RDA
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Posts posted by RDA
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I don't load 300 bo so this is just purely 2nd hand knowledge but I've heard guys loading 300bo and using larger cast bullets use the 30 carbine expander funnel. it's marked "C" and is part 13564.
apparently the AK funnel commonly used to load 300bo won't give enough expansion/bell for cast bullets.
If that doesn't solve it then I'd suggest the best option is remove powder check and run an expander die.
Agreed, I have both funnels, the 30 Carbine funnel can be used to expand the neck as needed:
Whereas the AK funnel works like a typical rifle funnel:
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9mm Glocks don't cause a bulge. You still have some other issue with sizing your brass or your bullets are being seated crooked.
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But wait, if gun shows go away, how will all these guns change hands without backgrounds checks?
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This may or may not help, only thing I found with EDGE on the headstamp but 338.
http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f17/338-edge-match-brass-finally-103526/
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I see the problem has already been determined. I was going to say that I specifically wet tumble with pins to debur my rifle brass (i.e., the opposite of what was happening here).
Glad you discovered the problem. After tumbling, i rinse my brass well, shake it in a rubber colander to get any extra water off then pour out onto a large towel. I roll the brass around on/in the towel to get most of the water off then leave to finish drying, works great.
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That's the AT-500 powder die, part # 16629. It is not for use with an auto powder measure. My understanding is that it will work on any Dillon press.
Notice that is has a set screw. It is used to lock the powder drop tube and expander in place. A funnel goes on top. Allows for powder to be measured off press and hand dropped into the case.
This is my understanding,someone please correct if I have misstated.
That's correct, I use one at times during load development when using my RCBS Chargemaster.
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Dillon specifically advises not to move the tab, it is not an adjustment device, it is there to protect the edge of the plastic.
The metal tab is specifically adjustable to ensure cases drop properly, particularly with rifle cases. I have to close the opening using the tab when running 300BLK cases, otherwise they will drop upside down.
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So here we go again about the powder check system. I have 6 heads all with powder checks for 6 calibers. I never can get the powder check to work properly all the time. It gives false warnings mainly on the smaller calibers like 223,380 and 9mm. How do you like the thing. Since I was new to reloading when I bought all the quick change kits and powder checks I thought it might save my hide but it's really a pain. Brian, what say you.
Adjust it so it is less sensitive.
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I would like to see N330 again. MG 124 JHP 4.4gn of N330 OAL 1.100 AV 1029 ES 20 SD 7 1" group at 15yards
Did they say who the importer is?
No he didn't! I would like to know who it is, But I guess they cant divulge that!
It's no secret, the importer in the US is Hodgdon, it is noted on their website for that matter:
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I would like 4lbs of VV not to be as much as 8lbs of every other good powder.
Where can I find 8 lbs of every other good powder for $107?
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Hodgdon is the VV importer. I'd like to see N120 return as well. Never tried N330 but would if I could get a hold of it.
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Ok so I just got my RT1500 all set up on my LnL and I have been trying to dial it in to trim to 1.75 but I cannot get any consistency no matter what I try.
Currently my die setup is
Station 1 - Decap
Station 2 - open
Station 3 - Trim/Size
Station 4 - Open
Station 5 - Open
I am getting anywhere from 1.740 to 1.755 which seems excessive to have 15 thousands variance. What is considered acceptable? Is anyone else running a similar setup or have any hints top tricks they have learned along the way?
On my XL650, I see approximately +-0.03" variance. Are you sorting your brass by headstamp and processing them in batches? Is your LNL properly adjusted? How much play is there in your LNL? I know I have very little play in my shell plate and head of my 650 when I process .223 brass.
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Anyone ever run into this problem using wet tumbler an steel media... Where a steel pin lodges and then bends your decapping pin?
Yep, get bigger pins.
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To stop the primer feed, it's pretty easy to take off the primer cam. It's only one screw to remove that's easily accessible.
This is what I do as well.
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I use one of these, do it dry, it will separate the water and pins from the brass. Brass goes to dry and the pins go back into the SS tumbler. I rinse the brass and pins before putting them into the separator.
I do the same as Steve, I haven't felt the need to use water to increase the separation of the pins. I spin for about 30 seconds, reversing direction a few times and rarely do I find any pins with my brass.
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This is why I was planning to go with steel dies if I chose the 223. What is the advantage of carbide if I am lubing the cases either way?Just remember that you still have to lube the cases with carbide dies.
Carbide are designed for commercial loaders.
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Vibra Prime. Mine has worked great, very affordable.
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I run a 10 port compensator on the front of her. Takes away most of the pressure. FTE's with PF under 150 range with this comp.
Thanks, I wasn't aware of the 10 port comp and it's impact.
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I have a 650 with a bullet feeder and I'm having an issue with the bullets becoming "dislodged" from the top of the case after dropping down on the case from the feeder on station three. As you can see from the short video clip it appears that as I complete the up stroke to seat the primer something is pushing on the shell plate which makes it rock back & forth and that motion as the case comes off station 3 is enough to dislodge the bullet from the top of the case causing it to fall off as it arrives at station 4 for seating ....
It also doesn't happen 100% of the time either as I'll get 3-5 cases where the bullet drops onto the case & stays on the case for seating at station 4. Anyone know what's out of adjustment that would cause this?
Your shell plate is too loose, it is rocking as the primer is being seated. Tighten the shell plate down.
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I have a Glock 17 open gun that i run 9mm major loads in (170pf) and want to run it for 3 gun too (no power factor requirement). To keep my loads as cheap as possible i am thinking about running some 9mm minor for 3 gun. The issue is my standard 9mm minor wont run the gun reliably. I already run an 11# recoil spring so lightening the springs wont work.
9mm minor loads are 115's at 130pf with titegroup and federal small pistol primers
Here is the question....
I run my 9mm minor at 1.135. If I shortened the overall length and kept the load the same that should give me the pressure i need to run the gun right?
I am trying to figure out why 130 power factor won't reliably run your Glock 17. What is happening that it isn't running reliably?
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Been loading 40 for a while, just started loading 9 and noticed that the case dips in a little behind the bullet. Is this normal? The top of the case measures .3795 behind the bullet measures between .3750 and .3760. This is on a 550 with dillon dies.
Your dies are sizing down the case more than the bullet diameter. When you insert the bullet, it expands the case allowing it to hold the bullet firmly. The result is the "coke bottle" effect. You aren't seeing it on factory ammo as they don't size down the case as much as your dies do.
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There is a learning curve. Probably too late but the pins have lube or something on them and they need to be ran through once to clean them. If your first batch doesn't look really nice and shiny run it through again with new soap and lemishine.
It took me awhile to get it dialed in but now it's the only way to go
Good advice (on pre-cleaning the pins before first use...they also benefit from a cleaning run on occasion) and another convert.
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I don't think totaling the numbers is a good idea. I think it would invite too many comparisons between dissimilar powders.
Maybe a 1-5 star ranking would be better.
Totaling, weighted totaling/scoring, 1-5 star ranking, it is all the same in the end, you create a score to which powders can be compared (whether similar or dissimilar).
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^
I stated IF THE NUMBERS WERE TOTALED OR SUMMED as was suggested by an earlier post.
Well, you'd have to flip the scale for all of the parameters, not just the cost and availability. The OP suggested originally that the lower number is better (whether totaled or summed or individually). If you want it "so that the higher numbers win" you'd have to flip the ratings for everything.
Wet tumbler
in General Reloading
Posted · Edited by RDA
Try it and find out. With my water and solution, I can tumble for 1 hour and leave it for 23 hours until the next day when I rinse and separate and everything is fine.
Edit: I'll add that sometimes I'll turn on the tumbler for 5 minutes before rinsing and separating (and sometimes I don't) just to make sure none of the dirt has settled or reattached to the cases. I have never noticed a difference either way.