RDA
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Posts posted by RDA
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On 10/22/2016 at 11:38 AM, AbitNutz said:
On my 650 I'm thinking about changing to the following order:
#1 Size/decap/prime
You can't do all of that in station #1.
Priming occurs on station #2. -
23 hours ago, Phlier said:
There are definitely guys that swear by it, and others that swear at it.
I just went and examined 20 of my pre-processed cases under a magnifying glass, and didn't see one with an uneven case mouth. I'm not saying that it is as good as a proper chamfering, but for mass produced plinking rounds, I just don't see the down side.
I do the same and agree, the burrs are gone and the case mouth is more than acceptable for anything short of long range bench rest shooting.
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4 hours ago, dmshozer1 said:
I agree,
That is why I don't understand the statement by people that say they trim all their brass to 1.750 when most brass never reaches that length?
Depends on your brass. I have my trimming operation set to 1.750" and a majority of my brass gets trimmed (most Lake City along with some Federal, PMC and GFL). The Federal is typically shorter than 1.750" IME.
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1 hour ago, resortboarder said:
Thanks for your feedback everyone. I never realized people actually picked up and could restore such dirty brass.
I have cleaned some extremely gnarly brass, black and dirty, some with dirt/mud inside or filled with a liquid of some type, bugs that have nested inside, etc. I get great results wet tumbling.
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9 hours ago, AbitNutz said:
Boy, this is confusing. We have anecdotal evidence that the U-die prevents bullet set back. I'm lost about the true reason to use one of these. There must be something to using a U-die as their use seems to be spreading. It wouldn't surprise me if RCBS, Redding, etc start making U-dies.
It shouldn't be that confusing. The Undersizer die is 0.001" smaller in diameter than typical dies and the bottom edge of the die is radiused which sizes the case further down. The die is good to use if you have a tight chamber or experience cases that are bulged near the base. If you don't have these issues, there is really no reason to use the die as it works the brass, your equipment and you more.
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2 hours ago, Phlier said:
RDA, I'm not sure how this could be a shell plate problem.. wouldn't a problematic shell plate cause problems at *all* stations, and not just station one? I'm not at all familiar with the 650 (only the 550 and 1050), so I'm asking this to learn something new...
Perhaps, but maybe just one or two of the five locations were machined improperly, or the shell plate is warped/cupped, or some of the stations are crudded up not allowing the brass to fully seat in certain stations.
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2 hours ago, Phlier said:
RDA, I'm not sure how this could be a shell plate problem.. wouldn't a problematic shell plate cause problems at *all* stations, and not just station one? I'm not at all familiar with the 650 (only the 550 and 1050), so I'm asking this to learn something new...
Perhaps, but maybe just one or two of the five locations were machined improperly, or the shell plate is warped/cupped, or some of the stations are crudded up not allowing the brass to fully seat in certain stations.
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With the die installed but the guts removed and station #1 empty, can you look down through the die as you raise the platform and observe the alignment? If you can't do this visually, you could use a proper fitting rod/dowel passed through the die and see if the die/tool head is aligned with the shell plate.
Have you tried a different shell plate?
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13 hours ago, ams30gts said:
I know the set comes with a rough cut and a trim die. Are they both the same die or is there any difference between the 2?
As others pointed out, they are different. The rough only partially forms the case, the trim finishes the forming (this is done so the case doesn't spin). I only use the trim die when maintaining the cases (the rough only used when converting .223 cases to 300 Blackout as the first step).
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I have no experience with Tin Star, but as far as I am concerned, it really doesn't matter what load you use in a rifle with a sealed can, the pressure generated will continually be blowing out the can, particularly if you shoot supersonic loads through it from time to time.
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4 hours ago, AzShooter said:
I weight 100 rounds. Most were 216 to 218.0 grains. One came out 122 grains. I think that's the bad one but, I have enough brass to be able to lose 400 rnds. So I'm not going to take a chance. I'll put these in a box and pull them at my leisure.
So pull apart the one weighing "122 grains" (I assume you meant that one has 222 grains) and see if it has a double charge.
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3 hours ago, Butters said:
Why have they dried up, just because they're a little lighter to ignite and thats a hot commodity?
My understanding (or belief) is that Federal was using all of them in the production of their own ammo so there wasn't enough production for the sale of primers as a component.
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26 minutes ago, cnote said:
I have been using them for 2 years now same (cal and weight), and have definitely noticed a color change, deeper red and the coating does not seem as thick
I had the same thing happen with another company over the years and it led me to try others and then to acme
May have to do so again, why is it every time someone wins you over , they have to go and change
Has performance changed?
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On 9/24/2016 at 2:16 PM, Tmcfarland said:
Well, went down to the local Academy and bought some Hornady 75gr HPBT MATCH ammo to shoot so I can see how it shoots out and I found I am way too hard on myself about my loading if this is the norm. Not to knock Hornady but come on! Set me straight if I am headed down the wrong path please, but with the COAL variance of .022" between 20 rounds, I kick mine back if it is more than .003" difference. The cases all measured the same and looked good but I am very interested in seeing how these MATCH rounds chrono and group.
Also, got the Hornady head space gauge and M die in and will build some more rounds tonight. I have been over processing my brass according to the head space gauge so I will reset the size die to just bump the shoulder about .004 to .006 as suggested by others. Another question that I have is since the M die opens up the neck to .221" or so and the projectiles are .222" or so will I need to crimp more? I just barely bump the edge now.
Shoot the Hornady 75gr HPBT MATCH ammo before you get too critical. I'd also recommend you buy a box of Federal Premium Gold Medal Ammunition 223 Remington 77 Grain and shoot four groups with it.
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The switch and power supply (cordset) is the same on the Rt1200 and RT1500, you can just purchase a new one I would imagine.
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On 8/26/2016 at 1:44 PM, Tino2212 said:
I would ditch the Case gauge if the rounds fit your barrel and a different Case gauge !
your question could also be read as :
i just bought a new pair of shoes but my feet don't fit in them ,how do i get my feet smaller so they do ?
for what its wort i never Case cauge , the only thing i do is barrel drop my match ammo , never had a malfunction caused
by my ammo .
But he didn't buy shoes, he bought a car because it is way faster than a pair of shoes. The whole idea is to gauge 100 rounds at a time.
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Not normal for me, I have a couple RT1200s and one RT1500 and they all cut square. The only thing it could be in my head is the die is bent or machine poorly where the motor/threads are not perfectly perpendicular to the die threads/mount.
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REPOSTED FOR JMORRIS
380 shot shells.
First step is to turn the .223 case back and I built a little fixture to trim them to .980"
Once locked into the fixture I rough cut them long then hit it on a disk sander that gets it to .980"
I used Winchester SPP to ignite the N310 under a cardboard wad with 60 grains of #12 shot (about 250 pellets), then a plastic overshot card crimped in place using an old RCBS 45 ACP round nose seat die.
Not the best pattern in the world but not too bad with the small payload.
Even cycles the pistol, here is a video. -
Where are you located? Maybe someone is local that can show you their equipment.
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RDA, it does not fit after sizing so I an going to look there.
Good, get it to fit there (you may need to lower the die further) and then proceed.
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After you size the case (and before loading), does it fit your case gauge? If not, your die isn't set-up correctly.
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Yep loose rounds in 50 and 30cal ammo cans is the way to go. But they do get heavy when full.
Yes they do, I did a full 50 cal SAW can last year with 5.56 for a tac rifle class, that was heavy.
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I did the same with Speer Gold Dot, bought the 124 grain bullets, Speer Nickel Brass and duplicated Speer's 124g +P load with a little trial and error and I practice with the ammo I loaded as often as I can.
And wouldnt you know it, I looked all over the web for those exact bullets last night and they are out of stock across the board. I have made up my mind to load several thousand of these when I can find them again.
They are odd, I have found them somewhat plentiful at times and then no where. I am speculating, but I believe Speer was changing their Gold Dot ammo recently and possibly the old bullet is "no longer available" and they haven't made the new ones available yet? Or they are simply between production runs, I don't know.
If you need some, contact me, I may be able to help.
My friend & shooting buddy, Massad Ayoob (who is a court certified Expert Witness on self-defense shootings in Lord knows how many states) has some strong thoughts against the practice of using reloaded ammo for self-defense. Some are the result of actual court proceedings & verdicts and his reasons against the practice are too long to go into here.
The bottom line is don't do it! The "unintended consequences" can be severe. If you can load the HST bullets to the same velocity as the factory load, then why not avoid all the potential problems and just buy a box of factory loads and run those in your EDC gun, and just practice with your reloads?
I am not recommending hand loading self defense loads (everyone can decide for themselves), but I believe in all the years of hearing this advice, I think I have only seen two court cases where it ever made a difference and even that wasn't exactly clear in my opinion.
I know on the loads I made, they are indistinguishable from the factory loads unless you analyzed the powder itself. Otherwise, performance is identical.
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I did the same with Speer Gold Dot, bought the 124 grain bullets, Speer Nickel Brass and duplicated Speer's 124g +P load with a little trial and error and I practice with the ammo I loaded as often as I can.
primer pocket reamer
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
I wouldn't call that a "swagger" (sic), I'd call that reaming.