Brassaholic13
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Posts posted by Brassaholic13
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On 7/14/2017 at 5:31 PM, Smeeg said:
I figure if we can find a boring bar that works well for sub $50 then snag a used bosh routers for sub $100 off eBay we can get an awesome brass trimmer for less than a Dillon ?
Good luck with that. If you find one, let me know.
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Most likely, this will illustrate why they are breaking.
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Out of idle curiosity, how much is a unit like the one shown in the video in post #15 ???
Total investment of about $9k new.
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Dont know what you guys are talking about. My vibe works just fine with stainless pins.
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Well, I just hope that Mark7 includes a replacement link arm (p/n 11063) with their kit. Because it's already been well documented that manual operation will cause that link arm to fail. Dillon knows there's an issue, because they etch a date on every one they send out.
I also hope Mark7 has a means to detect full stroke on the press. That's the major downside of the Ponsness-Warren due to flex.
The Forcht may require modification to the press, but the modification done causes no harm to the press, and does not prevent it from being returned to manually operated if desired.
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search "mark7" from the main forum search. There's no less than 4 threads.
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Did you break the lower crank arm? p/n 11063
That, or the index pawl would be the first two places I'd look. If the index pawl's hole is wallowed out, it will cause inconsistent/erratic shell plate rotation.
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Welcome to the club to which Dillon denies an issue!
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Yes, identical. The only difference in the drop tube is length. 1050 is much longer, but can easily be cut....but then again, the drop tube doesn't come with the collator, it comes with the press.
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The 650 stuff to me is a little confusing as I am used to the 1050's which I have down to a science.
From this I would suggest you just get a few more 1050's and skip the learning curve.
The thought has crossed my mind.
Not that running or setting up a 650 would be confusing, just the purchasing of small parts since I have never dealt with a 650. 1050's were confusing at first too and I missed buying several important parts like the body die for the swage backup or the lock ring for said swage backup. I love paying $10 in shipping on a 95 cent lock ring. I think they call that an idiot tax.
No, I think it's called poor customer service and price gouging.
There's only a few parts that go bad on a 650, and they are warrantied for life. The index ring is the biggest issue. It's a weak part, and always breaks at the same point. You'd think a mechanical engineer could fix it, but apparently not. This part only breaks when primer pull back occurs and the shell plate tries to index. From there, the reversible plastic case slider activator (pistol/rifle) has some threaded inserts that tend to strip out. Those are really the only two issues with parts breakage. Keep springs in stock and you'll be ok. The case slide spring will be the most frequently replaced, followed by the spring that shuttles the case from the drop tube to the case slide.
However, before you spend your money on another press, you may want to consider an auto-drive for what you have.
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all I want is a way to separate 9mm and 38 super (would love to then further separate 38 super and 38 super comp but that's another day). but I don't think any of these plates will reliably distinguish between 9 and super.
My sorter will sort .380 from 9x19 from 38 super among others.
The most information on it is in this thread.
http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=11364&hl=+brass%20+sorting&page=2
What's the make/model of that collator?
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Oh puhlease... It works, and works great.
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Using the wrong primer tube in the primer magazine? If you use the large tube with small primers, it will allow them to kick sideways.
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I think they must have used the smaller tumbler that Harbor Freight offers (5lb?). Mine is a bit more "violent" until you get some brass in it. However, since it is the larger tumbler, you can go and go until the drop bucket is about 2/3 full.
I was about to sort 4 buckets of mixed brass, netting almost a full bucket of .45 ACP (shown in video) in less than 40 minutes. Hardly any of the brass stuck together since it was shaken so violently.
Now, on the second pass, using the .38/.357/.40/10mm shell plate, there were a fair more amount that were stuck together and had to be manually separated. I still have to finish one bucket of those yet before moving to the 9mm/.380/5.56 shell plate.
Hanging onto that thing is like mowing the lawn with the engine out of balance, lmao.
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That was so damn easy I'm shocked. Didn't even have to modify the tumbler. Was a simple unbolt and drill 5 holes in a bucket, then screw it all back together. Awesomesauce!!!!
ETA: This is the 18 lb tumbler from Harbor Freight.
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I am so making this today!!!
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That's neat, but not THAT neat.
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Maybe it's a typo? I can see it being worth 169.50?
ETA: It just appears to be a rod with a switch built into it, wired to an alarm. If the switch doesn't go all the way into the primer pocket, the alarm sounds.
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Save your money...
Been using this for several years after converting from the old oil scale.
Any issues with it being battery powered? Or is there a wall wart power pack you can buy?
No issues so far. No wall wart available. Only pesky thing about it is the auto-shut off after 2 mins. However, what I have found, is that it's extremely accurate, repeating measurements between on/off cycles. It's also VERY sensitive to ANY breeze. You can literally lightly blow air towards the scale and see it register weight.
Thanks. Id prefer a plug in unit. I wonder if this would be any better?
Try it and let us know. It has the same 0.02 grain resolution. It can't be any worse than the Chinese scales the big name ammo companies rebrand to their own.
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Save your money...
Been using this for several years after converting from the old oil scale.
Any issues with it being battery powered? Or is there a wall wart power pack you can buy?
No issues so far. No wall wart available. Only pesky thing about it is the auto-shut off after 2 mins. However, what I have found, is that it's extremely accurate, repeating measurements between on/off cycles. It's also VERY sensitive to ANY breeze. You can literally lightly blow air towards the scale and see it register weight.
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Save your money...
Been using this for several years after converting from the old oil scale.
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Yes, and maybe. Yes, you can bend the index dog. Maybe, but I don't think that's what you're seeing. If you bend the index dog, it will not index at all, consistently. You stated that yours is random. This leads me to believe that you have a flat spot worn on your brass roller, or possibly a binding issue elsewhere.
It takes a LOT of pressure to bend that index dog. Pressure that SHOULD be easily controlled by the clutch (and VFD if applicable). If you have Craig's older style clutch with the 2-screws, call him and order the newer style clutch with the center pressure adjustment nut ($125? I think). It is a much more refined clutch styled after the Dalton OSD that I use on my machines. I berated him on his older design until he finally relented and changed it.
The only time your fuseable link will fail, if you decide to keep it stock (See Ebay), is when primer pullback occurs, which is totally random and NOT 100% avoidable, especially with military brass.
With the upgraded clutch, proper setting, and the upgraded pawl from Ebay, you should be able to manage torque precisely enough that when primer pullback occurs, nothing bends/breaks and the machine simply stops.
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Almost $30 shipped for that little plastic piece.
Wondering how all the folks who take advantage of the caliber crossover between 9mm and .223 to get .380 manage. Obviously not worth resizing cases before feeding them, though that would eliminate the problem.
I'm with you on that one. It's a little unreasonable in cost, especially the $9.99 shipping charge for $0.25 worth of plastic.
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He wants the press because he wants it to be right when it goes out the door, plain and simple. I am speaking from experience, I acquired a 1050 with a Forcht conversion. I had to convert it to 40 from 9. In the "extras" I got was a mangled 9 shell plate.
I had no 1050 experience before this and unknowingly ran the press without the detent ball and ruined a brand new shell plate. Pretty much, my press was run hard and put away wet (and completely tore apart when I got it). I went through it and put it back together.
I ended up making a piece to change the timing of the primer system myself. My primer system is probably running on dead springs, but it works great. I am a machinist and like to tinker so the idea of making it work appealed to me. I never called Forcht and count the cost of the shell plate as a stubborn tax. I should probably call Forcht just to see how I should set up the "clutch".
My press now runs awesome and I have probably loaded 1500-2000 rounds on it the way it sits. That is only about 2 hours of very casual work. Don't let the youtube videos fool you...presses that run 2500+ rounds an hour aren't making ammo, they are processing brass. And most likely they aren't swaging primer pockets at that speed.
My drive is a 1200 rounds per hour setup and more than likely it will be 1000ish after I stop to refill components. But it makes consistent ammo and I can do it with a beer in one hand while listening to the radio and watching it run.
Yes, it is swaging the primer pocket at that speed. Sorry to disappoint. You are correct that they are only processing. As Craig Forcht has posted on Youtube, 2k is about the limit on loading .45 ACP. Each caliber will have it's own specific loading speed.
As for the Clutch, since you're a machinist. You have three choices, depending on what clutch yours has. Use the old style Forcht 2-screw clutch, which is a bear to tune, buy his new style center nut clutch, which he released on the VFD machines, or buy a surplus Dalton OSD 225 from Ebay and machine the ID to the size of the output shaft of your motor. I went with the Dalton because at that point, Craig had not released his new design...and he did so after I pestered the hell out of him.
F&FB honey badger trimmer boring bar alternative
in non-Dillon Reloading Equipment
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Does the bottom of your HB have 2 holes (for mounting) or 2 holes and 2 vents?