Brassaholic13
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Posts posted by Brassaholic13
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carbidedepot.com
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so, I'm getting too much wobble at station 1 using the "D" 14223 adapter for 32 H&R Mag for .300 Blackout
can anyone confirm that the adapter "3" 14227 for .38 super comp being a better choice ?
The correct one to use is the same for .223 if you are loading .300 blk.
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Gary, at Dillon says " if the case feeder you have has a rectangular funnel, its the old style, If it is shaped just like a funnel then you need a black funnel to insert to stop the waterfall.
Whiskey....Tango...Foxtrot.
Dillon reads these forums. They have seen no less than two threads in the past two weeks, and I know I've seen more threads discussing it in the past year. Why the hell did they not say they have that available!?!?!?!?!?!?
ETA: What's the damn p/n on that?
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I guess I'm rather confused as to why you'd be trimming during loading anyhow. Just risk the chance of brass swarf dropping into the shell casing, which DOES happen.
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How in the world would you think that brass swarf would hurt a HSS die?
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You could always buy a 3D printer and design/prototype your own that would allow you to use dies on either side. Then, start selling them on FleaBay to pay off your printer.
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The OEM Dillon trimmer attachment takes up so much space, I can't get dies next to it... So, I've just been duct taping the vacuum hose onto the trimmer so I can get dies in the stations next to the trimmer. Any ideas/mods etc?
You really can't use dies in the stations beside the trim die/trimmer station.
^^^ this...unless you make or jury rig your own vacuum head.
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I found both trimmer designs woefully inadequate for my needs, as I produce on a commercial level. Thus, I came up with this solution.
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How is trimming 300 Blackout brass more stressful than trimming .223 brass?
You're only removing up to 0.030" when trimming .223. When you convert, you're removing 0.400"+
Bearings, unless designed for side loading (I forget the term) won't stand up to it, and will fail prematurely. Apparently the 1500 has bearings rated for higher side loading than the 1200.
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They are probably going to tell him he didn't have the stroke setup right and it was overstroking, causing the arm to flex and break due to fatigue.
In reality, it's poor design geometry that caused it to fail.
If you want to fix it to work properly, envision this.
1. A sleeve over the crank where the arm attaches.
2. A spud welded to that sleeve with a milled slot and cross hole in the end of the spud. This is where the heim joint (spherical rod end) would attach.
3. To locate the sleeve in the proper position, drill a hole in the sleeve and put a pin through it into the stock hole where the old crank arm goes.
4. The spud should be aligned to where the middle of the stroke is vertical.
5. From there, you can ditch that stupid bent arm they use and replace it with a straight arm.
6. You may have to lower the motor, because PW mounts it too high.
I based my 650 auto drive loosely on their design, but without their inherent design flaws relating to geometry.
The important things to note in the video is the vertical spud that operates the crank going through the pillow blocks, as well as the spud length and relationship to motor height.
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http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2015/02/foghorn/breaking-remington-kills-para-usa-brand/
Apparently the Warthog and some other double stacks will live on.
I would like to see them breath life into the TT P-16
I'd like to see them bring back the P12/13 for CCW, optioned like the current Elite series, or old Limited series.
I've been slowly upgrading my stainless P12 to Elite/Limited options.
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http://www.thetruthaboutguns.com/2015/02/foghorn/breaking-remington-kills-para-usa-brand/
Apparently the Warthog and some other double stacks will live on.
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That's pretty much the same for any business though. Lifetime warranties only extend to the life of the company. Remington, if you believe them, has stated that they are honoring the Para warranties. Never had any issues with my Rem 700, so I dont know how good/bad the Remington service is. It can't be any worse than Para, who was known to take up to several months to fix a pistol.
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Odd, the 1-3/4" came out on the money, but the 3-3/8" dimension measures as 3-1/4"
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I've been talking to Rick Koskela. He's the guy that invented Mr. Bulletfeeder. His website is http://www.mrbulletfeeder.biz/. Rick is the real deal.
Support Rick and buy direct!
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There is a Mr BF Jr thats a lot cheaper and holds 100 bullets before you have to reload it. That way you can sync bullets and primers. Just throwing that out there.
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Assuming you have a Google email address, go to Google drive and upload it there. Make it public and create a link back to here. If you'd like you can e-mail it to me and I'll do it for you on my Gdrive acct.
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Yes, Small Rifle.
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Do NOT use any washers. Move the adjustable tab on the collator case drop opening to the right and use a 5/32" allen wrench to hold it there. You won't have any further issues.
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So if I purchase one for 40 cal pistol. Will it work on .45 cal or do I need to buy another? Thanks
They are caliber specific.
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I have this problem about once per 9mm loading session. Could be related to my using a LARGE collator plate instead of the correct SMALL size. I will give this a shot and see if it helps.
Brassaholic: Would you mind posting another photo showing where exactly the bolt hole is drilled? Also, for switching between different calibers (9mm, .40, .45, .223), could I just attach the bolt further above the collator plate (to clear the .223) then run a longer zip tie?
Thanks for the tip.
Sure. It doesn't have to be really precise. I just picked a location that looked like it would work and tried it. I don't think you'd have to change the bolt location. Just have a few different zip ties on hand and swap them out. Maybe use different colored zip ties for different calibers. Clearing 223 isn't an issue, it doesn't run vertical. Just remove it altogether for rifle.
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb199/onebadgmc/IMG_0846_zps7d8a5e34.jpg
http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb199/onebadgmc/IMG_0847_zpsa565ada4.jpg
This is what you mean by waterfall right?
Precisely.
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Build4u, pure genius. Would you mind tracing that template and scanning it for a PDF file? There's no point in me re-inventing the wheel. Why Dillon doesn't address this for us is beyond me. We're not alone.
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MR BULLETT FEEDER ,IT IS THE ONLY 1
There can be only one. Buy direct from him. Rick will sell direct: http://www.mrbulletfeeder.biz/
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Congrats to you guys never having an issue.
motor recommendation for automation
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted · Edited by Brassaholic13
No clue on motor number, but if you buy Oriental brand name, you're going to pay a small fortune. For what you'll spend on that, you could buy any number of "other" brand motors for around $100-$120, probably less than a third of the cost of the Oriental.
Do yourself a favor. Get a 50:1 or 60:1 gear driven 3-phase motor (208-240VAC), and an Automation Direct GS1 or GS2. Total investment will be around $300.00 for motor and drive.
Oh, source to buy the motor... Ebay.