peterthefish
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Posts posted by peterthefish
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You will most likely need to take a little material off the collets to have it feed correctly. I haven't run blue bullets through it yet (I'll actually try tonight - haven't loaded in a couple weeks) but it chokes on Bayou bullets. No issue with any plated or FMJ.
From what I read you should be able to take enough material that it will run both coated and Plated / FMJ.
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Lookup the whois information for the URL
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I'd like to know what you all r using to measure you're case mouth ID's with to come up w numbers to the .0005"
Calipers r no where near that accurate even with a guage ring.....
Nick
Expanding ball gauge and micrometer. Cheaper even than a good set of calipers.
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Just got in line for a .40 limited at Brazos. Got rid of a NIB P7M8 and was looking at an Edge. Then just a couple hundred more for a Dawson hard chrome CRP. Then just a couple hundred more for this...
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Competition Electronics is the best for the money !
http://www.competitionelectronics.com/product/prochrono-digital/
100% spot on.[/quote
QFT. Get the USB / Software and bring a tablet to the range. Who needs a printer?!
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I do not think that is enough crimp
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As other have said, well known issue with CBC brass due to thickness of walls, in combination with a square base bullet. Makes seating them straight all but impossible and a slight variation causes too much bulge to chamber. Went through this with CBC and Zero bullets. Now CBC & Aguila go to the trash can. Crimp issues would effect all brass equally.
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Never owned a plastic one. Have a couple of aluminum ones. Downside - no flashy gun matching colors. Upside - it's made of metal, like robots, and robots are strong. Also, much less likely to eventually crack than plastic.
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You won't regret it. My PM-9 was my first DW, had four in short order.
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I have a few lone wolf barrels - never an issue, even with the 6 port G35 9mm conversion I used to use for open.
The newest barrel I got has the stupid wolf on the left side rather than the barrel hood so it's hidden by the slide. Shoots 2 1/2" at 25 yards easy and I'm not a very good shot...
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I was wondering the same thing, but in particular what kind of load would be good for 9mm. I would think a subsonic/sub-minor 115 gr probably wouldn't be reliable for knocking down poppers but would work for plates. I was thinking maybe along the lines of a sub-minor 124gr at 1000 fps or less might work but I haven't tried it at the range to see if it's reliable in knocking down poppers. I would like to stick with 124 gr since that's what I load for USPSA production.
Thoughts anyone?
Sub minor you're fine to go with plates. You'll be able to take down a well set popper too, but at about 110 PF they can be SLOOOOWWWW fall and you might either find them in the way after a shot or falling so slow you take unneeded makeup shots.
So just game things - 105 PF ammo for stages with few poppers, 130 for stages with many poppers.
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Maybe you mean angled rearward to push the gun forward?Hello: Mine has a "V" shaped port to divide the charge into 2 vectors. The ports are also ANGLED FORWARD to push the gun forward and down, it also reduces impact on the hands. You are starting to see more comps now with angled ports because they work well. Even STI is doing it. Powder, slide weight, barrel weight, recoil spring choice, mainspring choice and angle of firing pin stop also come into play. Get it all correct and the gun will shoot flat, soft and be back on target quickly. Thanks, Eric
Yes I'm curious about this as well? A port angled forward will push the gun in the opposite direction, just as a port facing up pushes the gun down.
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Lots of folks saying it's basically autocomp with the CFE compound added.
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Hope you guys don't mind me keeping this thread going!!...Red Ryder...I'm currently using a 14 lb. spring (new) in my 34... Would a reduction to 12/13 lbs make a substantial difference with a lighter load??...just trying to get smarterrer............thanks
Worth trying, I like a 12# spring with my load (3.1 N320, 147 GR Bayou).
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I was going to pick up a collet puller anyways, so I guess I'll go that route and check them out as I pull them.
Collet puller is the way to go. I prefer the Hornady cam lock style - pulled about 100 38 short colts in 15 mins the other day - they were loaded with 3.4 GR Titegroup and 158 Gr Berry RN loaded at about 1.140. Quickload showed the pressure at about 110,000, which is probably ballpark since they blew apart the 627 of the guy I got them from.
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Sideways mount isn't really even noticeable once you start shooting. The benefits of having the dot low to the slide are IMO secondary to the open ejection port.
I'll second the SJC Sideways mount - installed in about an hour and holds zero great.
They do have upright mounts but the ejection issues / tuning just aren't worth it.
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3N38 in stock at PV, much less than Butches.
N340, N350, N105 too!
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Double feed as in the empty isn't getting ejected but the slide is still stripping a fresh round from the mag?
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Pictures of a loaded round would be most useful. As Doug mentioned with SWCs your OAL is dictated by the bullet profile. The shoulder should be barely (a business cards thickness) above the case mouth. If those won't feed, try the plunk test to determine the max OAL that will chamber with that bullet and work up to there.
Modern 1911s should not have an issue feeding SWCs.
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A well known shooter uses the Warne Maxima base, minus the front sight that is built into the base, and has a 1/2" tall front sight on the end of the barrel. For the red dot he has a tube type scope on a qd mount. I believe he said that Apex made the tall front sight. I'm not sure who made the qd mount. I've been meaning to setup the same thing but haven't yet.
The Brownell's number for the Warme scope mount is 947-000-101WB, I just ordered one and it is on back order at this time. I understand that you use the 929 rear sight and you need a 1/2 front sight.[/quote
Buds Guns has them in stock for $30 less. Amazon has them in stock too.
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I have a SIG 9mm Match Elite. Makes weight with a FLGR and slim magwell. I've got 3 SIG 1911s and have never had an issue on any. They are fantastic guns.
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Light primer strikes off centered could mean firing out of battery w/c may be caused by a bit short chamber. Glocks' trigger design do fire w/ chambers a bit out of battery. If the chamber is a bit short or the reload is a bit long for the chamber theres the chance of firing oob even w/ heavier recoil springs.
Slide slightly back <> out of battery. Out of battery is barrel unlocked from slide. I have yet to see a Glock that will fire with the barrel hood even a few mm below the slide surface (where it would still be OOB).
You may get a click with the slide not fully forward (due to a long round) but the striker block would catch the striker, and even if it didn't you'd have no ill effect.
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Make sure you dry it thoroughly and quickly when you take it out to minimize tarnish. I rinse mine with hot water then pop it in the convection oven at 175 for 20-30 mins, then bag it with a desiccant (silica gel packs). Stays looking new.I'm loving my setup. Old nasty brass comes out looking like new. I have noticed that it tarnishes fairly quickly.
Oven isn't needed, and with an absent mind can ruin all your cases if the temp is too high.
I dry on a beach blanket in the basement next to the dehumidifier with a fan blowing over the brass. Basement stays at 40-45% humidity. Cases dry externally to the touch in about 4 hours. I wait 24 hours before doing anything with them to make sure the insides are dry.
My reloading area is an unheated space in my basement. Takes overnight to dry even after a towel dry.
I agree the oven isn't necessary, but brass doesn't start to anneal until the temp is well over 400 F, so even leaving them at 200 overnight won't hurt anything (although the wife did preheat the oven for pizza once and could well have spoiled a batch).
We also have very hard water and the oven dry is the only way my brass stays shiny long term.
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I'm loving my setup. Old nasty brass comes out looking like new. I have noticed that it tarnishes fairly quickly.
Make sure you dry it thoroughly and quickly when you take it out to minimize tarnish. I rinse mine with hot water then pop it in the convection oven at 175 for 20-30 mins, then bag it with a desiccant (silica gel packs). Stays looking new.
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I had cleaned with acetone before high strength locktite and allowed 24 hour curing but it would eventually work loose.
This time I used permanent red locktite and so far, still holding. If this doesn't stay tight, a hammer and punch it is...
THANKS!
I used Loctite 272 (Red High Temp) to secure the compensator to my 9mm open gun. If prepped and cured right, it works. Regular red should be fine for a guide rod - they get hot but nothing like a barrel.
New STI DVC Open and Limited guns
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
Brazos asked for $400 for a deposit. Still no firm date that I've see - I'm expecting a wait somewhere between in stock and an all out custom build I guess.