RDA
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Posts posted by RDA
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I think that cost and availability should use a reverse scale as both are seen as negatives and if you total the numbers (so that the higher numbers win) you are rewarding a powder that cost more and is hard to find,
Look at it again, he is penalizing higher cost and lack of availability, not rewarding it.
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It could be because he is using .357mag vs your 9mm? Its not an apple to apple comparison so...
I saw that, I specifically mentioned my results were with 9mm for that reason, I am just having a hard time believing the primer compound is making that significant of a difference in any pistol round.
Then try it for yourself using .357 magnums, 1.8" barrel, CFE-Pistol, and Winchester primers. My results varied between a little below and a little above 100 fps. I'm not making this shit up.
BTW: before trying it Hodgdon told me there would be a signicant difference (standard vs magnum primers). After I tested I called them with my results and they confirmed they made sense.
Based on some comments here I was tempted to redo the test, but on second thought I figure that isn't MY problem. I am content with the results for my needs.
I didn't say you were "making this shit up", I said I was having trouble believing your results as they are quite different than mine. Remember, you originally stated 200 fps before you posted a correction which admittedly gives me pause. Maybe CFE has a more difficult time igniting and greatly benefits from a magnum primer which accounts for the significant difference.
I was extremely careful to use the same powders in the same ladder of charges and did ten rounds of each load so I had a sufficient sample with a reasonable standard deviation on each series of loads and shot them back-to-back in one session to eliminate as many variables as possible.
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Didn't mention it, but yeah, I checked all the case lengths. All .0754.
Think I solved the crimp-mark mystery. The bullets are not all the exact same width. There's a deviation of about 0.0005". Enough to account for the crimp mark.
Decimal place matters.
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It could be because he is using .357mag vs your 9mm? Its not an apple to apple comparison so...
I saw that, I specifically mentioned my results were with 9mm for that reason, I am just having a hard time believing the primer compound is making that significant of a difference in any pistol round.
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I keep 20 universal pins on hand. Ill have a pin go 10k rounds and some times I will destroy 2 or 3 pins in 100 rounds depending on the mood of my machine.
Might grab a pack of these.
Whats the main difference between the two? All I can tell is one has a tapered pin and the other has a straight pin.
The tapered pin version is all one-piece. The straight pin version has a hardened tool steel tip that is inserted into the end of the pin.
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200 fps seemed awfully high to me, even 100 fps seems like a stretch.
In my testing using CCI 500 and CCI 550 in 9mm loads, I saw a difference of 10 fps on average with all other things being equal besides the primers.
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0.4 / 10 drops = 0.04 average variation per charge = probably undetectable on the Chrono. Good point.
That isn't how the average is calculated as he said +- 0.4 grain (a potential range of 0.8 grains) and you don't have enough information from his post to calculate it. Regardless, average is irrelevant, standard deviation may be important.
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Sine my original post I've done some testing using CFE-Pistol powder. I have discovered a significant difference in velocity between non magnum and magnum primers (at least with that powder and in one gun - Ruger LCR .357)
Making 50 .357 rounds I discovered a 200 fps difference regardless of starting load, medium load, or max load. Interesting.
Are you saying you are finding a 200 fps difference between the exact same loads with the only difference being a standard primer versus an equivalent magnum primer?
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The copper layer on a Speer GDHP is the thickness of typical jacketed bullets, not typical of plated bullets. They should be loaded and treated like jacketed bullets. They are not "softer" like regular lead or typical copper plated bullets.
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PD bullets are very hard jacketed bullets whereas Gold Dots, if I'm not mistaken, are Plated bullets--aka softer bullets.
Gold Dots (if you are referring to Speer) are not plated. Montana Gold aren't plated either (and are slightly harder than copper jacketed bullets). Not sure what you are referring to as "Gold Dots".
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I found an old container of powder that I used when I loaded shotgun shells that still has a couple of pounds in it. The label says Winchester Ball Powder Super Target AA. Is this the same thing as WST? I can't find anywhere that WST is followed by the AA. Just curious if I can use this powder for 9mm and 45 acp loads as it is not listed in any of my loading manuals, tons of references to just plain WST.
(google image)
Same powder, but manufactured quite a few years apart. I'd think you could use it to work up a load using typical safety precautions.
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Saw a variety of Vihtavuori on the shelf of an LGS today (all one pounders), including N320 which I haven't seen for some time other than online.
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I think 4.0 may be a little llight. I'd work up a ladder from 4.0 to 4.5. At 4.5 with Win 231, I saw 1,055 avg fps (131 pf) from a Glock 19 with a COAL of 1.120.
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do you put the 6" strip on the back post of the press facing towards the front. it seems it's in the way sticking it on the front shinning on the shell plate. at least the light isn't in your eyes. how did you mount yours.
I mounted mine on the front shining back onto the shell plate (as well as the one that goes in the center of the head). I had to replace the strip on mine (great customer service from Inline Fabrication by the way) and bought a second strip and "Y" and added the second one to the back of the press to shine forward onto the shell plate. I am not lacking for light.
did you use the Scotch Brite pad and alcohol to prep the surface before sticking.
It is a good idea, removes any oils/greases that may prevent adhesion.
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I tried dillon dies for 9mm and they would not size the case properly. I tried and tried. Went to a Lee U die and am 15k+ rounds in with zero issues.
Are you using brass shot from a glock? I have heard stories of glock bulge. I'm shooting S&W M&P's and rugers. I'm using dillon 9mm die set in my 550 and have no problem with sizing.
"Glock bulge" doesn't apply to 9mm.
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I never quite understood WHY Dillon designed the primer disc to drop the unused primers at all... it would seem easier to keep them on the disc and have them go around for a second cycle. If a primer is present, it will stop a fresh primer from dropping into place, and it should not bind. The only reason you can't do this now is because the primer indexing arm uses the now-empty primer hole to engage the primer disk... if there were a second set of holes closer to the center of the disc, the primer arm could engage there. The only time this would cause a problem is when you want to empty the primer system, but I can think of at least 3 ways to overcome this relatively trivial issue. What am I missing?
I bet that when a primer returns on the disc under the new primer stack that it caused issues (binding or it would catch on them at times) and it is one of the last places you want any issues.
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How do i get rid of the water spots?
Spin them in a media separator (to separate the pins and spin off as much water as possible), put them in a bath towel and do what Steve noted above, then lay them out on the towel single layer and use another towel to pat them down. Works for me.
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How do you dry the brass?
I spin it in a media separator and lay it out on a towel to dry.
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I think the new Sierra Tipped Match King bullets can be loaded to mag length.
Yes, they can. The 77g TMK does end up seated a bit deeper than their 77g SMK.
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I honestly have no idea how you could seat a new live primer on top of the old unspent primer. I can't imagine doing it once without a KABOOM. Federal primers are well known as being very soft.
As far as seating the soft Federal primers in an empty primer pocket,
- Do you have the swaging set-up correct? Maybe you are trying to seat the soft primers in unswaged 9mm brass.
- Maybe your batch of primer are out-of-round and causing seating issues.
- Or you don't have the priming set-up correctly.
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Leaves a protected shine. Steel pins do not.
BTDT, Not even close.2 cap fulls of NU finish car polish with 2 cap fulls of Mineral spirits. Stir it around in walnut media before adding brass. Almost as good as steel pins!
Steel pins don't, nor does walnut media. But what you add to the water can (just like what you add to the walnut media).
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Is it just me, or has the advent of the cheap SS tumbler started a pissing contest over who can get the shiniest brass?
There is an old timer in town who ditched his 5 or 6 vibratory tumbler/media bookshelf for a SS tumbler after I showed him how fast I ran eleventy billion pieces of 9mm in tap water and lemishine in a Frankford Arsenal drum. Now he's like a deranged alchemist trying to find the perfect combination of chemicals for SS cleaning. Of course, he tells me about his findings every chance he gets.
He inhaled too much tumbling dust over the years I think.
There may be something to that but honestly, you can only get it so clean and so shiny. I have take incredibly nasty range brass and after 1 1/2 hours in the FA tumbler with Dawn and Lemishine, it is as clean and shiny as brand new Starline brass. That works for me.
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I thought it was strongly recommended to NOT tumble live ammunition.
There is no harm in dry vibratory tumbling loaded ammunition.
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Run it again with Dawn and the LemiShine and you should be really impressed.
Great results but what Steve said, use Dawn and Lemishine (I use 1 tablespoon Dawn and 1/2 teaspoon of Lemishine) and you'll be happy.
I nearly bought a second one on that Amazon deal even though I really don't need two, that was a great deal.
Lee Universal Decapper Upgrade
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Yes, the lengths differ, I tried to use the .223 version in my universal and it was too short.