Brassaholic13
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Posts posted by Brassaholic13
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Well, they arrived today. Two pin system, one wire soldered to each pin. Looks like it would be easy enough to re-wire it to a std 3.5mm jack and skip the $50.00 stereo cable.
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Like I said, you could have picked them up from the local Fastenal assuming you have one nearby.
There isn't one real close to where I live. Plus I have an account with MM-C. They are good people!
I concur... I buy from them whenever I can!
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Like I said, you could have picked them up from the local Fastenal assuming you have one nearby.
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Mine bent and I left it that way, lol.
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Interesting, do you think this new bolt will last longer ?
Well, wouldn't know. I've got a few hundred thousand rounds on my original shoulder bolt for the .223 conversion kit. How many rounds are they supposed to last?
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Not specialty at all. Fastenal has them by the bag of 100 for like $5.00.
Now, what's interesting, is that I just bought a new conversion kit for my 1050... The new kit has a recessed, longer shoulder bolt that no longer puts stress on the intersection of the threads/shoulder.
Can you share what conversion kit ?
Well, up until I sold my auto-drive for my 650, the 1050 was rifle only. So I just picked up .45 ACP, .38/.357, 9mm, and .40 S&W. So far, the only I opened was .45 ACP and it had the longer bolt. Came from Grafs in Mexico, MO.
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Para is being absorbed by Remington, in case you didn't know Kian. The longevity of Para is unknown, and you would be best to call them before waiting for the website's Pro Shop to re-open. You may find the website forwarded to a Remington domain at any time.
Travis Tomasie and Gabby are both part of Team Remington now.
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get the gel cups too. they increase comfort massively and reduce NRR.
Probably the biggest downside for the peltors for you is if you want to plug in your MP3 player you have to buy an adapter cable and it's about $20 from memory. I've never needed it but you might want it. The gel cups are worth every penny of the $50 though.
Well SOB... I didn't see that specialty plug. Why the hell don't they just charge more for the darn headphones and include it?
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Not specialty at all. Fastenal has them by the bag of 100 for like $5.00.
Now, what's interesting, is that I just bought a new conversion kit for my 1050... The new kit has a recessed, longer shoulder bolt that no longer puts stress on the intersection of the threads/shoulder.
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http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000Q04MRG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Welp, just ordered a set last night. Used some Amazon points and got them for half price. Should be here Thursday. Will report back.
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I know what Dillon says, but in over 500k rounds on my 650 and counting, I've NEVER used grease there. Yes, on .40 S&W I have to go a bit slower, but I've found that filing and polishing the feed ramps on the station 1 guide works like a charm. For me, 45 ACP and .38/.357 are the two best running calibers on my 650, followed by 9mm and finally .40.
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I cut my brass first then size and trim. Bad neck/no neck (blanks) no difference in the process.
The time problem is the reason for automation. It doesn't really matter if the machine will only do 1200/hr if the operator only spends a fraction of that hour starting it, keeping collators full and moving brass to the next operation.
When automation is at its best all operations are preformed with little input from humans.
To put it another way, if you had to keep an eye on the ice maker in your fridge to make sure it was doing its job, it wouldn't be worth having.
When you can control every case that you get from the military, to ensure that the head has no burrs on it and feeds absolutely perfectly every time into the shell plate, let me know and I'll buy from your source.
Until then whether it's 500/hr, or 2500/hr, it's something that will cause a jam. When it's 2500/hr, you just run into those jams sooner than later.
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Manufacturing .300 blackout isn't all that simple, unless you're starting from new 5.56 or .223 cases. Think of all the cases you've seen over the years with garbage necks. Yes, those can be turned into .300 blk, so long as there's no damage to the case body. So here goes...
Assuming you've got your stuff turned up, you can run 2500 pieces an hour with ZERO jams, that's perfection, which never occurs in processing, even on a 1050.
You take your NEW or GOOD 5.56/.223 brass and chuck it into the machine for decap/swage/rough cut. 2500 pieces, one hour... Then, you go back a second time through the machine and final trim and final size, now you're down to 1250 rounds per hour.
Now, if you're salvaging the cases with bad necks but good bodies, the process changes a bit. Because the neck is beat up, you can't get your decapping pin in the neck. So, you first run it through the press to rough cut it and expose the primer. 2500 pieces. A second pass will then decap/swage. 1250 pieces/hr net. Finally, a third pass final trims and sizes...834/hr.
Can you do it in less steps? Probably... Can you do it consistently right in less steps? Not likely. So to convert 2500 pieces of good brass, it's 2 hours work with no jams. To convert 2500 pieces from brass salvaged (which requires hand sorting not described above), 3 hours of work, no jams.
Now, let's add in some more labor, say 30 minutes to take the time to load the tumbler, empty the tumbler, and rinse the brass, plus lay it out on the towel. I can do about 18 lbs per tumbler load.
Starting to see yet where the price comes from? Most shops will charge 50-60/hr in labor to survive, thanks to the gubement taxing the hell out of everything. When you're talking 2.5-3.5 hours to make 2500 pieces you're between $125-$175 in labor alone for 2500 pieces ($50-$70/1k), plus the raw cost of the brass, plus fixed and variable overhead costs.
For those who process brass for a living, it's a business. It's not done as a hobby. You guys can do it for a hobby because you have the spare time to be able to. Some others don't have the time or may not have the knowledge, or the time to learn, or hate the processing part, which is why there's a market for .300 blk and other processed brass.
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Thats two votes for jughead HL Impact Sports... Will try a set for sure.
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Again, I'm not using these for shooting. I'm using them while I work doing brass processing. The noise of a 6HP shop vac a a 2.25HP Bosch Router motor are deafening over time. I need something I can wear for 6+ hour stints, every day.
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I were a 7 1/2 hat have slightly above average size ear lobes and use these http://www.midwayusa.com/product/671923/howard-leight-impact-sport-electronic-earmuffs-nrr-22-db-green
You get decent noise canceling and the ability to plug your portable music in as well.
Thanks, will try those.
Nice I'm sure, but not spending that much on hearing protection.
And trust me. If you have big ears they will hurt.
Which?
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I were a 7 1/2 hat have slightly above average size ear lobes and use these http://www.midwayusa.com/product/671923/howard-leight-impact-sport-electronic-earmuffs-nrr-22-db-green
You get decent noise canceling and the ability to plug your portable music in as well.
Thanks, will try those.
Nice I'm sure, but not spending that much on hearing protection.
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A friend wears these and has a large head. http://www.envirosafetyproducts.com/peltor-earmuffs-h10a.htmlThey also have a much better noise rating then the ones you've got. Also, why not get a good pair of electronic ear pugs? Very comfortable and you can hear range commands and talk comfortably.
I have a phobia about things in my ears. Had surgery as a child, and they didn't put me fully to sleep while they operated on my eardrums. I was conscious, but paralyzed.
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I've got the head size of Reagan, and the damn ears of Obama.
Just bought a set of these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004U4A5RU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nice being able to listen to music while protecting my hearing during brass processing... But after about 30 minutes my head and ears start to hurt. Things just aren't big enough to fit over the crown of my head, and if I cant them backwards off the crown, then they put my ears in a bind.
Who makes some ear protection for us jugheads?
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Read the reviews. I have one. Works great, and the weighs repeat. It's sensitive enough that you will want a breeze shield and a vibration isolator. I use a 1" piece of memory foam under it.
I had a GemPro 250 for a few days. It was garbage and went back.
There's the same scale. Read the top helpful review. That's what sold me on trying it.
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I have a better idea... Use your presses enough and you don't need a cover!
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I'd go crazy if I had to sort brass like that.
LOL, I hear you Brassoholic... We're from completely different worlds with regard to processing brass but even brass I might buy from you would still go through this process to spot any odd calibers like .380 lurking in a batch of brass. Again I primarily use this method to quickly count out the number of pistol cases I'm planning on reloading on a given session. So I might count out 600 cases and load six tubes of primers... when the last case hits the platform, it meets the last primer and I'm done.
JMorris has a larger version of what I built. His sorts all calibers. I built mine specifically to sort .380 from 9mm. You can build one pretty darn cheaply. In fact, you could probably make one with a drill press and some hand taps.
Use a Dillon collator to feed it. When I pick up four or five 5-gallon buckets of 9mm..... OMG, I can't imagine not having a machine to do it for me. The labor hours would kill any profits to be had.
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Okay, so I watched your video and I see the increase in speed. However, I notice that you have all of the other stations down to smooth running. I still struggle with some aspects, such as a case upside down or a primer not seating that easily. I suspect that you have worked on this by keeping cartridge cases uniform and making sure no military crimped stuff is in there, right?
Thank you for making those videos and I agree: It is important to start slow. I have only about 6,000 rounds through my machine for .223 and about 2,000 rounds of 9mm. I still feel like I am just learning, so am open to suggestions. I like a lot of the other mods you have put on, like the light. Any way you can share where you got that? I can see (no pun intended) where this is very helpful in removing the #3 station powder check. I also like how well you have secured your unit. I have my secured to the wall, but it does not seem as firm and solid as your unit. Any suggestions there as well?
You have a very nice setup. If people were to watch that video, they would all buy a XL650.
As others mentioned my lighting is by Inline Fabrication.
Having the press securely bolted to the bench and securing the case feeder has eliminated cases flipping. I mounted a rigid shelf behind the case feeder and secured the case feeder as high as possible to it. I've seen people use various brackets to secure the case feeder to a wall and I've even seen people mount the case feeder directly to bench. Any of these methods will ensure that you case feeder doesn't "sway" and stays rock solid while you're loading.
I use a Dillon Super Swage 600 to deal with crimped brass. Again, after you handle enough brass you'll be able to quickly spot head stamps that need to be swaged. I only have two videos on YouTube. The other video shows how I sort out .380 cases from 9mm. This method can also be used for one last quick look at the head stamps before they go into the press. The truth of the matter is that I check head stamps by grabbing a few with my hand and pulling out any cases that need to be swaged. I largely use this method for ensuring all cases are the correct caliber and to quickly count out how many cases I'm getting ready to load. Could be helpful so here's a link to that video:
I'd go crazy if I had to sort brass like that.
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I'm prodding Forcht now to come up with a longer stroke model... Modding the press is really no big deal. How many frames have you ever heard of that failed on the 1050? In reality, the entire center could be cut out of the bottom. The bolts would hold it in place to keep the frame from trying to spread.
I'd like to see Forcht cut out the bottom center, make a spacer for under the press to increase eccentric to table clearance, then use a bigger eccentric to increase stroke. That would be the bomb-diggity.
The downside to the Mark7 is that it will never see the speeds that the Forcht can achieve. There's simply too much mass for a small stepper motor to control. I'm guessing they've tested that already and found that 1800 is the limit.
On the 650XL auto-drive that I made, based loosely on the PW auto-drive, I can tell you that the limits due to inertia and weight are 2500...again, thats on a 650 which doesn't have the mass the 1050 does.
I never said modding the press frame was a big deal. What I mean is modifying the press and shorten the stroke making it impossible to process/load 308 and very difficult to process/load 223/556 at high speed. I am NOT saying the Forcht Auto drive is not the best out there at the moment. It is to me and I like it.
This is true, you did not say it was a big deal. However, generally speaking, when someone says "The NO mods to the press" and emphasizes "NO" with capital letters, that's an implication of a big deal.
What difficulties specifically are you having with high speed 5.56, and what do you consider high speed in rounds per hour? I'm running at 2500, which is about all the collator can keep up with. If the collator filled EVERY slot EVERY time it only feeds 5.56 at 2880. In fact, I just ordered a Dayton 8.75 motor (12V DC) and a PWM to start experimenting with increasing collator feed rates.
Homemade Stainless Steel Tumbler
in General Reloading
Posted
No question, but a suggestion. Cut those threads off flush with the nuts. They will scar the hell out of your brass. I'm also hoping your agitators are plastic and not metal. The best thing to use as an agitator is PVC plumbing pipe ripped in half by a table saw.