MetropolisLake

So my G35 is in the shop. Was just going to get some stipple, sights, and trigger work. Have the opportunity to lighten the slide then cerakote it while it's there. However I have yet to hear anybody say that lightening the slide on a glock while shooting .40 major is a good idea. It looks really cool but are you really gaining anything? More importantly, are you screwing with the reliability? I've seen old threads here but there's not much on the .40 with a G35. Would like to hear something definitive saying yeah it's cool or hell no don't even think about it. I don't reload right now and am afraid I will be introducing some gremlins and worse performance in the name of good looks.

So basically there is a skeet club I like to go to, will probably hit it more often this year. Last time I went, I had multiple shotguns pointed at me. I mean, everybody knew they were unloaded, but still, it's weird. They would pop a couple of clays with an over/under, pull the gun under their arm, then turn around. They were in the process of breaking it down but sometimes didn't quite get to that point, and sometimes they were broken down and they would sweep with the barrel but the stock wasn't attached. Nobody seemed to care. In 3-gun, people would probably be diving in the ditches and DQ's would be issued. Is this normal in skeet? These are top notch guys running through 20,000-30,000 shotgun rounds a year and I'm lucky to get their help so I'm not about to say anything, it just makes me uncomfortable going from one extreme to another. There doesn't seem to be any hard rules about how you hold it and where you point it between rounds, especially not in regards to right after you just shot. Just kind of odd that 3-gun is on the total opposite end of the spectrum.

I was doing ok until I read that article above. I've been shooting with both eyes open unless I need a lot of accuracy. I'm starting to think that saying "focus" on the front sight is just bad wording. It is literally impossible to have both eyes open, with both of them focusing on the target so only one target appears, yet also "focus" on your front sight. "Pay attention to", or "look at" your front sight even though your two eyes are focused on the target makes more sense. Actually the first response about hard vs. soft focus makes more sense than anything.

I used to buy about the most expensive stuff I could find for my hobbies. Now I'm kind of wondering if it would be cool to embrace the "Thrift Shop" mentality and rock out with a bunch of crappy gear.

My opinion doesn't matter but it seems to me that this would make the most sense from a logistics standpoint no matter how you cut it. If you lived far enough away to have to get a hotel and were going to do both, it makes for a pretty long weekend for only local club matches, but worse than that would be having to double up on travel and wipe out the majority of two weekends. Very local guys might like to stretch it out, but then again you're still jacking with the schedule of the staff like you already mentioned, possibly putting a strain on them. Having both at the same time may attract better shooters who wouldn't bother coming to one or the other as well. I'm probably just going to stick with 3-gun only for now, it's hard enough getting away for one day, paying for one night for a hotel, and buying ammo for one match. I miss enough with my pistol to be the equivalent of shooting a second pistol-only match anyway.

The more I think about it... to be honest I feel like I'm polishing a turd by putting a $60 lever on a scope that I paid $325 for. About 20% of the cost of a scope shouldn't be a little metal stick that you clamp on to it. If I had a $2,200 Swaro it might be a different story. As it stands though, if I'm going to have to scrimp on the scope itself, then it's not getting polished.

If there's enough leverage, the single large zip tie would be even better. Incorporating them into the optic would be nice, that would be cheap and better looking if done during the manufacturing process.

Just think, you could have 5 spares for less the $6! Just kind of a priority thing for me. Mgm is cool and all but for the same price as two switch views, I could have three 5" targets and stands shipped to me. I just ordered six targets and stands from them from them and was looking to scrimp on something else to make up for that hit.

I think they do make a double headed zip tie, you'd just lose the leverage. I wandered the aisles of Lowes plus the website for Grainger looking for things I could use, this was the best I could come up with.

I see so many people wanting a budget throw lever and not caring what it looks like to the point that an $18 fishing rod clamp is being used, so I'm just going to throw this out there. Believe it or not it actually works well. Step 1: Buy a rubber stopper, such as this below, it is taller than it looks in this pic, this is the same one I used: http://www.lowes.com/pd_139549-37672-881323_0__?Ntt=881323&UserSearch=881323&productId=3013260&rpp=32 Step 2: Drill a hole in it straight through, maybe 3/8" from the narrow end, barely big enough for a zip tie to go through. It helps to hold the stopper in vice grips. Step 3: Insert a zip tie, clamp on to the scope pretty tightly (I used vice grips to pull on it), then cut the excess off. Viola, you just made a throw lever for maybe $1.20 total, with tax. Pic is attached. Ideally it would be sanded to contour to the scope but it works without doing that on my MTAC. Yes it's a tad bit less than professional looking. If that's what you want, spend $60 per gun on an MGM SwitchView.

Yeah I would back up. 7 yards is very close from what I've seen. Try a small target at 15 to 25 yards and see if you get the same results. I've had multiple pros tell me that the draw time doesn't matter at all in 3-gun too.

I can handle a ghost image of my sights. What I can't handle is two targets.

http://www.homedefensegun.net/front-sight/

Here's something I don't get. So you're supposed to shoot with both eyes open. Fine. But, you're apparently also supposed to focus on your front sight, allowing the rear sight and the target to blur. Sounds good at least. Do you know what happens if you do both these at the same time? You see two targets! How are these two ideas compatible??? Makes no sense.

I went round and round with this as well. I am familiar with the differences, and on some level, it seems to be a toss up, assuming you can run a Glock well. The glocks can be drawn and thrown in a bucket without worrying about the safety, will be very reliable, they're affordable, and have a ton of aftermarket support. The 2011's can't be beat in the accuracy department though, due to the trigger. You will never find a Glock trigger that feels like that. With 3-gun having longer distance small targets, this can be a significant advantage. Yeah there's alot of bleed-over from USPSA but the reality is that the real good 3-gun guys shooting 2011's are usually shooting 9mm's, meaning they bought it specifically for 3-gun, as 9's in USPSA don't get you major scoring.

Also having a GlockTriggers.com "Edge" trigger installed next week, supposed to take out the pre/over travel and help with this a ton, plus alot less friction during the trigger pull, weaker striker spring, and a easier trigger pull. We shall see.

if (scope.price <= 500 && scope.GoodStuff) { recommend(scope); return true; }

Just as an update, after dry firing a blue million times, I found that even without a trigger job if I used the tip of my finger instead of being well onto the pad, movement pretty much ceases. It still vibrates but it doesn't violently whip to the side like it was. I guess I'm supposed to be shooting like this anyway but I will have to train myself to do so.

I've gotten a lot better with my Glock grip, two thumbs forwards, it feels correct. However I can't do the same with an FNX-40, the safety is right in the way, which is lower and farther forward than a 1911, plus the lever is not bent where it goes out of the way, it's just right there where my thumb needs to go. The only thing I can seemingly do is have my right thumb be jacked out to the side a bit. Am I missing something? I don't know what to do. Apparently there is a good reason as to why they got rid of the thing on the FNS-9L.

Ok, let me rephrase that a little... is there any reason I would regret getting a ZEV polished stainless magwell over a Zev or Dawson aluminum one? Same price, seems like it would be superior if they do what is claimed.

I'm curious as to how accurate a G35 can be with a conversion barrel to 9mm.

Just don't go prone.

I've seen this asked elsewhere with no definitive answer. Does adding weight to a magwell "really" help with recoil? If so... why are seemingly the most popular magwells made out of aluminum? That seems to be inferior anyway since Dawson has that insert so it doesn't get beat up. Why wouldn't they all be made of heavy brass or stainless steel? Seems to me that you would always want to weight up the back/bottom of a pistol if possible if it did help, unless you went over a given weight limit, plus heavier materials wouldn't get beat up. I don't understand the popularity of aluminum.

Do these crinkle finish ZEV magwells not mess up your magazines? Seems to me that you ought to want something that is as smooth as possible in order to be fast. The crinkle finish seems like it would chew up the plastic that surrounds Glock magazines. From a technical standpoint how is that better than Zev's polished stainless, Dawson's aluminum with plastic insert, or SJC's polished brass with the black coating?

Should be no surprise that it's never going to feel like a worked over 1911 trigger. That being said, I just came off of 1911's and I just sold mine to fund building up my G35. It takes getting used to, mainly in the form of dry firing the hell out of it. A 1911 trigger's only job is to let go of a hammer. A glock is actually pulling the striker back while you pull. Plus, and especially at first, you have a ton of friction. All the stock connectors and whatnot rubbing against each other is what you're feeling. That's why people polish the internals. Or just dry fire and run through about 5,000 rounds, that'll do it plus you'll be used to it. Shoot 180 grain rounds and watch the video below, trying to mimic what he does. To be honest I shot my 1911 rather sloppily, which was masked by not feeling the need for fast follow up shots, a heavy frame, and a good trigger. Glocks are a different beast, you actually have to know how to man handle them.