RDA
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Posts posted by RDA
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I was confused as you wrote "I ordered a set of new Dillon 9mm dies" so I thought you ordered them from Dillon. Sounds like you bought them in a private transaction from another individual.
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Citric acid doesn't provide any protection to brass. If left on the brass it can actually do the opposite. It should be rinsed well to fully remove it from the brass or neutralized before drying/storage.
I do rinse my brass after the citric bath. Here is a 37 page thread about citric acid brass cleaning, including some chemistry information somewhere in there about how the citric acid passivates the brass.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?83572-Citric-acid-brass-cleaner
I am not convinced that the citric acid passivation of stainless steel correlates to the cleaning of brass (and the potential protection it may lend).
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Normal (there is no expanding ball like a typical sizing die).
Millions upon millions of cases have been resized and trimmed using the Dillon trim die. If you need to open up the neck, use a Lyman M die or a traditional die with the expanding ball. -
I'll try this on some tumble cleaned brass that has tarnished while setting around to be loaded.
It will work well for that. Plus the citric acid will protect the brass for a pretty long time.
Citric acid doesn't provide any protection to brass. If left on the brass it can actually do the opposite. It should be rinsed well to fully remove it from the brass or neutralized before drying/storage.
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From Dillon, just the pistol dies (Dillon refers to them as "Dynamic" in reference to the snap spring decap assembly. The rifle dies are of a more traditional design, I don't see how you could do a spring loaded version with the neck sizing/expanding ball.
http://www.dillonhelp.com/Dillon%20Manual%20PDFs/dillon_die_instructions_may_2007.pdf
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why not take 115 Blue Bullets sale- 2206 for 3,600 125rn or 192$ for 3,000 147 rn,free shipping.
How certain are that they will allow you to combine the free shipping code and the 15% sale, they are two separate coupon codes.
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Mr Morris, you sure your this fast. WOW "Even loading .223 manually I can run in the 2000 rounds per minute" I may have you use my BS card there.
Ha, at first I thought "wait what" then I reread jmorris' post. Indeed that is really, really fast.
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I have a question.
I don't reload 5.56/.223 yet, but plan to in the future.
It appears the standard is to trim, prior to resizing.
Wouldn't the resizing process actually lengthen the brass when it is sized prior to reloading?
Trim while you resize. With a Dillon trim die and the RT1200 (or RT1500), that is what you are doing.
You can do it either way (trim before resize or resize then trim), but you will get more consistent results if you resize then trim.
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You need to get rid of that silicone Sarge, it is causing you problems. Run the siliconed brass in a dry vibratory tumbler and get off the silicone first. Also, you need to clean the inside of the tumbler and the pins, use a couple tablespoons of Dawn and hot water and run the drum with the pins in for 30-60 minutes and get it rinsed out good.
Try again with the de-siliconed brass and fresh drum/pins. I also recommend 1 tablespoon of Dawn and 1/2 teaspoon of lemishine. Check it at 60 minutes and you'll know if this worked or not.
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An odd arrangement. The primers won't reseat themselves in the primer pocket on the upstroke of the lever anyway.
Sure they will, multiple threads in these forums complaining of that very issue.
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Dictionaries are wonderful.
damp: slightly wet: her hair was still damp from the shower. moisture diffused through the air or a solid substance or condensed on a surface, typically with detrimental or unpleasant effects.
dampen
1 make slightly wet: the fine rain dampened her face.
2 make less strong or intense: nothing could dampen her enthusiasm.
Shock absorbers dampen the bumps in the road.
Yes they are. The definition you provide for "damp" is a noun, it is being used as a verb above and damp is defined as:
a : to affect with or as if with a noxious gas : chokeb : to diminish the activity or intensity of <damping down the causes of inflation> <liquid damps out compass oscillations>c : to check the vibration or oscillation of (as a string or voltage) -
Damping grease? Do you mean "dampening?"
If you want to get your press wet you're welcome to dampen it.
If you want to reduce the energy of the shell plate rotation to avoid throwing powder and dislodging bullets you'll need to damp it. This can be done on some presses by tightening the adjustment, heavy standard grease can help, and grease specifically designed to damp movement works especially well.
I agree with your proper use of the term "damping", but it was funny you used it once correctly and then used "dampening" the third time in the same post.
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Am I missing something here?......are we assuming that theses 650's do not use the Dillon powder alarm????
I don't see how it is possible to double charge any pistol round with a properly adjusted powder monitor !!
Is a slow study so don't poke fun if I miss the obvious.......happy Thanksgivng to all!!!!!!!
My get here is that the 550 has no powder check, so the OP went to a 650 to. Have a powder check station.
Actually, it sounds like the OP went to the 650 to get auto indexing which he believes will prevent a double charge. I personally don't think auto-indexing guarantees anything as you can still screw things up. But, it does help as does a powder check, avoiding disruptions, being alert, checking cases for powder visually, good lighting, a good load with a powder that isn't too dense, etc.
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produces less shine? I triple cleaned brass when I dry tumbled, and thought I had bright shiny cases, until I wet tumbled and found out how wrong I was.
I would agree, I get clean cases with dry tumbling but nothing gets as clean and as shiny as I can get with wet tumbling.
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If you had ever used a Dillon pistol die, you'd know the first time you used it.
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Well, I thought N320 was a low density powder, but on the burn rate chart, TiteGroup is #10 and VN320 is #18, which suggests similar densities.
Powder density and burn rate are not correlated.
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anti bullet set back....
in itself a good idea, in practice causes bigger problems.
miranda
I don't think those ledges had anything to do with "anti bullet set back", I think it was purely a by product of their manufacturing technique.
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I am guessing the acronym is Franford Arsenal Rotary Tumbler.
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What typically happens with the small pins is that two of them get stuck in the flash hole. Like this (pic found courtesy of Google):
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I shoot the Hornady 55 grain FMJBT, I believe they are the best value in a 55 grain bullet.
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You may be interested in this:
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=174006 -
Rda what is your test for how cool a load runs?
A couple mag dumps out of a suppressed M-11 will give your answer pretty quickly.
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I made a mixed mag with n320 and another not knowing the positions of each and I couldn't tell a bit of difference. So not worth any extra to me. Ymmv
Possibly, but tough to beat how consistent N320 meters and runs cool and clean, that won't show up in your testing but does in mine.
I also use Tightgroup (one of my least expensive powders) it costs about $5 less per thousand rounds compared to N320 (my most expensive powder), I prefer the N320.
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I'd strip it down, clean, lube.... and reload.
You may want to reassemble before you begin to reload.
One Shot and a 550
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Depends which one you used, One Shot "Gun Cleaner & Dry Lube" or One Shot "Case Lube":
Either one I would clean off of loaded rounds.