openclassterror
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Posts posted by openclassterror
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+1 on the JP. I have installed more of these in our shop than all others combined. It is 90% as good as a trigger that costs 2-3 times as much. It isn't a Geissele or a Wilson, but doesn't cost near as much either. I find that I can shoot controlled pairs with my son's rifle with the JP just as accurate and fast as with my Jard, and I don't have to chase the adjustment every 6 months like the Jard needs. The installation DVD makes at-home installs easy.
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I haven't gotten around to ordering enough to have inventory on the shelf. They are readily available direct from Taccom. Trubl here on the Forum is the owner. It isn't a clamp exactly. It does clamp around the mag tube, but floats around the barrel. The point is that a hard impact may flex the tube enough for it to contact the barrel, but limits movement at that point so damage doesn't occur, without contacting the barrel under normal conditions so slug POI is not affected. I prefer it to a conventional clamp setup, because you don't have to re-zero for slugs every time you disassemble for cleaning.
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Agreed. That is a pretty impersonal way to find out. I am sorry for your loss
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To some extent, physiology plays into this. A guy who bench-presses 300 will probably find that when he reaches forward to grab the grip, his pectoral effectively fills the "pocket" and it disappears. Same with a guy who is roly-poly. Add the two together (well, I USED to bench 300. Shut up already!) and there really isn't a pocket at all. My normal shotgun hold has become the crease where the pectoral goes under the arm, on the front of the deltoid, because it is the only place I can consistently mount the gun the same every time. This is about 1-1/2" further outboard of where the stock would be if I had the "pocket" that skinny guys who don't power lift have. It is hard to write universal rules of fit that apply equally to a basketball player, a rugby player, and a 'call of duty' player. Pat has done an admirable job, but of course somebody out there can prove themselves the exception to the rules of proper fit. Humans just vary too much from the ideal form.
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That is great! I am approaching a major surgery myself, and a lot of the apprehension is concerning my ability to shoot when I come out the other side. This is encouraging to me, thanks
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+5 is about 3/8 longer than 24" barrel. Capacity is 9+1+1 (ghost load). +9 is about 10 or 11 inches longer than barrel. If the factory front isn't bright enough for you the HiVis Comp sight gives you lots of dot size and color choices, but is retained by a single screw in the factory location. It can be rotated if struck on an object. Our dovetail front is much tougher, but is high enough that the XS rear sight must be used in conjunction. This does however greatly improve slug accuracy without getting in the way of aerial targets.
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That is super awesome! I am certain you will be happy with your pick. It is one of the best values on the market, and the difference in money is best spent on shells to become proficient with it. Welcome to the club of happy Stoeger owners
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The rocker is a cool shape and it won't get hung up when you mount the shotgun. The only reason we went with the 111 is for cost-effectiveness and ease of installation. The rocker needs blocks fit into the stock because the screw holes don't line up. This is beyond the abilities of the majority of home gunsmiths.
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RCI and Carbon Arms make integrated tubes for it. For heavy duty use that might be somewhat more durable. That said, I run a +9 extension (13rd total) on the factory mag tube WITH NO CLAMP and toss it in dump barrels constantly. Mine has about 12k rounds through it now, and the tube is holding up fine. We manufacture an adapter nut specifically for the Stoeger which uses the Nordic MXT series tubes. This year Nordic started making a Stoeger specific nut as well. So whether you order ours or Nordic's the only difference is the adapter nut, and the price is within a dollar or two. The integrated tubes are MUCH more expensive. But if you are using it as a stand-off device to keep angry pigs at bay, it might be worth the expense
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The Kick-eez #KZ-111 pad has the correct screw spacing for a cut-down Stoeger stock. There is basically no extra material on the toe end of the pad, all grinding is on the sides and the top. Sorbothane is tricky to grind. Requires basically a brand new disc on the disc sander to keep from smearing or chunking. Hand blending is done with abrasive strips and WD40 as a wetting agent. We tried the Limbsaver for P3K, and it showed promise at first. They do soak up a lot of recoil, and let the gun move enough for the inertia spring to store energy even if you use a tighter hold. BUT, durability isn't good (they tear easily), they don't make one with the correct screw spacing (so filler blocks are necessary), and they never look good if you grind them. Eventually we went back to the factory pad with kick-eez offered as an upgrade. I really wanted to Limbsaver to work. The 10001 is the right shape(ish) for an uncut stock. But there just isn't a way to make it look professional on a cut down stock.
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Generally speaking, the Stoeger CAN be cut into the magazine tube some distance without causing loading issues, but I am aware of one M3K that has our standard "MAX port" cut and has been hanging up when loading strong hand. I have just heard that it will be coming back for evaluation, so I may be able to add more info on this issue within a few days. We have sent quite a few out with the same cut and no issues, but I can't say for sure what it is hanging up on until I test it personally. I will post results as soon as I discover the cause.
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The back half of the receiver is much thicker behind the barrel recess. You will probably find, however, that once you add a Pic rail and an optic your cheek weld is becoming impossibly high. You will need to made significant shim adjustments to get drop and cast back into the appropriate range. You may need to add a cheek pad/ riser as well.
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It is, but on a lot of shells you have to do the math because the PF numbers are not on the box. Also, depending on barrel length, back boring, forcing cone length, etc, your shotgun may not produce the published figures. A lot of chronos don't reliably read on shot because the wad/ shot string can cause false triggers. So a lot of this is just "by guess and by golly". Kinda like me shooting at flying clays.
Edited because I can't spell "chronos", apparently.
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Here is one we put together. It worked, but dumping it was a problem......... Also, it hit the ceiling if I tried to stand it up in the corner of the office.
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At the local match level, our range has only two bays with significant distance. So, when we have a match, there are typically several burner short course stages, and one or two with long range. Hence, all the cool/ difficult long range stuff is combined into a single stage. Now this plays to my advantage, because I am an accomplished rifle shooter, and I lose ground on the "run around and blaze with a pistol at 10 yds and rifle at 30" stages because I am fat and broken. So when we used to do total time scoring at the club level, I usually ran away with the match every month. Here is how it worked:
Stage 1: long range
Long range stage has a plate rack at 200, flashers at 275 and 350. Total of 8 long targets on a single stage. Assorted other rifle, shotgun and pistol stuff. Average stage time, say 140 sec. I go one for one on the 8 targets in 11 sec. Second place averages two shots per target, and takes 26 seconds. Otherwise we are within 2 or 3 seconds. My time=98 sec, second place 111 sec.
Total Time: 98 to 111
Points: 100 to 88.2
Stage 2: classifier
Lets say there is little movement, so his foot speed advantage is negated, but he is a little faster with the pistol. I shoot a decent 14.2 second time, he shoots a quick 12.6
Total time: 98+14.2= 112.2 for me, 111+12.6= 123.6 for him
Points: 100 to 88.7 his advantage. Total points 188.2 for him, 188.7 for me.
At this juncture, points has us in a dead heat, and the trophy is up for grabs on the third stage. BUT, in total time I still have more than an 11 second lead going into the final stage. Even though I was about 12% faster on my good stage, and he was about the same faster on his. So, for argument, let's say that he is a GM with the pistol, and I am a B class shooter, and the classifier turns out a little different. Say I shoot my 14.2, and he blazes it in 8 seconds. He is DEFINITELY a better shooter, since I only beat him by a small margin on the long stage, but he has barely half my time on the classifier. Unfortunately for him, he only regained 6 seconds back of my 13 second lead, because the course is so short. So, due to our range layout restrictions, essentially the guy who wins long range wins the match, even if he is only mediocre in ALL OTHER DISCIPLINES. So, this is a valid scenario where total time is useless, and that is why our local club abandoned it.
Having said all that, I go to matches that fit my travel/ vacation/ budget, regardless of how they are scored. The scoring methods simply weight the values of given shooting disciplines differently. So, if you are getting your a$$ kicked with one type of scoring system and not the other, you simply need to improve your game in the area that scores the weakest in that system. Simple as that.
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You know Kurt, that is one variable I have not played with enough to have an intelligent answer. All of my experiments have been with balancing gun mass vs bolt mass, bolt mass vs spring tension, overall drag on the reciprocating assembly, Etc. I have been thinking about modifying the recoil sled we used to use to measure the effectiveness of muzzle brakes to measure the relative free recoil of different load/ hull combinations, but it hasn't made it to the top of the list. I know that some 1145 fp loads run reliably in the same shotgun that won't cycle a different brand with the same specs. I am open to anyone's research in this area, as I don't have the time to learn everything I want to know
Purely from a weight perspective, the shorter barrel improves the ratio of bolt mass to shotgun mass for lighter loads. But again, it makes less difference than the weight of the shells in your magazine -
thank you sir. my plan is to cut it to the nearest rib, longer than 18.5 inches. I didn't think it would affect reliability or function, but who better to ask.
It will have no effect on either. Reducing the mass of the gun while the mass of the bolt assembly stays the same will only increase reliability with light loads, if it has any effect at all. But you are talking only a few ounces difference, which is less than the weight difference between an empty magazine and a full one.
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Can anyone tell me anything about the MOA precision disconnector. Have you installed it on your M3000. Where do you put the trigger screw. Does it help.
The screw goes underneath the little beak in front of the pivot pin. By itself, the adjustment screw is useless. In conjunction with a second screw to pre-stage the trigger and reduce creep, it allows the disconnector to back off so you don't get a mechanical lock. It is purely for shortening the reset distance so the disconnector can reset when the trigger travel has been reduced. If you are not planning on adding a pre-travel screw, then don't bother with a disconnector screw. It is a drop-in part with a slightly shorter reset than the factory part if you install it as-is.
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I know I'm in the minority but it bugs me when the slide cuts and the lightening don't line up such as in the last picture you posted. If I were to do a Limited build it would have slide cuts all the way through with a fluted barrel. Similar to this:
Dang, that is a sexy lookin pistol. I like the cuts and the fluting. Very cool!
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Ive been following this thread for a long time. This may be a bad idea and I may get flamed for brining it up .BUT, considering the reliability you can achieve from an MOA worked over edition, has anyone every cut one of these down to 18.5 inches ? I was thinking about doing it and using this for a home defense shot gun. what problems might this cause? should I just use the 22 inch model and call it good?
I wasn't even aware Stoeger makes a 22" M3000. One might be nice to have at Horner matches.
The M3000 is only available in 24, 26, and 28" barrel lengths. I am not aware of anyone cutting one down to 18.5, but there is no reason it can't be done. The only thing you lose is the ability to use a choke. It may be worth looking at the 3 barrel lengths to see which one has the vent-rib base in the right spot for an 18.5 inch cut. You don't want the end of the rib dangling unsupported.
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60177 is the correct number. In stock at Midway USA as of today.
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I check group size and location with all chokes from skeet to mod, so I know what chokes I can run on slug stages. I shoot better slug groups from a supported offhand position (V-Tac wall) than I do off sandbags. If it groups more than 6" at 100, I check the bore for plastic wad fouling.
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I failed to mention that I usually shoot open division, and the optic and giant mag means the pistol takes up a lot of belt space on the right side. I could maybe fit one dual quad in front of the holster, but that would mean loading some right handed and some left. I am not saying it won't work, just saying that it is the way I set my belt up.
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A regular 3/32 punch is about ideal. You don't want a tight fit in the hole, you want to be able to angle it to make maximum contact with the end of the pin. It is a solid pin, so a roll pin punch is not helpful
getting sick before a match
in What I Hate
Posted
Mixture of adrenaline and Nyquil is good stuff. All the hype without the shakes. You should try it