RDA
-
Posts
1,213 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Profiles
Events
Store
Posts posted by RDA
-
-
What cases are suggested to be not used?
Everything that isn't 9x19mm luger/parabellum.
The problem rounds that this issue refers to were 9x19 (MAK)
Actually, Makarov is 9x18 (not 9x19),
.380=bad
Kurtz=bad
Makarov = bad
Luger or Parabellum = good
-
What cases are suggested to be not used?
Everything that isn't 9x19mm luger/parabellum.
-
I've been hit in the neck before by a bullet fragment (shooting plate rack). Would have badly damaged an eye.
A friend also got hit in the nose right next to his eye (he was wearing protection of course). I had shot a popper at 25yards so the piece had travelled back nearly 30 yards to hit him (he was behind me) and still drew blood.
I had a decent sized bullet fragment hit me in the lip and get embedded (while shooting a pistol course with steel plate torsos that were properly angled).
-
Best way to purchase reloading supplies is by e-mail.
If they could deliver powder, primers and projectiles by e-mail, I would be ecstatic.
-
When you push new grease in, old grease comes out (and new grease too if you get overzealous).
-
Don't all their presses come with the same warranty..? If you are shooting 1000 rounds a day, seems like a 1050 would probably be good. Or a 650 with a bullet feeder.
As seadog pointed out, the 1050 has a one year warranty from the date of purchase.
-
There are two reasons that you get "little notches" in your case rims; You are not sizing your brass enough or you are shooting a load that it too hot. Recycle that brass.
How does not sizing your brass enough contribute to the "little notches" in your case rims?
-
I have been using Zapp's slotted gauges for a while, both .223 and 300 BLK, work great, really help you to understand where you are having issues when things aren't quite right.
-
If a rd fits in my mag then it should pass the test right?
No, not necessarily,
-
I really like 165's with N310, N320 but they are a little harder to load vs. 147's as I use a Mr. Bullet Feeder on my 650. Load as long as possible.
2.9gr N320
2.7gr N310
Curious, can you feel any difference between those two loads? Do you have a preference?
I have both powders, love N320 but have much more limited experience with N310 (with 124g and 147g bullets).
-
I apologize if this has been answered before. I've spent about a week looking on Google and every other shooting and reloading-related resource for an answer. Essentially what I am looking for is someone who has used both of these trimmers, and am wondering if one is "better" than the other. I have found a brand new 1200 for $225, and a new 1500 for $329 or so from here. A hundred dollars isn't going to break the bank, but if there's no need for the 1500 I don't see the point in spending the extra.
I will be using it to trim .223 and .308 mainly. I also have a .30-30 but won't invest in the die right now. I do not have .300BLK, and have no plans of getting one for multiple reasons. I'm also aware I'd have to use aftermarket dies in my Hornady press in order to trim .223 brass down, and just in case - no, I'm not interested in buying a Dillon press unless I decided a Super 1050 is worth it.
I have heard the 1500 is quiet, but does that mean the 1200 isn't? I'm not entirely concerned about noise, but I don't want to feel like I'm using my 3HP router and have to use earplugs.
Last question, the dies for the 1200 are also the sames dies for the 1500, correct? I've not seen any specific 1500 dies on Dillon's website.
I have both. The sound from either is basically the same. They use the same dies. If you are trimming only, go with the 1200, it will likely last a very long time. The 1500 has more robust bearings and will last considerably longer if using for forming brass (like 300BLK).
-
I think if you are asking the question, it probably isn't the right fit for you to get started.
-
Should've bought a Lee
:roflol: I know more people that have problems with the blue, than the red.
Apparently you don't know anyone running red?
-
Gotcha. Thanks for the tipIt de-primes on 1 and the primer does not fall off of the de-priming pin and gets pulled back partially into the case. Then it moves to the priming station where the old primer is seated by the new primer pushing against it.
Bottom line is you end up with a cartridge with a spent primer in it, which is why it doesn't go bang.
You'll learn to tell when this happens by the feel of the handle on the press...
You can disassemble that round and find out for certain.
-
There is no such thing as Glocked 9mm brass.
-
Have you tried the powder manufacturer's website:
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/data/rifleThe 150 grain is close enough to be a guide.
-
My first question is, will I need to trim once fired brass?
Depends on the length of the once fired brass.
-
It doesn't. If you use just a decapper you can feel just how little effort it takes to pop a primer out. 99% of the resistance met while sizing is well, the sizing.Most of this is an old post, so I'll address this to the last couple posters: do you lube your cases when resizing or run them w/o lube?
I don't see how lube (or not lubing) would have any impact on the decapping process or the breakage of the clips.
Indeed, that was my point. Asking whether the OP lubes or not to ascertain if that is why he is breaking the clips is akin to asking whether he got a full night's rest.
-
Most of this is an old post, so I'll address this to the last couple posters: do you lube your cases when resizing or run them w/o lube?
I don't see how lube (or not lubing) would have any impact on the decapping process or the breakage of the clips.
-
I'd lightly glass media blast them at no cost, only return shipping but that might not make a lot of sense for you.
-
Mine worked great right out of the box with small primers.
-
I load several thousand 223/5.56 and 9mm every year for 3 gun on a 650. Switch over is easy. Primer size is the same, so you do a tool head, shell plate, locater buttons, CF arm and body bushings. The nice thing is the case insert slide cam is the same for 223 and pistol. I forgot you need a small rilfe case feed plate. I too have two tool heads for 223/5.56; a processing tool head and a loading one. Dillon makes a tool head just for the trimmer and it is much easier to use than a standard toolhead.
What Dillon tool head are you referring to? I use a standard Dillon billet aluminum tool head for my trimmer set-up. Or are you referring to the 300 Blackout tool head?
-
For the Cleveland - Columbus Ohio folks. I saw 4lbs of N320 at FFF in Ashland today. $38.99/lb
Too bad FF&F won't carry the 4 lb jugs though.
-
I talked with Gary on this... The jury hasn't reached a verdict, yet, on which Powder Funnel - either the 13564 Carbine funnel, or the 13015 AK funnel - is best for the 300 BO.
It might come down to the bullet you load. For boat-tail bullets, the AK Powder Funnel might be best; for flat based bullets, the Carbine Powder Funnel (because it can flare the case) might be best.
That is why I have both. I use the AK version when loading boat tail bullets and the Carbine version when loading coated lead or flat based bullets.
:roflol:
N310 vs N320 grain size
in General Reloading
Posted
I have had very good experience metering N320 and have seen a considerable number of comments from others saying the same (despite that fact that it is an extruded powder).