Brassaholic13
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Posts posted by Brassaholic13
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Harbor Freight is what you're after.
Once you start wet tumbling, you'll never go back.
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Nice.
What is the SDR number on those pipes? I have green sewer pipe I got for free that has belled ends on it and I can't find any fittings that will fit it. I ended up using internal test plugs.
Schedule 30 sever pipe Im betting because its green. Schedule 40 is nearly always white.
Just cut the bells off, get the proper fittings. Check with local excavating companies if going local.
Very nice Brassaholic. How many pounds of media per drum?
15 lbs of media, 25 lbs of brass. 4 gallons of water.
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My tumbling volume needs continue to grow with my business. Here's the latest iteration.
The drums are 20" x 8" sewer pipe (plus caps), which with water/soap/pins/brass weigh about 70 lbs each.
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If I were to buy one used, I'd want the seller to break it down and take photos (if I can't inspect in person) of the ram and where the ram rides in the casting. Galling can occur on the ram if it's not lubed regularly and well.
That is really the only major expense to be concerned about with the 1050. The casting is around $700 to replace. Not sure what they charge for a ram, but it can't be cheap either.
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At this point, I really don't care.
I've already got a drawing made up and a quote on the bottom of the collator. Local water jet shop is only going to charge me $21.60/ea for 3 collator plate bases if I supply materials. I'll have them made from 3/8 6061 aluminum. I'll make the bowl from 1/16" sheet metal and TIG weld it to the base. The base plates will be drilled for a Dayton 12V DC motor at 9 RPM that I will control with a PWM. Even if I can't run it any faster, it'll still have near double the torque of the POS 4RPM Dayton motor Dillon uses.
From there, it's only a matter of welding a square tube spud to the bowl base, and making the drop tube/switch mount. Unlike Dillon, I'll make the drop tube on the collator a few thousandths smaller than the actual clear poly tube so that cases won't get stuck on the ledge at the transition.
Will still use the Hornady/Dillon collator plates.
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why the lube on pistol brass? I've never used any, and didn't know I needed any
On the 1,200 round video, what is the blue thing in front of the bullet feeder?
Which bullet bullet feeder?
Really, the only thing that needs lubing is the inside of the case mouths. This is so when the expander interfaces with the case, that there's no jerking action as the expander retreats when the ram is lowered.
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I just sent out an RFQ to a local water jet company to cut some plates for me. 3/8" thick 6061, 11.750" diameter with a 1.500" through hole and 4 satellite holes around the through hole.
If the price is reasonable, I'll be making my own collator to use the Dillon plates. Tired of screwing with this. When my equipment runs better than the collator feeding it, that's just wrong.
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That is not what that funnel is for. That funnel sits inside of the AT500 powder die so that you can drop powder through it. I don't know why they would have sent it to you for the case feeder.
I dont either, but the tech guy on the phone said it would cure the issue, and it hasn't.
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The carbide insert is limited by the tool holder. You simply can't go bigger without making a new mandrel.
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That metal tab needs pushed over to block the second drop hole
Sarge.. could you post a picture of how you have this?
tia.. Dave
From the factory it was to the left all the way. Near as I can tell there is no way I could get two to fall through but it will hang up is two get in there. I recreated it by placing a few pieces of brass. The other pic is how I have it slid over so they don't occasionally hang up.
The issue is not that they hang up with 9mm/.380. The issue is that a third case will stack between two cases in the collator plate, or a second case will ride on top of a case in the collator plate. When this happens, the case drops slightly crooked, and then hits sideways in the drop funnel, jamming the collator. Brass then stacks up and rains over the top.
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A suggestion for those inclined. I posted this video on another thread but if you jump to 1:46 you can see a led beam break sensor that I rigged up to a power relay that cuts power if the beam is obscured for more than 3 sec.
I have these sorts of jams often with 9mm processing military brass. This works great. If the hopper fills and jams then the beam break will cut power to the case sorter and keep you from raining shells all over the place
Jump to 1:46 to see the sensor
Neat, but we shouldn't have to band aid sensors to fix a design issue.
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That metal tab needs pushed over to block the second drop hole
The tab CAN NOT be pushed over. The damn black plastic funnel (Dillon's solution) is blocking the door!
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http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=207537&hl=%2Bindex+%2Bring#entry2306621
Post #10.
btw, ring breaks either from dirt buildup if you've never cleaned it, or via primer pull back when trying to index after decapping.
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So, a while back, I posted this video:
People were asking what the switch was, to which I replied "It's checking for case insertion issues", which do happen from time to time. A bit after posting the video, a case fell out, rolled around, and farked the switch lever. I ripped off the switch, knowing it wasn't going to work in the long run.
So, always seeking to build a better mouse trap, I came up with this, which has been working outstandingly.
I thought I would share for anyone else who is using an auto-drive with VFD.
It's just a simple continuity check. The press is grounded, and if the error detection circuit is completed by any part of the case touching the spring, the VFD stops.
I need to find some sort of nicer looking connector to replace the ugly solder joint.
Yes, I could have used a smaller gauge wire, but this wire was handy and I have a bunch of it.
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Just means more tools. I like to keep them all 1"Set the sizer to just kiss the plate when handle is all the way down. You should toss the LEE ring and use Dillon rings. And you will probably want to put it underneath the tool head
Actually, the Lee nuts work just fine... or can... Ditch the o-ring and turn the nut upside down. Fits on top of the tool head just fine.
Depends how often you go adjusting them I 'spose.
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Lighter fluid as substitute.
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Set the sizer to just kiss the plate when handle is all the way down. You should toss the LEE ring and use Dillon rings. And you will probably want to put it underneath the tool head
Actually, the Lee nuts work just fine... or can... Ditch the o-ring and turn the nut upside down. Fits on top of the tool head just fine.
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A guy with a lot of experience made the sizing/depriming die contact the baseplate before the handle hits bottom. This was to maximize the amount of case length sizing as much as possible. Only about a 1/2 inch of handle travel was possible after hitting the die.
I think this is what is being discussed.
I accomplish the same by having the sizing die just kiss the plate when the handle is all the way down. Plus I use a die that is designed to size lower. Having a half inch of pull left after solid contact with the plate is a good way to break the lower end of the press.
Totally agree. I'm not a believer in "cam over" on the press linkage. Either it's hitting the shell plate or not. Once the die hits the shell plate, you're not going to gain anything other than fatigue stressing the press parts.
I usually modify my dies with my lathe. I hate the huge bell some of them have, and as such shorten the die by 0.050" and put my own radius on the die.
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Making one of these, eh?
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This is the motor ID I have sent to others looking for a 3ph motor that would work.
They were cheap until Brassaholic seemed to buy alll that were available but I think he started relisting some he bought so as they roll in you can get good deals again.
They sell cheap because they are listed as 480V motors but can be wired low voltage too.
Sorry about the upside down pick, what I had in my phone.
Thanks for the help. For the most part, we plan to buy parts and build. Unfortunately, neither of us have a mill or cnc machine to do any custom fabrication. However, I am able to do all of the programming/dev myself. I've been looking into larger stepper motors and am beginning to think that this may be the way to go for my own personal skill set.
What amount of torque would I be looking to hit? With the cheaper stepper options, what level of gear reduction would I be looking for?
A couple of sub-$300 options:
https://www.anaheimautomation.com//products/stepper/stepper-motor-item.php?sID=70&pt=i&tID=75&cID=19
https://www.anaheimautomation.com//products/stepper/stepper-motor-item.php?sID=16&pt=i&tID=75&cID=19
This is a little pricey, but it's a brand new motor, not old surplus. I've got two of these, in a 50:1 ratio, and they work great.
The 60:1 would just take a little more overdrive on the Forcht.
As far as HP required. All my stuff runs off 1/4 hp, but I'm fairly certain that 1/8 would suffice.
ETA: The last motor I bought was rated at 1.4 Ft Lbs before the gear reduction (50:1). So 70 Ft Lbs doesn't even hesitate. Use a fish hanging scale and attach it to your press and cycle it with the most difficult operation. See how much pressure is required 1 foot out from the pivot point. That will be your answer as to power required.
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This is the motor ID I have sent to others looking for a 3ph motor that would work.
They were cheap until Brassaholic seemed to buy alll that were available but I think he started relisting some he bought so as they roll in you can get good deals again.
They sell cheap because they are listed as 480V motors but can be wired low voltage too.
Sorry about the upside down pick, what I had in my phone.
I used all but one, which I sold to another reloader for what I paid for it, which was $100 shipped.
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Found another one, Mark7 reloading, $2,549. Belt driven.
At least they were smarter than the guys with the ammobot. A belt these days is way better than a chain. The Gates Polychain belts we run on the blown alky drag cars do not stretch. Looks like Mark7 might be using a stepper motor along with a gear reduction unit.
ETA: Keep in mind that $2549 is for the auto-drive, and doesn't include the press.
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Same principle, and a little cheaper, but nothing for pistol.
Tumbler advice
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
It's not much more work at all. The only extra steps are to rinse the soapy water off and lay it on a towel to dry.
I vibratory tumbled for decades, until I finally broke down a year or so ago and built a wet tumbler. Will NEVER go back to dry, and have never heard anyone who wet tumbles say differently.