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Posts posted by Brassaholic13
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The wait is killing me. Just got 5000 primers in, got cases, bullets, and powder. ready to go. Thanks for the replies. I'll let you know my progress when it gets here. Going to start with 40 for a awhile, then try different calibers. I really want to load 556 too, but it seams there is a lot of steps and issues with reloading 556. Is is better to start with non military brass to avoid all the primer issues??
Thanks,
Hornady makes a decent manual primer pocket trimmer for cheap. Worth your while unless doing large quantities of brass, then it gets old quick.
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/804809/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-package?cm_vc=ProductFinding
Or you can just buy the tips, like I did, and use a drill on low speed.
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I'm prodding Forcht now to come up with a longer stroke model... Modding the press is really no big deal. How many frames have you ever heard of that failed on the 1050? In reality, the entire center could be cut out of the bottom. The bolts would hold it in place to keep the frame from trying to spread.
I'd like to see Forcht cut out the bottom center, make a spacer for under the press to increase eccentric to table clearance, then use a bigger eccentric to increase stroke. That would be the bomb-diggity.
The downside to the Mark7 is that it will never see the speeds that the Forcht can achieve. There's simply too much mass for a small stepper motor to control. I'm guessing they've tested that already and found that 1800 is the limit.
On the 650XL auto-drive that I made, based loosely on the PW auto-drive, I can tell you that the limits due to inertia and weight are 2500...again, thats on a 650 which doesn't have the mass the 1050 does.
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No clue what the Spolar would be worth used, but honestly, the Forcht is going to be tough to beat for a 1050, especially in the new 3-phase version.
Or not so tough... http://www.markvii-loading.com/
Thats neat... Will have to see what comes of it this April when it's released.
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I do have a spolar hydraulic system, had it hooked up to my PW, worked great. Now I'm wondering if it work with a 1050. Will Dixie today.
Sold my shotgun equipment, Just curious if anyone may have a 1050 or a 650 for sale.
Thanks Jim
No clue what the Spolar would be worth used, but honestly, the Forcht is going to be tough to beat for a 1050, especially in the new 3-phase version.
Just the noise from that hydraulic pump would be enough to make me want to ditch the Spolar.
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Anything can be made to fit. Do you already have one that you're wanting to adapt?
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When for the 1050 heads?
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Here's the way I did mine, which Craig added the cool factor to on his. It's just a simple continuity check, there's no amperage and very low voltage going through it when the pin hits the music wire.
Mine is nothing more than a Delrin plug that I machined to fit the hole above the primer station. It is countersunk underneath to allow for the longer shells. I drilled/tapped a hole in the tool head to retain it in place, as I noticed it was wanting to spin occasionally.
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There's also the Dlask, but it's getting some mixed reviews... One guy says it's slick as snot, another says it's gritty as sand... Truth is somewhere in between?
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Craig and I had a long discussion about him coming out with a VFD drive. If you notice, he's got my decapping pin detector setup in a billet bracket.
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Any opinions on the GunCraft or Fusion triggers for Para?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261708667597
http://www.dawsonprecision.com/ProductDetail.jsp?LISTID=80000C42-1388518150
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Thats probably because of the crappy mag laws like the NY Safe act. Most of the stuff I'm seeing on GunBroker is either 10 rounds, or labelled "pre-ban"
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You can always use the standards that come with micrometer sets to check them throughout their range. Even with "good" ones you want to make sure they are measuring correctly from time to time.
The electronics they use in the HF ones has changed over time. I have one set that will turn off the LCD after a few min and it powers back on with any movement of the slide. Don't know if it is an old one or newer version though.
The top one looks like the one I got from Brian. It powers on with slide movement. When it shuts off it comes back on with same reading as when it shut off. Says Whitworth on the back.
You can buy that top one from Ebay for about $12.00 shipped.
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What kills the battery in the caliper is usually not the use, but forgetting to turn it OFF at the end. I try to be religious about turning it off right after each measurement, otherwise you definitely forget it. I am not sure why they don't have automatic turn off feature.
The ones I got from Brian turn off by themselves.
As long as they don't reset to zero, that's a plus. If they reset to zero, that's a pain in the butt.
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Actually, from my experience, what defines a good caliper from bad is the precision in which the two pieces fit together. If the center channel is a sloppy fit, you can't get consistent, repeatable, readings. The readings you do get, may or may not be accurate due to the slop in the calipers.
My dad has a $12.00 pair of calipers from Ebay, and sometimes they will match my Mitutoyo. It just depends how many times you want to open/close the cheap calipers to finally get that correct reading.
The electronics, I suspect, are all of the same technology.
I never did understand why they couldn't make a cheap-ER solar cell caliper. It's not like it's new technology. We've had solar calculators for how long now?
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The rod with the pointy tip that rides on the plastic case feed can also make some noise and wear into the case feeder as well. (the name escapes me)
It seems to me, that the plastics on the machine don´t like oil very much.
I´ve oiled the case inserter and it lost some material on its ramp...
Use light grease. I prefer this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-Synthetic-Syncolon-Lubricant/dp/B000XBH9HI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420597165&sr=8-1&keywords=super+lube
It's not petroleum based.
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DSQQSAE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I would think that would be more effective than a circuit breaker. Use a microswitch to reset the timer when it comes back to get another case. If it doesn't return in time, it gets shut off.
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You might consider one of these
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Thanks... Also found someone selling John Mason Co parts on Ebay? Sent them an e-mail asking if MIM, Cast, or billet cnc. I'm going to guess cast. Did the same for Fusion last night.
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Found Gun Craft, and some seller on Ebay selling John Mason Co parts.
Any place else to look for these three parts? Would prefer billet, will accept cast, hate MIM.
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I buy used micrometers,calipers, and measuring standards on Ebay. If there's an issue, I'll send them in. So far, never had an issue and I've saved thousands over buying new.
Here's the best article you will ever read on caliper purchases: http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/greatest-hits-links/best-micrometers-calipers-buy-110651/
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Mitutoyo. Everything else is inferior.
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Spolar Hydraulics---1050
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted · Edited by Brassaholic13
Well, for double you can buy a CamDex to do pistol I believe... Aren't they in the $10k range? Camdex does more than double of the Mark7 in speed.
For a CamDex to do Rifle its like $75k?
Or was that Ammoload... I forget.