with the 929?
Solo 1000 is pretty close to N320 so I'd imagine you might make minor with 2.9 - 3.0 GR and 160 Bayous. I don't like 231/HP 38 with heavier bullets. I'm sure you could cram enough HS6 in to make minor with any of those bullets too. I'll be working up some loads this winter and will keep them posted, but I'm having the same problem with velocity. Seems to run almost 100 FPS slower than the same loads out of my autos.
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Anyone have a recipe that makes 125 PF with the 929?
What kind of bullets / powder?
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My Friend Duke, just told me he solved his sticking issue by using a under sizing die. His load is with TG and Berry bullet at a 138 PF with no problem ejecting.
I'll second this - reaming the chambers is an expensive way to fix an ammo issue. There's nothing wrong with the blue kool-aid, but the Dillon sizing die doesn't size as far down to the base as most other sizing dies - the opening is flared more for ease / speed of loading but the downside is what you're seeing.
I don't even run a U-Die, just a standard RCBS carbide sizing die and I've never had a round hang up going in or coming out. Two other guys I shoot with who load on Dillons could not use any brass they'd shot in an auto in their 929 - sorta defeats the purpose to me. I mix all my 9mm brass and never had a hang up.
Those guys are switching to U-Dies and I expect that'll solve that problem.
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I usually see slide rackers in open pistols but not in limited or standard. Is that because of the rear sight? No space for rackers?
That and the fact that optic mounts on open guns generally interfere with getting a good grip on the slide. Really not needed on limited guns.
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The case wall in a 9mm tapers - thick at bottom, thin on top. A 147 GR bullet is longer than a 115 GR. If you seat to the same OAL you are encountering thicker case wall and more tension to overcome with the press. Not a compressed load.
Anyway to overcome this, if this is the case(which sounds plausible) or is it just something I have to deal with?
As others have mentioned, you can try an M die or load to a longer OAL. Some brass is more prone to this effect - mag tech (CBC headstamp) is one I've had a particularly hard time with.
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I doubt they are compressed. There are a bunch of threads here already about EXTREME bullets getting the slight ring or dimple from certain seating dies. It's just soft plating. If those charges are published and safe shoot them.
My 115g loads to the left have ZERO ring using the same seating die. Thats why I was thinking compressed. That and when I backed them out to 1.350 I didnt have the ring.
I was also thinking along your lines of the plating being soft. Maybe the 147g plated arent the greatest idea and using a real jacketed 147g would be better.
The case wall in a 9mm tapers - thick at bottom, thin on top. A 147 GR bullet is longer than a 115 GR. If you seat to the same OAL you are encountering thicker case wall and more tension to overcome with the press. Not a compressed load.
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I went with the alum. My research on various forums and talking to shooters was the alum held a zero better than the plastic. three
As long as the plastic housing near the adjusting screws does not crack, it will hold zero as good as the aluminum C-More. Unfortunately it not a matter "if" the housing will crack, but a case of "when" it will crack.
I have three of my five C-Mores with plastic housings are cracked. All care was taken to avoid these cracks but they still appeared. I agree that the aluminum housings are heavier, but its not so much that you will have a hard time adjusting.
Centerfire Systems is still trying to get rid of their remaining C-More stock and has it nicely discounted.
Bill
Thanks for the heads up!
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I used 4.2 of power pistol - made minor no problem. Crimp to .379, OAL 1.14 - 1.145
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Sigs are seriously underrated and very good 1911s. They do apparently advertise a 9mm 1911 but I have never seen one.I am new to 1911s but hardly ever see the Sig name mentioned. Must be a reason eh?
I've got a 9mm Sig 1911. Cost under $900. My DW PM-9 is relegated to a backup role now since the tighter chamber makes it much pickier about ammo and I hate to case gauge.
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Hello: Red Dot works for 45 as well. Promo is the same as red dot without the red dots. I still have lots of Clays and Clay Dot but will be needing some Tite Group, HS-6, Auto Comp, Extra-Lite, 20/28, Green Dot next year. Thanks, Eric
Promo performs the same as Red Dot on a weight basis, but does not have consistent density from lot to lot. As a result, one needs to check their powder throw and may need to adjust the measure when switching to a new jug.
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But it would be a lot closer. And shooting around barricades wouldn't be blocked.
Not that much closer. And I would think even with a central camera you'll still see around most barricades - even if you're so close your weak eye vision is blocked the camera is still further out.
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Even if the camera was on top of the frame it would be at least an inch above your pupil so you wouldn't see the sight picture, dot, etc...
Just ordered a pair of these - can't wait to check them out.
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It's on the faster side of slow powders. Probably going to have a hard time working the comp efficiently on a .40 either way. Best effect would probably be with a 135 GR FMJ and some Autocomp or HS-6 but it'll cost you (if you can even find the powder).
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It's probably a stretch to call it a Glock .
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Man looks like the price has gone up a bit from $300 though!
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I had too file a bit off the moving piece to fit the front of the trigger guard, but had to move to a dremel to get enough off the front of the block where it was binding against the top of the trigger guard where it meets the frame. It was a PITA.
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If price is the objection, skip the brass and bullet feeders. I do 400-500 / hour on a Hornady LNL AP - I can only imagine the 650 is as good or better.
Beats the heck out of the 50-100/ hour I got out of the T7. I went from shooting 500 rounds per month to more than twice that.
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Inline Fabrication makes a mount which allows swapping presses by unscrewing two brass thumb screws. The mounting plates attach to the press, and they also make a wall mount which will hold the presses out of the by the mounting plate.
I use it to swap between my LNL AP, Redding T7, and a bench vice.
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Thanks for the quick reply. Yes this is plated Berry's.
Will flat nose CMJ avoid this issue? Such as the MG CMJ flat nose ones?
Thanks.
Any jacketed bullet will avoid this as the jacket will not give like the played lead will.
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Rtp hit it on the nose. The only thing I'll add is that the OAL on these will be long because the die reached its end point by displacing some lead rather than seating the bullet fully.
Depending on how close to max OAL on your gun you are, this may or may not be an issue. The worst of mine become practice ammo only. Out of a few hundred only had one that didn't chamber.
Do you still feel as desperate for powder as you did a month ago?
in Miscellaneous BEginners
Posted
I grabbed a 4 pounder of 231 at my LGS in August. They had plenty of HP 38 as well.